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Caterham 160 Build Blog


700newtons

65,090 views

I ordered my 160 in April 2014. Here is my blog. I hope it maybe useful and interesting to others.

Caterham 160  Expected delivery November 2014.
Full Screen and weather equipment, carpets, lowered floors, push button start, leather seats, Momo steering wheel, heater, Race 4pt harness, Track day roll bar.
Ballistic orange

The lowered floor provides the driver with a clearer view and the 4pt harness and track day roll bar are for improved safety. I understand that access the Lotus 7 club track days is only possible with a track day roll bar too.

Why did I go for a 160? I definitely wanted to build my own car, I was impressed with my test drive, reviews and friends were very positive about it, there are significant savings over a Roadsport and it can be driven to capacity at road legal speeds.

Tools and Equipment (so far!)

Strongman Tools
Trolley jack and axle stands (discount with L7club membership)

Halfords
Socket set, prof torque wrench 8-60Nm, prof torque wrench 60-300Nm. Birzman deadblow hammer

Maplin
Garage alarm

279 Comments


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Hi peter and Simon have either of you fitted the seats yet. I loosened off the slides for the seat so they moved Ok. I then bolted one into the four holes in my lowered fllor. Access to the back bolts isn't easy but once in the seat simply won't slide. It seems as though the seat frame itself hits the chassis member at the front and the lock can't move up enough to release the slides, so fundamentally the seat won't budge. I have the standard cloth seats but with a lowered floor, any ideas. Finally finished the front wiring bit of a nightmare as I destroyed the repeater plus getting it through the wingstay. So now the rad and intercooler

regards

martin

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Hello Martin,

I have leather seats, 4 pt harness and a lowered floor. I have fitted the RHS seat and harness. It seemed to slot in fairly well. The put the seat right back, put the front bolts in (the lever goes under the bar in the cockpit). I then moved the seat forward and did the back bolts. This was a bit of a squeeze, but I managed to get an Allen key behind the seats to hold the bolt as I torqued it up.

The harness needed to be fitted before the seat and I needed help from Derek to understand how it worked. However, once explained, it was straightforward. (I'll blog about it shortly).

I managed to do the back lights this evening. However, I still can't solve the non starting problem. I'll be interested to see how you guys get on with turning the key.

My lighting arrangments seem to work OK except for the RH front repeater. There is some electrical resistance between the wingstay and the chasis. I figure that once I lower the car on its wheels and bounce it around a bit the connection might improve.

good luck with the seats.

Simon

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I sorted my IVA admin (and thanks to your help, Peter, I have got my Caterham paper work sorted).

My post build check is on the 13th April. I have opted to get Caterham to put it through the IVA; I won't have enough time after the PBC to get it sorted before term starts.

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Hi all my diff also took more than 2l I assumed that is was because the half shafts needed to be filled as well, but I filled mine by taking the wooden boot floorout to get the bottles to fill via gravity.  My PBC is for the 9th of April so Simon our cars maybe in Crawley together but I'm planning on driving the car to the IVA in Gillingham, I'm still waiting for the date

regards

martin

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By the way I notice that my fog light had the wrong type of switch. It is a spring rocker switch rather than a 'click' switch.

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Hi All, my fog light switch is also of the wrong type, i.e. not a "click" switch, sounds like a common problem

 

Martin

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I wonder if you will also have a incorrectly wired start button too. I took a closer look under the dash this morning. I think that the start button is simply wired in series with the output of the ignition barrel. I have sent an email to Derek to ask. I'll let you know.

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Hi Simon, I do not have a start button so when I get my last pipes are connected tomorrow and fill the coolant I will then be ready to give it a go

 

martin 

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I asked Derek about the strange sprung fog lamp switch. This is correct, and when I double checked it functioned as a toggle switch, so all is OK.

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Haven't tried the engine since the rattling noise - still plucking up courage to slacken the starter motor fastenings and trying again. The ECU and 'lack-of on the shelf' comments noted with concern - do we think they have got a bad batch? 

Re 'sprung' fog light switch - I was making the same wrong switch comments (to myself) but found an explanations in the Owners Manual.

Avoiding a 'pooh trap' for those yet to fit cycle wings. If you have slightly distorted/unsquare (to tyre) wing arms (I couldn't straighten mine) and follow the manual way you could end up with fastenings slightly out of line on the back end of the wing....... but the holes in the arm will be nicely lined up! Think about it before drilling from the underside of the wing, maybe drill one hole and then measure to drill the 2nd and then drill into the wing arm so the distortion is taken in the arm not the wing. Mine are slightly out on one wing (lesson learnt for the other) and it's annoying me!   

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For the record...

Martin and I seem to have the same problem with starting the car. (An orange light on the dash, healthy electrics and starter motor, but no start).

The folks at Caterham reckon that this is a problem with the ECU. For me, this will be sorted at the PBC,

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Peter, ah yes. My wingstays were not exact either (but good enough). I couldn't bend them though.

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Hi All. Good news and even better news. Starting problem fixed (many thanks Simon for advice). I'm too embarrassed to say what I had done wrong, suffice to say 'read the manual!. Engine started first time, ran like clockwork, heated up and purred along for a 15mins. Pic to showing gauges to prove it. Only lesson learnt that might help others; the Inertia Switch is very 'tender' (could be due the car being 'rigid' on axle stands). 2nd start didn't!, and IS needed to be reset. 3rd start didn't either until IS reset whilst ignition switch in Pos 2. On other hand, it could all be a coincidence.

  /sites/default/files/images/users/11787/Gauges%20%26%20Rev%20Counter%20on%201st%20Run%2015%20Mar%2015.jpg

I haven't got IVA mirror stalks (as shown Fig 130 in manual) either

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Peter or Martin,

Did you get an alternative bracket for the wing mirror (so that it can fit to the windscreen to pass the IVA?). I don't think that I have one.

by the way Martin, which area of the country do you come from? Peter and I (and maybe others) would be up for a 160 meet up. (if we ever get them started)

regards

simon

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Hi all, I didn't get the IVA stalks either but Derek provided them. I'm based in Wokingham Berkshire and mine goes in for its PBC on the 8th of April. Did I hear you have your car started! I've just read peters post again does it say reset the inertia switch whilst the ignition switch is in position 2?

 Martin 

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Hi Martin. Yes, I did reset the IS whilst in position 2, almost as an after thought when it wouldn't react to a start; but in retrospect it's probably not significant. However, having got my engine running 1st time using an ECU which (potentially) is from the same batch as yours and Simon's, I'm thinking the IS might be adding to your problem. Can it be shorted out I wonder?

I also have my PBC on the 8th April, so see you there. And we can discuss a meeting point and date. 

 

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Hi peter I'm dropping the car off on the 7th so probably won't see you on the 8th. Sorry for being pedantic but can you go through the precise sequence for starting your car only I'm still waiting for the replacement ECU and feel a bit glum that mine won't start. Also my inertia switch doesn't feel really positive when you reset it 

 

thanks

Martin 

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Martin. To call it a 'sequence' is not really appropriate. But on 1st start the engine started straight away. The 2nd start (after oil check) it didn't go and the key went back to P1 while I thought about it. I then reset the IS and tried again. The engine started and ran for 15+mins. On the 3rd start it wouldn't go again and (with no real intent to prove anything) key had remained in P2 when I pushed on the IS and went to P3 for another start and it started OK. So I reckon the IS has a lot of influence on failed starts; as another 7 owner had previously advised me. I also agree the IS doesn't give you a satisfying 'click' as feedback. My plan is not to try another start until car is on its wheels so IS is cushioned a bit and 'settled' - prob next w/e after weather gear is fitted.       

Sorry I won' t see you on 8th - but having recently experienced early morning traffic (not something retirees do often thank god!) I'm now thinking of taking my car up on the 7th for an early morning arrival at Caterham on the 8th. 

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Hi all, well my new ECU arrived today, after a bit of a faff putting it in I then tried to start the car. Good news 2nd crank it started, I got a new noise before firing, namely, the fuel pump priming so it was definitely the ECU,  I left it for a minute then checked the oil and then ran it till the fan cut in. All good apart from the heater didn't feel too warm but I will leave that to the PBC in early April

regards

martin

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Great news Martin (and thanks for the email). My fuel pump is priming with my current ECU, but I hope that the new ECU will solve it. Hopefully I should be able to fit it on Tuesday or Wednesday.

Simon

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Well done Martin; it sounds like a 'sewing machine' doesn't it. Re heater; have you taken the brass nut off the top of the rad; I got quite a bit of air out of it, then moved the heater knob back and forth a few times. 

 

 

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Hi peter, yes I have removed that nut on top of the rad but it I might do it again. I will see what the heater is like when I start the car again and will try the control a few times. Finger crossed Simon for next week, I will be up at Crawley on the 7th of April but I'm still waiting for my IVA test, it will be 4 weeks next Thursday and apparently the DVLA will guarantee the V5 in 6 weeks of submitting the paperwork. Amazing, 3 weeks to build the car and 10 weeks to register it

martin

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I fitted my mirrors in the 'IVA position' today as per the manual. But I seem to recall that a blog somehwere said they should be fitted on the top screw. Anyone any thoughts?

/sites/default/files/images/users/11787/Doors%20and%20IVA%20Mirrors%20Fitted_0.jpg

 

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Peter, I have done the same as you (and I get a fairly decent view). I have not seen any info to the contrary.

I put the stickers on today - that's it; everything is done that can be done. I just hope that the new ECU will solve my non starting problem. Roll on Tuesday.

Thanks for the tip about the radiator nut. I took mine off and there was quite a bit of air trapped in there. I notice that some heater pipes are quite high up compared with the header tank. I suppose that it is designed this way and works - but it does make me wonder.

simon

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