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Posts posted by c7trp
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30 tonner?
My knowledge is a bit out of date, but this amount of lash not unusual IME. (Mostly Leyand, Eaton and ROR stuff both CWP and worm drives)
Centre bearing or UJ failed on the prop out of interest?
Dunning and Fairbank good for refurb of the prop.
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I have one on an old VVC loom.
I think you'll still have my email addy from the alternator bolt - send me your address and I'll chop it out at the weekend and post it to you
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Atomic
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Dave, YHM
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Nigel,
Try CPC Trade Counter north Preston near Asda
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Blue ford focus?
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Rich, arrived and looks fantastic
Looks too good to put on the car!
Many thanks
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can I ask if you have had the cam timing checked?
I'm thinking the same thing from the symptoms you describe.
My standard 1.8k wasn't keen to tick over when the valve overlap was at the maximum.
Easy to check if you have standard pulleys.
Edited by - c7trp on 25 Apr 2014 20:41:35
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No worries. Look forward to PM
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These are from a De-Dion car.
Any use?
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Edited by - c7trp on 23 Apr 2014 21:17:42
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I *think* I have a pair from my 2003 car. I'll check when I get a min
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I used a deep socket and a g-clamp. Not that hard to do.
You do need some right angled circlip pliers with a long reach to remove the circlip once the spring is compressed.
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These people where really helpful for parts and advice. www.turborebuild.co.uk
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No.
I've rebuilt a couple of vnt units on VAG turbos and tbh only ever needed the odd bolt.
The units I've worked on hadn't failed though, just vnt unit seized leading to over boost.
Once apart they clean up pretty easily in my experience.
HTH
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Star, thanks
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Replied
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Has anyone got a spare alternator adjuster bolt from a K-Series?
Its the M6 flanged head jobbie
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It's M12 on my 2003 EU3 engine
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to the 4 Gloucestershire blatters we met in the car park in Hawes today.
You certainly picked a good weekend for a blat around the Dales
Edited by - c7trp on 29 Sep 2013 22:16:49
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Nigel glad to be of assistance to Mrs Nigel for looking after us.
As much as you can tell with the tube in the car, I don't think its bent. Sighting along it as best you can, it looks to be true.
At best the flange on the tube is bent ~0.5mm inwards at the bottom left. However the flange isn't perfectly flat anyway. It has a 'hump' in it, presumably from heat distortion from welding where it has been welded to the tube.
I would have thought that the entire un-restrained (left hand) side of the flange would be significantly distorted before a tube itself bends.
TBH I have not inspected a known good tube for accuracy or flatness, but from what I could see the damage is very minor.
If anyone has a DD tube to hand, perhaps they could measure how flat it actually is?
To be 100% sure it would need to come out, but I expect, having seen it, a new ear appropriately shimmed followed by a geometry check would suffice.
C7 TRP
in Spotted
Posted
Spotted you!
Snapon convention? Holiday Inn, Lancaster. 20:30 today.
Easy when your name is painted on the back :)