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Filling the diff, sorting the clutch, rear lighting (160 build)


700newtons

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I completed filling the diff today (I had to ask Caterham for extra oil).

They supplied comma EP80W-90 GL5 Mineral oil. I needed a full 2L before the diff was at the right level (more than the instructions suggest). I found a pipe and funnel seemed to work very slowly but effectively. I just got on with other jobs and occasionally filled up the funnel.

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I also sorted out my floppy clutch problem with a wire clamp sent on by Caterham. This isn't mentioned in the August 2014 manual but is in the Jan 3014 one. The clamp fits on the other side of the clutch fork. (See photo)

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I was a bit worried about spring washers that should go on the engine mount bolts (thanks Martin) that were not mentioned in the build manual. I really didn't fancy hoisting the engine again and westling to get the bolts back - potential for disaster here. I rang Derek, and Caterham will sort this free of charge at the post build check (and I think that this is fair enough).

I also sorted out the rear lights - no problems here. I just took me a while to realise that the rubber grommet goes on the bodywork hole, not the rear wing hole. I also bust about 4 fuses testing the lights until I realised that the lose number plate wiring was shorting to the bodywork. *whistle* .if you are building a 160 don't forget to connect the short fuel tank earth wire to one of the wing bolts (RHS).

Another small success was removing the 12V socket connector under the scuttle (black, purple/red wires) and replacing it with a socket that I bought from ebay. I went on a caving trip, head down, in the footwell and gently levered out the pins with a small screwdriver. The pins fit neatly into my new socket.... sorted... I bought a 12V waterproof socket from ebay that should fit neatly into the 3cm diameter hole in the fuse box cover (hopefully).

Tomorrow I'll finish sorting out the seats. I also need to finishing bleeding the brakes (rather spongy) and solve my engine non starting problem.

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Great going Simon. Incidentily, filling the diff is a lot easier if you lift the rubber grommet in the boot floor, which is right above the filling hole! 

In the interests of 'scientific research' for all of us I tried a start today; no joy. In fact there was a rather nasty 'rat-a-tat' from the starter area indicating that it's not being thrown in correctly. Might be the battery needing a boost charge in order to turn it faster. Anyway, Derek will be on the case tomorrow and I will let the 'blog' know.

Also fitted the poppers to the rubber carpets/cockpit floor - no problems.You might be thinking that they are not needed and I queried Derek suggesting this, but he said they are and I think it must be an IVA safety item so they don't get under the pedals.  

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  • Leadership Team

Thanks Peter. I took a spark plug out today and had a sniff. I'm pretty certain that no fuel is getting through.

Does your start button work correctly? (I.e. At position 2 of the key).

I better take a look at the poppers - I dismissed them as an unessassary item 

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Hi Simon - re my start button (which was first mentioned on my delivery day); rather shamefully in retrospect, I mistook the horn for a start button so I don't have one. Sorry, old age!

Current message from Derek re starter is charge the battery right up, untorque the starter mounting nuts a bit and try again; this will allow it to realign itself..................getting to the nuts is going to be fun! On the plus side, all electrics working including self-fitted 12v socket.   

 

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  • Leadership Team

Quite understandable about the start button. I confess to sounding the horn when trying to start the engine for the first time.

My starter motor turns the engine ok - it is just nothing happens.

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