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grumpy the 7th

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Posts posted by grumpy the 7th

  1. It's possible to slacken all 5 primary nuts and move the collector & silencer slightly up/down to see if you can achieve any extra clearance. Also remove the rear bobbin bracket to allow free movement but put blocks under the silencer to stop it falling. If you can get clearance then support the silencer in the desired position and trial fit the bobbin bracket as it may need bending. Once the rear bracket is adjusted and fitted retighten the 5 head nuts to 25'lb. 

  2. Can't have been me as I was on the island on 4th,5th & 6th. I did get a flash and wave from a white BMW though. We stayed at the White Lion so might have done the Military road (once or twice.......or more ......🤩🤩), Friday the road was closed at Afton due to flooding. So! just had to turn back and do it all again, comment I got from Granddaughter's boyfriend was "you don't need to look in your mirrors after an overtake to move back in because they're so far behind you" 

    If you're local?? the Gulf garage at Chale has a weird setup, I filled up and went in to pay and was asked how much it was!!! they don't have a monitor inside the garage. 

    • Like 1
  3. 5 hours ago, BigCol said:

    I’ve just fitted a bronze one supplied by Steve Perks at SPC (he of TracSport frame).

    Fitted perfectly.

    Did you have to bend anything to get it on the shaft? If so, what, where & how much bend

  4. Received a new saddle from Burton but it looks like it needs a damn good fettling 🤯 Decided to send it back for a refund and look elsewhere.

    Got the refund OK but minus the postage £6.67 + tax. 😞

    Ho Hum.

    IMG_20240416_101348760.jpg

    IMG_20240416_101402628.jpg

    IMG_20240416_101417262.jpg

  5. 21 hours ago, John Vine said:

    It's supposed to be harder wearing.  It'll also need crimping lightly to fit.

    JV

    I broke the saddle 2 years ago and replaced it with another plastic one. But spirited 2nd to 3rd gear is somewhat notchy so thinking about changing again for a brass one this time. 

    Where do you crimp it? is it where it clips over the shaft?

    Does the brass one have 2 pairs of lugs or is it one long gutter shape

    How much do you crimp it?

    Should it still move freely??

    Can you slacken it if over crimped???

    The plastic one that broke was 22 years old was never greased but I greased the new one

    THANKSSaddle.emlSaddle.eml

  6. Hi, I'm doing the service on my 2000 1.6k and seen that the silencer has a slight split in the inlet to can weld. Checking the engine mounts with a jack under the sump the offside mount metal threaded boss that the 19mm bolt, bolts into pulls out of the rubber. Thought I'd see how easy it is to replace by slackening the big bolt BUT the metal boss in the rubber just spins round. (bugger)
    Do I change it in the following manner?
    1) put the chassis on stands & gently support the engine.
    2) remove the mounting bracket to engine via the 2x hex bolts
    3) undo the 2x 12mm mount to chassis bolts and remove the bracket and mount in one piece
    4) clamp the mount with the rubber in my big vice and undo the 19mm bolt (or will I need to cut the rubber to expose the threaded boss to clamp it better)?
    Think this probably happened when I had a clutch change a couple of years ago? as I seem to remember them saying they'd had a problem with a mount.
    Anything I've omitted or best practice? please give comments, suggestions or ideas, whilst I await arrival of a new mount.
    Thanks rog
  7. Replaced the screen and I can't remember how the heater wires come out of the rubber weather seal? There's a cut out near both sides where the 'tang' part slides into the groove under the frame but if the wire comes out at this cutout then there's about 1" of wire blocking the last part of the groove that stops the rubber going to the end.

    Any tips or tricks to make this right please? 

    see the pictures.Screenwireatend_v1_0.jpg.deffab41eb8b0e715220848a86d5e945.jpg 

    large_Screenwireatrubbercutout_v1_0.jpg.9dff0128372b72b99e522ff7e0fc64fe.jpg

    thanks.

  8. Further to me loosing one intercom headset off the back of the car and as you can't get new headsets with 6 pin mini din anymore and (NOT wanting to replace my Starcom1 and remaining headset) for a new setup. I think I can cobble something (if anyone can confirm or otherwise please?) 

    The 6 pin din uses 3 sleeved wires and 4 pin jack plug/socket uses common ground.

    SO if I were to cut the 6 pin female off the amp and connect a 4 pin jack socket (with the 3 sleeves commoned) would a new headset work? 

    Does anyone near Derbyshire have a headset (with 2 working ears and a mic I could try this out on please?) I'd need to know what size jack, either plug or socket so I could purchase a female/male to try it.

    THANKS

  9. Hi, Tim, good to see another 7er enjoying the day. I was on an extended test run after changing the rear caliper sliders due to excessive clunking noises from my old worn ones. Bakewell to Keddleston NT over the sticks for a toilet and coffee break then back via Belper to collect another "Cask Marque" token from the Devonshire for lunch and another wee (great beef sarni with gravey & chips). We're off to Derby tonight for the T20 cricket :-)

    rog

  10. After loosing my Starcom Advanced intercom headset off the back of my car I now need a new setup. Starcom are no longer in existance and I can't find anywhere an ear defender headset with mike & ears  with a 6pin male mini din plug. I'm used to cables and wifi but don't know much about the Bluetooth magic system.

    What do I need to get comms between Er' indoors and myself if I were to go Bluetooth. My understanding is that I need two new bluetooth intercom headsets and just connect to my android phone? 

    Is this all I need?

  11. If using a cut down allen key. Use a ratchet ring spanner and put a bit of insulting tape on the cut down allen and push it into the spanner so that it doesn't keep dropping out of the spanner (how do I know *whistle* )

     

  12. Which ever side you feel comfortable with. 

    As SM25T above *thumb_up* if using self tappers or pop rivets either take the tunnel top off or use a strong magnet to determine where the chassis rails are before drilling. My tunnel top is a pain to remove due to me designing the intercom sockets in a junction box on the back panel just above the tunnel  *boxedin* should have placed it higher 

    Replacing the gear box saddle took 1/2 a day just removing plugs & wires  *silly* me

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