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Caterham 160 Build Blog


700newtons

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I ordered my 160 in April 2014. Here is my blog. I hope it maybe useful and interesting to others.

Caterham 160  Expected delivery November 2014.
Full Screen and weather equipment, carpets, lowered floors, push button start, leather seats, Momo steering wheel, heater, Race 4pt harness, Track day roll bar.
Ballistic orange

The lowered floor provides the driver with a clearer view and the 4pt harness and track day roll bar are for improved safety. I understand that access the Lotus 7 club track days is only possible with a track day roll bar too.

Why did I go for a 160? I definitely wanted to build my own car, I was impressed with my test drive, reviews and friends were very positive about it, there are significant savings over a Roadsport and it can be driven to capacity at road legal speeds.

Tools and Equipment (so far!)

Strongman Tools
Trolley jack and axle stands (discount with L7club membership)

Halfords
Socket set, prof torque wrench 8-60Nm, prof torque wrench 60-300Nm. Birzman deadblow hammer

Maplin
Garage alarm

279 Comments


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  • Leadership Team

Ned, go for it. I'll chip in where I can. I won't pretend to know better than a proper mechanic though. My car might fall to bits soon.

Another thing that I missed from the manual was higher resolution photographs. Sometimes you just want to zoom in and see the detail.

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Dangerous ground Ned. Any advice given/taken that has not been endorsed by Caterham will/could invalidate the guarantee at the subsequent 'Board of Enquiry'. On the other hand, if they find something missing/wrong and it is not in the manual then they will be obliged to rectify it at their expense. For instance; now that I know the engine mount bolts need a spring washer then it will be on my 'snagging list' for the post build check and they can put one in at their cost and rectify any alignment snags that result due to everything else being bolted up around the engine; or indemnify me for any long term problems the lack of a spring washer might invite.   

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I take your point... And you're right, the lack of detail in the manual has strengthened claims and won arguments in the past, I know. 

But my idea is just to collect the pearls of wisdom from here, and possibly add some different photos. Would this be any more problematic than listing them on Blatchat?

I'm going to do it anyway, for my own benefit, and I'm very happy to share with others in the 160 family!

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I take your point... And you're right, the lack of detail in the manual has strengthened claims and won arguments in the past, I know. 

But my idea is just to collect the pearls of wisdom from here, and possibly add some different photos. Would this be any more problematic than listing them on Blatchat?

I'm going to do it anyway, for my own benefit, and I'm very happy to share with others in the 160 family!

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There is some bloke doing the upgrade to the manual. I'm not sure if everyone is aware but since last June I've been in dialogue with Caterham about the 80+ discrepancies I found in the manual and that was before I started my build. It got to the point where I contacted their chief commercial officer who was very apologetic but here we are 10 months later and no update.  I have been in email exchange with the head tech guy and I spent 90 mins on the phone in Nov last year explaining all the errors I found, but I must admit to some frustrations especially after today's fiasco with the engine mounts.

im up for helping anyone with their build but I think Caterham should own the official manual and everything we do as a community should stay offline, only my opinion 

regards

martin

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  • Leadership Team

I don't think I'll be taking my engine mount bolts out anytime soon. When I undid one of the bracket bolts (which I mistakenly used as a Earth connection) I had significant problems getting it all back in place again.

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See previous blog - if anyone is in doubt whether they have this bit or not, this is what the Clutch Cable Retaining Clamp (which neither Simon or I got) looks like with a v small allen key in it.  /sites/default/files/images/users/11787/Clutch%20Cable%20Clamp.jpg. Fuse Panel Cover fixed with black velcro and seems to be OK. Also used the hole in the cover to mount my 12v scoket, which also seems to work. 

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  • Leadership Team

I haven't got my head around it yet, but did you manage to solve the floppy clutch problem with this?

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Hi Simon - I think it has, the pedal has 'settled' 10mm below the brake and, as the clutch plate spring is now influencing in both directions, it 'feels right'. Amazing though that fitting it has been left out of the latest manual draft and such a vital bit was not in our kits.

 

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Ah Ah, I've think I've just twigged, does it go on the opposite side of the clutch lever so it has pressure from the clutch spring in both directions?

 

Martin

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  • Leadership Team

Glad you sorted it Martin.

OK folks, bright ideas please....

I filled my car with fluids this evening  (including 3L fuel) and tried to start the engine.

The battery seems in good health; all the lights, fans etc work.

However, nothing happens when I press the start button. On turning the key I can hear the fuel pump go. However, the orange engine light and red battery warning light are illuminated.

On looking around the engine I did notice these two unconnected 'sockets'. 

image_44.jpg.a231b52c69e9c6ff023c5fc096c747ba.jpg

(just above the blue tape).

do any of you have connections to these?

thanks

Simon

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  • Leadership Team

I also bled the brakes. No air bubbles, but pedal is still spongy (?).

not a successful evening...

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Hi Al, just a quick update on the tax, after a extensive email exchange with Crawley it seems the 160 tax is £145, not the £30 quoted by the dealer.  It seems that small manufacturers can't use the CO rating and it is based on 2 bands above and below a 1400cc value so the 160 is in the lower band at £145, seems a swizz to me.

Simon sorry to hear about the non starting engine, in the good old days you could pull the spark plug out and check, pull the fuel feed of the carb, etc but with all this modern plumbing this is no longer possible.  I too have the 2 unconnected pipes near the throttle body and I'm sure you've checked all the other connections. Does the interia cut out switch behind the brake master cylinder have any role to play?  I've also read that the 160 long term test in Car magazine had problems with the immobiliser and does this need to be programmed or linked to the car before it will start

Martin

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  • Leadership Team

Thanks - I got an email back from The salesman saying that it was always £145. Hmmm... I began to doubt my memory.

regarding non starting, I think that those two unconnected pipes are probably blocked off. I'll take a look behind the brake master cylinder...

The imobiliser seems to work as described (i.e. Rapid flashing of the red light then off). So I don't think it is that.

There is a slightly unhealthy quiet periodic pulsing noise from the engine which cuts off after a while.

I wonder if 3L of fuel was enough - will put a bit more in.

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  • Leadership Team

Ok, this is a bit weird. If I turn the key to stage three and press the start button then the starter motor fires up (this is obviously not right - what is the point of a start button?).

no engine ignition yet. I'll try more fuel.

Off for Sunday lunch now...

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I bought my 12v socket straight off the net. Got a push and twist one so the plug-in won't shake loose. Used standard crimped male and female spade connectors and heat shrunk the cables together to form a 'rats tail' off the loom connection. Tie wrapped it to the loom and it looks the part.

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A current owner told me that if it doesn't start it is usually the Inertia Switch that needs to be reset. Is it possible that the inertia switch (on bulkhead behind the master cylinder) re-circs fuel back to the tank e.g. you would hear the pump going but no fuel would get to the engine. 

Simon - did you use an auto, tyre-air driven, brake bleeder. If so someone has 'blogged' elsewhere that he had to revert to the traditional 'pedal' method to get the final bit of air out of the system after using one. 

Me - I had a 'revitting' day on the interior panels and my hands and wrists ache! 

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Hi I bled my brakes today just used the old fashioned way by a tube over the nipples into a jar of fluid, took a few goes but got there in the end but it is a 2 man task. Also got my wings on and the interior trim in. Just the riveting to go and then the rad and intercooler, then onto the weather gear.  Simon hope your engine is starting soon

martin

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  • Leadership Team

 Martin, did you manage to get firm brakes?

I'm a bit forlorn. Spongy brakes and no engine start...

So annoying... *banghead*

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Hi Simon, well they feel firm and there is no more air bubbles.  I couldn't get all the air out at first so actually started at the front RHS, once the fluid starting moving out of the master cylinder then I stopped and went back to normal sequence.  So start at the longest run, the back, then both LHS front nipples and then finally the 2 RHS frontones.  I didn't use an EZY bleed, I went with the straight pipe over the nipple into a clear jar of fluid and then pushing on the pedal and holding down the pedal when you nip the nipple up.  It is a 2 man job and getting the fluid moving at the start was my main issue.  Sorry to hear about the engine, I'm at a bit of a loss to know what next?

Regards

Martin

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Hi Simon bit of a long shot but have you checked the earth leads, I guess the engine wouldn't turn if the earth was poor but it may be the loom earth  that is worth checking

regards

martin

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  • Leadership Team

Thank Martin,

i did check the ECU Earth. I understand that this is often a problem.

i may try cranking for a bit longer tonight. I understand it does take a long time for the fuel to make it.

thanks for the useful info about the brakes too.

Simon

 

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