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Torque check.


RodW

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A few questions relating checking torque settings as part of a spanner check. Any advice would be much appreciated. Car is 2001 1.8 K Roadsport .

1. How do you manage to fit a socket, torque wrench etc on the front upper damper bolt when it is so inaccessible in its little bracket? What combination of socket and adaptations makes this possible?

2. Similarly, what can be used on the front upright top ball joints - a deep socket seems required but then the torque wrench doesn't fit.

4. What is the correct torque for the rear upper damper mount; the text in the build manual (6.2 para k) says 40 lbft, but the table in section 6 says 60 lbft.

5. Similarly, what is the correct torque for radius arm to the de Dion tube; text in manual says 60 lbft, table says 35 lbft.

6. Are bolts/fixings which have ben loctited (e.g. prop shaft, rear upper damper bolts)best checked visually and by feel; i.e. don't torque them, on the basis that any movement of the thread will break the loctiting?

 

Have to go now - sun has come out.

 

RGW

 

Edited by - RodW on 28 Jul 2002 16:06:36

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1) I'd use a spanner and 'guess' the force required. its a bit more scientific than this - when torquing a bolt somewhere else try and remember the amount of force (at the same distance down the wrench as the spanner is long) to make it click over at 35 ft lbs (I think thats the torque required). then press just as hard on the suspension mount.

 

2)spanner again.

 

3) ...

 

4) & 5) the torque is based on the bolt size. so all the bolts of the same thicknes should be the same torque. This (as far as i can remember) boils down to 35 ft lbs on the smaller bolts and 45 on the bigger ones or something like that.

 

6) normal loctited things (like the lower front shock bolt) will need to be reloctited if they are moved. not sure on the propshaft bolts... it can't be normal loctite as its dry to start with. i wonder if its sort of like a nyloc bolt....?

 

any body else agree? disagree?

 

HOOPY

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