S47zz
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Posts posted by S47zz
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Just looked at an ex race Cat7 for a friend who really liked teh car except it had a full race cage fitted which he hated.
So my numpty Q not knowing anything about Cats or roll cages for that matter, Is it possible to remove the full cage and either fit a 'normal' roll bar, or even use the car without the cage fitted at all.
Like I do on my Lotus 7
Mal
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Martin J
With 110mm You'll be safe to come on one of the Taffia's Welsh events, provided you don't have Heavyweight 'Baggage' fitted 😬
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IMO For enthusiastic driving I reckon you need at least 75-80mm clearance under the sump.
SM25T's 65-70mm would be OK for Surrey cruisers
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If you have uneven braking ie one side locking B4 the other, check the ARB ain't bent.
I had a problem with one side locking first, which turned out to be a bent ARB
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Mk1 - 2 litre capri - methinks
At least that's what on an S4 with Ford axle
A coupla quid a set from any autojumble
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If you fit aeroscreens you won't need to fit a washer bottle
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tried to look at the link - unable to do so because of the amount of junk being downloaded B4 I could access the page.
I have dialup access so sites of this nature are impossible for dialuppers to access ☹️
Why not put the car 'ad on Pistonheads
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Plenum will give better MPG figures - TB's more power provided motor is set up properly.
Plenum is easy to make if you have a mig welder - PPC mag did a great feature on this a few years back.
Unless you want the ultimate power - I'd stick with the Plenum.
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40000 miles in Zetec powered 7's both with remote or standard fitting - no problems whatsoever, with ford or aftermarket filters --I'd suggest that the filter was too tight, or the rubber seal wasn't lightly covered in oil prior to tightening. Well thats my two pennath on the subject - curious though why it should happen
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E type Jag engine mount on mine
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I used a standard Sierra injection pump - only £10 new from most Autojumbles
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Myles
Why not get the Olympus OM 18 &21mm f3.5 manual lenses instead of the zeiss they're both excellent and you'll get both for the less than the cost of one zeiss
- A Tokina/Vivitar 17mm OM manual focus is also worth getting too
Mal
ps
You're also missing a long tele from you quiver especially since you only have 1.3x and full frame bodies though a 7d could rectify that problem *biggrin*
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Easiest route is to bin the X flow and fit a modern Zetec in it's place, even a standard spec 2 litre with your existing webers or TB's and mapped ignition will give you 155-160BHP with total reliability. Oh and much better fuel economy
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Jack Flash
Only the mid 80's - you ought to pick up new ones easily at most Autojumbles. Just find out the original donor car from where they came.
I had to source some for my 1970 lotus 7 - originally fitted to early Mk1 Ford escorts, the original switches were made in Italy, and no moulds or original tooling remains to re-manufacture them, with all the classic Ford escort rally boys also avidly looking for them too I had to find original late 60's early 1970's switches. It took over 5 years but I have found all 4!!! and unlike yours mine are also chrome plated around the edge which also wears off in time, exposing the cream plastic which the chrome covered.
Having found 'em all I'm reluctant to fit 'em - hey you work it out.
expect to pay 50P to £150 each!!!, me the most I paid was a fiver
I reckon if I sold 'em on ebay they'd make about £250-£300 for the set of 4 😬
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Believe they were fitted to diesel sierra's - try your local Scrappie £30 - 50 ought to buy one.
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Easiest solution IMO:->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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Buy a new [black/not faded grey] switch 😬 😬
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Dave J
Menu - yep I'll have a duratec with 250BHP please, with a 6 speed SC/CR on the side *biggrin*
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GJT
That'll work too, but do you really need one?? I don't, I've also heard that they cause a voltage drop, which leads to starting/cranking problems, can't comment personally on this though coz I've never had an isolator fitted on my car.
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Different train of thought - I always disconnect my battery whenever the car is in the garage, by doing this there's no draIN on the battery whatsoever, and Iv'e never had a battery problem since I've been disconnecting it. for sure it's more hassle but to me it's worth the extra effort. I guesss it depends how handy/motivated you are with a spanner
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Good engine when it's running - just hope you don't gat the dreaded ECU/electronics failure
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Original araldite [Not rapid] will sort it, probably the easiest and cheapest solution
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Go for the ECU and Tb's everytime - you'll never regret it *thumbup*
webers are museum pieces - nice museum pieces though
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Awesome lathe - used one for many years
shows up a Myford for what it's not 😬 😬
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Sounds to me like it's the wear indicators fitted to the tintops front disk pads??
worth checking whether your pads have them fitted too
Full roll cage - numpty Q
in TechTalk
Posted
Skydragon
Thanks for the fast reply, I figured that it was removable, but since it is an ex race car, there was a thought in the back of my mind that maybe it was part of/or welded to the chassis, and so wasn't removable.
Many thanks
Mal