Stuart Faulds
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Posts posted by Stuart Faulds
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The standard ECU on the VVC drops the rev limit for a period after you bounce off it. I can't remember the exact figures, but your problem sounds about right. Buy shiftlights
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Damnit - I forgot to say 'No test pilots'
We moved over xmas Nifty - a bid to spend less time driving trucks and more time in the workshop.
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Rachel Greens front-running C400.
Rebuilt into new Chassis mid-2008.
Sequential gearbox (new in 2008)
Engine rebuilt mid-2008
Stack Dash with Datalogging.
Current lap-record holder (Silverstone International, 2008)
Genuinely maintained regardless of cost by Fauldsport.
Includes spare set of painted wings (new) and spare set of rims. Other spares by negotiation.
Full support package available (POA)
On the button - ready to win in 2009.
£25,000 no offers, part-ex or bids on the wheels please.
Pics on Pistonheads here
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As the title really - we've run out of heads without holes or cracks in them, so are looking for standard heads in decent condition. Complete engines considered (1.6 preferred).
Cheers
Stuart
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Sorry Will, we relocated to Stafford over the christmas break - needed a bit more space, and wanted to spend less time on the road travelling to circuits.
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There are 5 types of ear available from Caterham:
Standard Brake - 0.25, 1.5, 2.0
Uprated Brake - 0.25, 2.0
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Andy, not sure if you're sorted yet, but we've got a load of new and slightly-worn A539's about 20 minutes from Curborough.
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Call it what you like, I strongly recommend the use of a press rather than a hammer - the hubs are very easily damaged, and any movement in the cup *will* eventually scrap the hub.
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Quick answer - yes.
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That is the correct bracket (albeit the 1st powdercoated one I've seen), just ignore the tongue on the bottom of it and use the 2 lugs at the top. Personally I think it's a nasty item and usually just make up a bracket, but it works fine.
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The K dry sump shouldn't have a gasket - it's sealed with silicon, or loctite 574 for the more paranoid/careless.
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yhm (x2)
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It's not quite that simple - there's a spacer between the disc and flange too (hence the machined bit to locate it), so the the disc is actually some 20mm (I'm guessing) further away from the flange.
If by mk1 you mean the solid uprated brakes, then yes, it's a standard solid front with the same machining and spacer.
I'm probably not explaining it very well, but I know exactly what I mean
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Roger, the rears are a vented front with about a mil machined off the centre where the flange locates. If all my stock wasn't packed away at the moment I'd measure one for you ☹️
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Why should it have toe in?
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Sounds like a 0.25 ear - these normally give around 0.5degree when fitted, if not, shim them to suit.
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The quaife atb you should have got looks similar to the AP. It also acts like an open diff when it's jacked up.
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Put the stands under the chassis *NOT* the tube. Without the A-frame the tube can roll and make it unstable on the stands.
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Sounds like what you actually want is a 2006 onwards Roadsport cage. Possibly slightly more chance of finding one 2nd hand than an SL cage.
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Just be warned that I'm not an engineer
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John, solution (a) works fine - our track R400 has been run like this for a year and a half now.
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There should be plenty of clearance there - is the engine sitting down fully? There isn't an alternative bellhousing, and no mods should be required to it. Have you got a photo?
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Removing the honeycomb floor above the fuel tank
in TechTalk
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