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Type 9 input shaft and VHPD crank spigot - incompatible?


Monte Busa

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OK, so a frustrating night:

I decided to to fix the Type 9 box that was previeoulsy in the car with my 1.4K Supersport engine onto the new engine and ran into what I believe is a problem (or two or three).

1.) Once I got the splines on the input shaft of the transmission to align with the clutch disc, the box slides in, but seems to bottom prematurely.  At first I thought it was just the locater dowels needing some persuading, but I'm starting to think the input shaft on the box is too long for my new VHPD crank spigot hole - I did some measurements, and it seems to be about 5mm or so too long.  Any pressure on the bellhousing to engine block fastening bolts and the engine and box stop turning freely - so I do thing it's an interference issue.  Is this possible?  if so, how much does the shaft need to be shortened?  If it matters, I'm running the CC dry sump tank / bellhousing.

2.) To get the clutch disc and input shaft to align, I tipped the engine on its nose on the engine stand while I scratched my head about it bottoming out.  Once I took the box back off, I noticed a bunch of oil had run onto the clutch pressure plate.  I don't think the oil is from the sump tank as it appears to have run down the input shaft.  I think I have an input shaft seal leak.  I'd love to just run without a gasket but use Loctite anearobic sealant...will this be a problem?  I guess this might be the good news of the night, as I can fix it now since the issue was caught before everything goes back together for good and into the car.  I haven't taken the front cover of the transmission yet, but I'm thinking of replacing the annular seal as well between the inout shaft and the throw out bearing sleeve / input cover.  Also, I did notice some oil weeping out of what appears to be a 1/2" or so diameter metal button / plug of some sort just above the main front cover - I've never seen a Type 9 with one, and I have no idea how I'd get it out aside from completely disassembling the box 

3.) Some of the gear oil got on the brand new AP clutch disc (cringe).  I washed it off immediately with acetone and brake clean - it appears that it hasn't soaked up any oil, but is it ruined?

Argh...

Aric

 

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The original 1.4 has a much longer input shaft.  Later engines  use a different crank wher the spigott bearing depth is less than the 1.4

Its a common problem and can be fixed by taking a cutting disc and shortening the shaft. I cant remember the exact difference but 6 to 8mm comes to mind.There will be something in the archive.

I suspect that you will be OK with the clutch plate

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I'm a bit surprised that a lot of oil came out unless the seal is missing or seriously mangled.The input shaft seal is fairly easy to replace by removing the CRB guide sleeve from the front of the gearbox casing.  Remember when re-mating the bellhousing with the casing to put a smear of sealant on both sides of the paper gasket around the selector shaft hole to stop oil weeping out.  Apart from the seal you'll need a couple of gaskets for the CRB sleeve and g/b casing to bellhousing.

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I did a bit more investigation, and it appears that the oil is all coming from around the metal button / plug pressed into the gearbox case just above the input shaft cover. It appears to have a knick in either it, or the case itself - enough to cause serious weeping around the plug, or drips every few seconds when the box is set on its nose. I guess I'll have to dig deeper. Hmm.
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That's not a plug, its the selector shaft which moves in and out as you change gear.  If it's flush you're in 1st, 3rd or 5th gear.  In all other gears, including neutral, it sticks out and goes into the blind hole on the back of the bellhousing.  You must apply sealant to the paper gasket between the box and bellhousing around the hole to stop the leak.

 

http://www.fastgrandad.co.uk/pictures/selector%20shaft.jpg
 

Paul

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