Rear suspension top mount

[Chris__]

I've been replacing my rear dampers, and to get top of the damper in where the allen bolt goes through it, I've had to bend the captive nut away slightly. Of course, now I've done that, I can't bend it back again for the allen bolt to bite. A lot easier to bend it the other way without the damper in there! How do I get it straight again? Am I missing an obvious tool, or method? Please tell me I haven't got to get the wheelarch off ☹️ I've tried molegrips, and I can't lever against anything in there because the only thing I can lean against is the ali fuel tank!

 

Many thanks yet again....

[Paul Deslandes]

The obvious way would be to remove the wing and then the triangular panel (if its fitted) so that you can get at the plate and bend it back. The panel is pop riveted in place so can be removed fairly easily and replaced afterwards. Otherwise, provided you haven't bent it too far, a long bolt of the correct thread with a reduced shank so that you can screw it in with the shank offset at an angle to the two holes' centre line. Once in, use the bolt to bend the plate until the bolt is central and the correct one can be screwed in. If you can get a suitable bolt, maybe a local engineering firm could reduce the shank for you for a few quid if you don't have a lathe.

 

Presumably the metal spacer tube in the shock top bush was a bit tight and should have been filed down a bit either side to fit.

 

 

[Chris__]

It was the bush itself that was stopping it going in. Didn't really want to shave the bush (ooer)... but if it won't do any harm, it may be the best way of sorting the situation

 

?

 

Unfortunately the bolt idea is a no go, there's no room to get in there in that way.

[Paul Deslandes]

Chris

 

I had to shave the bushes on my Leda shocks before they'd fit (oh dear ) and they've been fine. The rubber had 'oozed' when they were pressed into the shock end ring. The sleeves were ok and didn't need any attention.

 

A pity the bolt idea won't work. My thought was that you could screw it in from the same direction as normal, ie rearwards, but there would be a gap between the shank and the hole in the front bracket face, due to it being reduced, that would allow you to screw it into the thread/bracket at whatever angle its been bent to, thereby allowing you to use the bolt to bend it gently back. Perhaps its gone too far and/or you wouldn't have enough clearance to get the bolt in in the first place.

 

Sounds like the wing and panel may have to come off. Probably quicker than messing around with clever bits to be honest. And you'll be able to see what you're doing when you fit the shock.

 

Paul

 

 

[Angus]

I had this misalignment problem on my build, but only on one side. The bolt would go in fine without the damper in place, but not with. First I cleaned up both threads with tap and die, then I filed a small taper on the end of the bolt, but still no joy. I had to form the captive nut bracket.

 

The way I did this was to take a piece of metal bar about 2cm wide, 3mm or so thick and about 30cm long. Drill a clearance hole in one end and pass the bar vertically into the suspension tower. Clamp to the captive nut with a short bolt, checking that the bolt doesnt foul on chassis or skin. The bar then gives you sufficient leverage to bend the bracket on which the captive nut is mounted. Once bent, undo the bolt and remove bar.

 

Finally with the shock in place I used a gentle tap with a rubber mallet to encourage the bolt to engage with the captive nut. Success !! Although it did take several hours of messing around to get that one bolt fastened - grrr.

 

Angus

 

 

[Chris__]

Nice idea. Haven't tackled it yet, reckon I'll have calmed down enough after my swearing session to have a go next week with that method.