A048R Camber/Toe settings

[dreamer_uk75]

Hi

 

Could anybody recommend a good starting point for toe/camber settings for A048R's for track use?

 

I had ACB10's and have changed the rear ears, and done some setup to the front, but it still feels really heavy and a bit understeery. Am going to book it in somewhere to be done, but I assume I need to tell them (prob James Whiting) what settings I actually want!?

 

Thanks!

[MartinWoodham]

2p worth - get as much camber on as any relevant race/ sprint regs allow (2 1/2 deg IIRC for CC series) or whatever if you're just trackday-ing it. Toe it straight and see how you get on, tweak toe along with front ARB to get the under/ oversteer characteristic of your choice.

 

Hopefully someone who knows what they're talking about will be on in a moment...

 

Martin

Aero'd supersported ex-Roadsports B...anyone got a cheap LSD/ 6 speed box?

[dreamer_uk75]

Hiya, thanks for the info. That's roughly what it has at the moment and it doesn't feel right - just heavy and I really have to yank it around corners. I'm not sure what setting needs changing though tbh to correct that!

[CAB]

Hi

I have just set my Superlight up with A048s. The previous owner had fitted medium A048s all around (6" front and replaced the original 6" rears with 8") and not altered the geometry. When I used the car a Castle Combe with this set up I had loads of understeer coming out of the Quarry corner.

I put the original part worn medium compound 6" fronts on the back and put the new soft A048s on the original rear 6" rims back on the front. I figured that I didn't need the 8" rears with a 1.8 Supersport engine. I didn't alter the de-Dion ears but I set the front to 0 degrees toe in/out and -2.5 degrees camber (Gunsons Trakrite gauge and a borrowed camber gauge). I also set the ride height (15mm rake with 75 mm under the sump) and corner weighted the car with a corner weight gauge that I found on Ebay.

With this set-up the steering was very light on the road and it didn't seem to tram-line as much as with the original set-up. After seeing the tyre wear on a friends 7 with -2.5 degrees camber I decided to reduce it and set it to -1.75 degrees negative camber (and re-set the tracking to 0 degrees).

I used the car around Castle Combe again a few weeks ago (similar track temp) and the car didn't understeer once and it seemed much better under braking.

I would suggest setting the camber to -1.75 degrees with 0 degrees toe-in as a starting point for mainly road use to get acceptable wear. I havn't competed in the car but more negative camber might be needed. You might find that you have more rear grip as you have altered the rear camber as well so you might need more than

-1.75 degrees front to compensate for this. My soft front/medium rear combination might counter this.

I don't know how handy you are with the spanners but you can get the Gunsons tracking gauge for about £65-70 and a camber gauge for about £80. I don't know what a professional would charge to do the tracking and camber but I expect that it would be near this if you need to do it more than once. At least with your own kit you can experiment a bit.

I hope this gives you some ideas.

CAB

[dreamer_uk75]

Thanks Cab - it's about -2.5 atm so perhaps I'll dial it back to -2 and try that - hadn't realised .5 degs would make that much difference to a newbie like me. Car doens't get used all that much on the road either.

 

Other thing is the rear doesn't match - can I assume the only way to change this would be to shim one of the ears?

[MartinWoodham]

what ARBs are you running?

 

Martin

Aero'd supersported ex-Roadsports B...anyone got a cheap LSD/ 6 speed box?

[dreamer_uk75]

Err now that's a question.

 

The car came with 3; one already fitted, and two are in the garage. Orange and green are hanging up in the garage, I haven't inspected the one that's fitted (front), or rear....