spiderlane Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 Installing the engine plumbing this weekend and have some queries about the correct installation method for the J Hose (from the head to the header) and the submarine fitting. For info, I have a Stack dash and the black plastic water manifold. 1. The J Hose I have widens at the end (of the short leg), to the extent that it's far to large for the fitting on the water manifold, so I've cut it back to where the diameter is a better fit. Is this right? 2. I've fitted the submarine into this hose so that the sender is near enough the 2 spade connectors on the loom. This seems a bit of a bodge since it's not supported properly. (I suppose I could cable tie it to the water rail) 3. Where the hose enters the heater, it interferes with the K&N air filter and is squashed up against it. The whole thing seems a very poor arrangement, however since it's not mentioned in the build manual, I'm not sure whether I've got it right. Any Duratec builders able to shed some light on the right way to do it? Here's a picture of how I have it at the moment. I can't say I'm all that happy with it, but is this as good as it gets? All assistance gratefully received. Cheers Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angus Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 Mark I cannot comment on 1) and 2), but for point 3): 3. Where the hose enters the heater, it interferes with the K&N air filter and is squashed up against it. yes unfortunately thats correct. You can improve things by adjusting the length of the two heater pipes - from memory I made mine a bit longer, but its not ideal. Angus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderlane Posted April 18, 2010 Author Share Posted April 18, 2010 Thanks Angus, looks like classic Caterham engineering then ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattie Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 Mark, I just taken a few pictures (bit dark I'm afraid) and put them on Flickr. This is how I did it, but with some rework by CC. They moved all of the loom and pipework downwards from where it was. I originally had the sub going over the top of the water manifold. What have you/CC done about grounding the sub/temp sender body? I assume it's still a single blade sender. I had to make an earth strap to earth the sub body, which I double nutted onto the stud on the sub. The sub is now zip tied onto the other hose that it runs past. Actually seems a reasonable solution, nice and solid. Edited to Add: It's worth noting that on mine I used another J or L hose from the sub body to the lower heater valve port. The elbow is at the sub end now. It does allow a bit more control over the hose path. Martyn R300GRR Edited by - Rattie on 18 Apr 2010 19:58:11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderlane Posted April 18, 2010 Author Share Posted April 18, 2010 Martyn Thanks for that. I think I have approximately the same layout that you ended up with. Regarding the earthing I have a Stack dash with the 2 blade sender which (I understand) means that that the sub doesn't need earthing. I certainly hope not, because we ground off the stud to reduce the risk of it abrading on anything nearby. I guess it's all a bit of a squeeze in that area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattie Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 Of course, Stack. You'll be fine then. Time for artful use of zip ties to encourage the hoses not to lean too hard on the K&N. Martyn R300GRR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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