Zetec and weber sticking throttle???

[Nic Day]

My throttle on my 2 ltr zetec on twin 45s has started to stick every so often.

 

It started the other day when it started to idle a little higher. Then a few miles down the road is stuck a 3/4 of full throttle. after a few kick it freed its self and got me home.

 

Loads of WD40 down both cables and all seemed fine. Now after a couple more runs it has started again.

 

Any idea as it all looks ok and is well oiled!!! cables seem to run nice and are not tight.

 

When I press the peddle it is fine, it just sometimes does not return well (it sticks). I have also checked both springs and theny look fine aswell

 

Open to suggestions - as long as it does NOT involve touching the carbs!!!! that is far to many steps over what I can do!!

 

cheers

Nic

 

Winner of the Largest pair in a non SV 7 (Rumble 2003) here

[Dave H]

Nic,

had a similar problem on my old Xflow - changed the throttle cable and all was well. When I took the cable apart there was a length which had frayed, and occasionally caught. Try disconnecting the cable and moving it by hand. You may be able to feel any unusual resistance. If it all feels OK, test the carbs - open and close them and see if they stick. At least you can eliminate one or the other fairly quickly.

 

Dave H

[I.Mupferit]

I would second the broken strand theory. I had that very problem on a Lotus Cortina aeons ago and it turned out to be exactly as Dave has suggested and all sorted with a new cable. In my case it was just one strand broken and only caught on the outer tube occasionally.

 

Brent

 

2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive

R 417.39 😬

[Nic Day]

thanks guys

 

I will go and buy a couple of cables today and try

 

It is one of those jobs I hate as it is so fiddley and I can never get the idle right afterwards!!!

 

Winner of the Largest pair in a non SV 7 (Rumble 2003) here

[z7]

Sorry for the slight hijack, NIc.

 

I want to get a spare throttle and clutch cable. Can anyone tell me what I need to get/ask for and from where (other than CC)? (Zetec on DCOE's if that make much difference).

 

Thanks

Adil

[Dave H]

Adil,

The clutch cable should be a standard Caterham/Ford part. If your throttle cable is anything like mine, then you can either cut down a standard cable, or make one up. One end needs (obvously) to fit the throttle pedal, so that has to a Caterham type item, but the other end needs a nipple to fit the carb. There was one in the Carb kit when I bought mine, so you could try Webcon, or James Whiting.

 

Let me know how you get on, 'cos I'll have to replace mine sometime in the future.

Dave H

[Nic Day]

When I replaced my throttle cables (2) i got them from James Whiting. But after cutting them down and fitting they are just bike break cables. So I am going to get a couple from a local bike shop and swap them over to see if that clears up the sticking throttle

 

Winner of the Largest pair in a non SV 7 (Rumble 2003) here

[Westfield]

Nic

 

Are they Weber or Delortto carbs? The reason I ask is that Delortto have external springs and Weber have internal ones, sometimes supplemented with external one as well.

 

If they are Webers be very carefull as the internal springs are prone to breaking. If you are lucky it’s the bottom eye of the spring that breaks in which case it just hangs there,,,, If you are unlucky it’s the top eye that breaks and the spring jambs up the throttle…

 

 

Click here to go to my web site!

[Nigel Riches]

I'll second Tony's thoughts about the internal return springs on Weber carbs, can cause problems if they break. Nigel.

 

1982. 5 speed, clamshells. B.R.G / Ali. The True Colours.

[Nic Day]

Tony, Nigel

 

You have me worried now!!! They are webers and I would not know where to start to look for the internal springs!!

 

I am just about ok to change the cables - but opening up a weber is just a bit to far I feel!!!

 

If the internal spring has broken - I would imagine it would not return at all all of the time. This seems to be happening every so often.

 

Winner of the Largest pair in a non SV 7 (Rumble 2003) here

[Westfield]

Nic

 

Its not a difficult job to see if the springs are broken. Checking does not alter the settings on the carbs….

 

To check, remove the fuel line by undoing the 14mm Banjo bolt (while its out see if there is a filter inside the banjo and check its clean) Then take off the central top cover held on with the wing nut, and remove the 5 screws that hold on the top cover of the carb

 

 

Lift the cover gently so as not to damage the joint/gasket. When its off you will see a single 10mm brass disc at the back of the carb with a couple of slots. This holds the spring in place. If you can lift it easily then the spring is broken as it’s the spring that holds it in place. If it comes out with the spring attached then the bottom eye is broken, if not then you have to try and fish the broken spring out with a bit of bent wire, its not too difficult. If the disk is held firmly in place, the spring is OK.

 

I would however always advise that the internal Weber springs are replaced by external ones. I have seen quite a few cars damaged over the years when the throttle sticks open at the wrong time! Mainly on rally escorts, but also a couple of sevens…

 

 

Click here to go to my web site!

[Nic Day]

All fixed

 

I have managed to fix something and not break anything else!!!! A first for me

 

It turned out to be the actual pedal assembly tightening itself to the chassis!!!

 

So once that was loosened it is now running really sweetly!!!

 

Thanks for the reply and suggestions and that god I did not have to take the webers apart

 

Winner of the Largest pair in a non SV 7 (Rumble 2003) here

[z7]

Thanks for the replies, guys

 

Adil