Angus

I thought I would post my experience of Salessbs, as posted by SLR No. 77 - Stu (post #54).

The ebay shop didnt have quite what I thought I needed, so I sent a message.  Within a few hours I had a call from Mike Stevenson, who runs the shop.  What a knowledgeable guy !  Really helpful, went out of his way to get me sorted.  He explained that the Autocom microphones dont like damp conditions, and gradually corrode and degrade.  He could sell me the parts, or he would repair the headphone units for me.  Given that the units are my 15 year old homebrew ones, that is one amazing service !  He would also fit longer headphone leads, to fix the problem of the connectors fouling on the shoulder strap buckles.

I didnt fancy the fiddly soldering that would be required, so I sent them off last week, and I got them back yesterday.  Kate and I went out for a test run today, and they work perfectly !  In fact I think better than the originals, as I can move the microphone about 1cm from my lips, whereas before it had to be almost touching.  And very reasonably priced.

So 10 out of 10 for an absolutely fabulous service.  Mike is thoroughly recommended, so those of you with Intercom problems, Mike Stevenson is your man.

Angus

I thought I would post my experience of Salessbs, as posted by SLR No. 77 - Stu (post #54).

The ebay shop didnt have quite what I thought I needed, so I sent a message.  Within a few hours I had a call from Mike Stevenson, who runs the shop.  What a knowledgeable guy !  Really helpful, went out of his way to get me sorted.  He explained that the Autocom microphones dont like damp conditions, and gradually corrode and degrade.  He could sell me the parts, or he would repair the headphone units for me.  Given that the units are my 15 year old homebrew ones, that is one amazing service !  He would also fit longer headphone leads, to fix the problem of the connectors fouling on the shoulder strap buckles.

I didnt fancy the fiddly soldering that would be required, so I sent them off last week, and I got them back yesterday.  Kate and I went out for a test run today, and they work perfectly !  In fact I think better than the originals, as I can move the microphone about 1cm from my lips, whereas before it had to be almost touching.  And very reasonably priced.

So 10 out of 10 for an absolutely fabulous service.  Mike is thoroughly recommended, so those of you with Intercom problems, Mike Stevenson is your man.

Angus

I have an R400D on RB's so same engine setup.  I get a very similar problem:  When starting from warm / hot, typically after stopping for fuel, then after 30-seconds to 1 min after startup, I get a huge flat spot, similar symptoms to what you are describing.  The engine stutters along, regardless of throttle position, then suddenly picks up and all is OK.  From then on during the drive the problem doesnt re-occur and everything is OK, until I switch off and restart when hot.  Cold start no problem - on the button every time.

I have had this problem for years and I live with it.  Car has been mapped (twice), lambda sensor and TPS changed, no change.  I am running the upgraded coil-pack sub-loom and TPS wiring.

Someone once said that it was the ECU getting confused because there are two temperature inputs, but I have no evidence to support this.

Thanks Stu.

Salessbs looks just the job - I'll check them out.  Looks like Autocom have gone out of business.

Thanks!

Angus

Hi all

I have been following this thread with interest.  

I have been using a wired Autocom unit with a pair of Optime IIs that I built about 15 years ago.  My wife and I go on long (2 weeks plus) camping trips round Europe, and being wired is essential as there are limited options at campsites for charging batteries.  (Our phones are charged by USB in the car).  The setup has worked really well all this time.

Hi John

I've responded to your PM - apologies for the delay.

Excellent set of notes - thank you!

The part number for the sealant - is that a Ford part number (FINIS code, I believe they are called) ?

Angus

John - what was your solution to not having to loosen the bell-housing bolts ?  Could you post up instructions on how to do it ?  

(I have a slight weep of oil from the joint with the front timing cover that I really should do something about).

Thank you all for your suggestions.  In the end I took it over to Road & Race.  They can do it in about a week.  Ideal as it gives me some time for the other various jobs I want to do.

Ah I had forgotten Phil.  He sorted my noisy diff soon after I built the car after CC said it was 'within limits'.  I hadnt associated him with gearboxes - doh !  I'll give him a call.

Thanks Chris    

My 6-speed gearbox doesnt want to stay in reverse, it jumps out unless I am very gentle on the power and hold the gearlever in by hand.   There are no other obvious problems.  Its done about 27000 miles from new in 2007 and as the engine (R400 Duratec) is out of the car I want to 'refresh' the box in case the reverse problem is just the start.  As well as fixing this I think I want to change the syncro rings and any other parts that are worn.

Now the question is, what is the best way to do this ?

1) Get CC to do the work (do they do Gearboxes or just send them away ?)

2) Do it myself - is there a workshop manual / parts list for the 6-speed ?  And does it need specialist tools ?

3) Send it to a gearbox specialist.  I know there is Brian Hill (BGH) who I think designed it originally and also SPD developments.  They both used to advertise in LF but dont seem to any longer.  Any other possible suppliers out there ?

What suggestions do people have as to the best way forward ?

Thanks

Angus

I have sent the two WN's I have to all those that have requested them.

I have the following WNs.  Likewise if anyone wants them please BM me.

WR450 - Clutch stop fitted to metric chassis

WR465 - S3 RHD Pedal position with standard brake master cyclinder

Angus

I have a set of Low Flying mags from 1991 to 2015 September. Good condition, dry stored.  

There are one or two that I know are definitely missing: October 2004, April 2003, July 1996, November 1996, Sept-Nov 93.

Ideal for a new member looking for back issues of the club mag.

Pickup by arrangement from near Guildford or Stevenage.  Available as a complete set - I will not split.

Free for a donation to Neuk the Leuk.

Angus 07967 275656

Hi Fred

I dont know, but you might be able to get the info you need from the pin-out diagrams on the SBD website here:

http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Engine_Management_Systems/ECU/Current_MBE_ECU_Information.htm

Having just had my R400 (now on RB's) remapped by Steve I can vouch for his work.

Hi Richard

BM sent ref grill.

Thanks, Angus

Hi Andrew

Yes your parts list link now works OK - thanks.  A big list of parts, but very comprehensive.  Administering the sourcing process for that list must have been a big part of the project !

With hindsight what would you have used in place of paint.net ?

I love your test bed - now that is a great project.  Given I have a Duratec it has got me thinking .......  Although I think I would start with a complete engine in need of a rebuild rather than assemble one from parts.

Andrew

Thanks - all clear now.  I should have read properly your first post !  

BTW, the link to Google drive doesnt seem to work for me - I get a '403' error.

I didnt expect you to have one for a Duratec - my comment was a bit tongue in cheek!

How did you draw the connectors ?  Are there pre-drawn shapes in paint.net ?

I am intrigued by your engine test bed that you refer to - have you got any pics ?

(Sorry for all the questions) - Angus

Andrew

What fantastic work !  Really impressive.  

A couple of small points I noticed:

You give the connector housing partnumbers, what about the pin partnumbers, or are they defined by the housing ?

ECU plug 1 pin 44 is labelled 'Inlet Air Temperature', but goes to the Inlet Manifold Pressure sensor C33 pin PB.  Is that correct ?  Seems confusing connecting temperature to pressure.

 You havent done one of these for a Duratec have you ?

Where do you go for your loom supplies ?

Angus

Here is the link to the upgrade on the parts store:

http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=3768

It showing as out of stock - I've never seen it not out of stock. I rang the parts department and they ordered it for me.  Took about 2 weeks from what I remember. However as I had booked the car in for CC to fit it about 4 weeks later the fact that it only took 2 weeks didnt really matter.

I am booked in for this Friday....

Here is the link to the upgrade on the parts store:

http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=3768

It showing as out of stock - I've never seen it not out of stock. I rang the parts department and they ordered it for me.  Took about 2 weeks from what I remember. However as I had booked the car in for CC to fit it about 4 weeks later the fact that it only took 2 weeks didnt really matter.

I am booked in for this Friday....

Hi Michael 

i I am using the standard Caterham RB's. In fact it is the standard Caterham upgrade. The ECU is the standard MBE unit. You get a new map as part of the upgrade. However I plan to take it to the two Steves at Rainham to get it mapped properly. 

I I did think about doing it myself but didn't fancy the bonnet cutout or the map upgrade

I was in the Blue R400 going the other way on the road going to the university near Falmer.  Hope you were having a good run out!

Shaun

Yes thats going to be my method, but I'm starting with a reasonable bonnet that Caterham will cut the large hole in (for the track-day airbox). I will then use this bonnet as the mount on which to make the cardboard template.

Craigy,

Yes I have thought of that - that is the downside of the foam filter and a small cutout.  However my second bonnet will have the large hole so if I ever want to do more trackdays then I will use that bonnet with an airbox.  I mainly use the car for touring these days.

Hi Andy

Thank you for this comprehensive and prompt reply.  I have been holding off replying in case anyone comes forward with the magic template.  However no-one has so I am thinking that this combination of engine / induction / chassis is pretty rare!  

My plan is to get a 2nd hand bonnet that Caterham can cut their large hole into.  This at least gives me a driveable car. I will then create a template out of cardboard fixed to this bonnet by measuring and cutting - the method that you suggest.  This I will then take to Arch for them to cut into the bonnet.  I have more confidence in their cutting than mine! 

Meanwhile, with this BTT, has anyone got a template ?