Sump Removal K series

[Robs7]

After reading about the dreaded sump baffle I thought that after 5 yrs of ownership I'd better check. It's 10 yrs old and done 19k and had no problems.

Upon removing the sump studs the head of the long 8mm rear stud that fits horizontal sheared off. I bought a set of Boa bolt removers which reverse drills into the stud and taps itself in and is supposed to come out. But it just spins inside the stud. I have managed to drill a 6mm hole in the stud.

Does anybody know of a decent bolt remover or is there enough clearance inside the sump for it to slide forward to clear the stud to allow me to drop the sump?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm begining to think I should have left it alone as every time I've changed the oil it has been clear My usual motto has always been if it ain't broke don't fix it!!

 

[PAUL MARRIOTT]

There are two horizontal bolts - aren't there?? Ref clearance theres not a lot of sensitive stuff in the sump so why not have a gentle go and see what happens.

 

Have you read the latest thread about dumping the foam and cutting back the ledge formed by the gasket?

 

Paul M

[Bricol]

If you've got room, drill it 8mm.

 

If the 8mm bolt has snapped 'cos it's seized, then a smaller diater, tapered, easi-out thingie isn't going to have much luck either - and once you snap a hardened lump of steel in there, it gets a lot more complicated.

 

I can't remember how much room there is, but once you slide it forward and get a gap and can see the bolt shank, hacksaw it off through the gap, allowing you to get the sump off and work on it off the car.

 

Bri

[Robs7]

Thanks for your replies, I have tried whacking the sump forward but won't budge.I think there must be a burr where the stud broke and there's not much room to clear it.

I realise now that there was no spring washer fitted to the this one stud, which is probaly why it broke. All the others came out easy.

I'll have another go today

[Graham D]

Don't attempt to drill out the remainder of the bolt.

 

If there is a piece of the snapped stud remover still in there it will simply deflect the drill and you will damage the bell housing and/or sump.

 

IMHO Bricol's suggestion of trying to slide the sump forward and if necessary using a hacksaw is the way to go.

 

Good Luck,

 

Graham

[Robs7]

Fortunately there's no bit broken inside as the bolt remover I used didn't have enough grip and just spun. It only fits on the end of a drill and I wondered if there was a decent remover that fits a socket?

[Bricol]

There's no point.

 

If the 8mm bolt has sheared 'cos the threaded end is seized in the sump, then shoving something of a smaller diameter, and probably tapered, into the end of it, isn't going to have much luck in undoing it. You'll stand more chance of busting a 6mm removal tool inside it than you did of busting the original 8mm bolt.

 

If you can carry on drilling it out cleanly, then give it a go. If you wander off centre too far, then give up. However, I would suggest the bolts from bellhousing to sump don't do much for sideways location, more for bending between engine / gbox, so as long as there is still land for the bolt head to tighten down on . . .

 

Whack the sump sideways each way to break the gasket seal - probably will need a fairly heafty whack - heavy mallet, lump of wood, or a lump hammer with a protective bit of wood between it and the sump - then you should be able to get enough of a gap to get a hacksaw blade up and cut the bolt betwen sump and bellhousing. But double check you have indeed removed all the other retaining bolts.

 

Bri

[Robs7]

No luck, the sump moves apart from where the broken stud is. There's no chance of getting a drill straight down the line of the stud. I can see part of the head still attached to the stud which is preventing the sump being removed. By whacking it too hard will probably break the bell housing.

I've bolted it back and taken it for a test drive and fortunately there are no leaks.

I'm taking it to a the 7 workshop next week where it will be easier to work on in a pit as it's very difficult working under axle stands.

Thanks for all your advice I'll let you know how it goes.

 

rob elves