bosshogg

I think everything you have said in your post is correct. I tow with different trailers regularly, and ride quality is severely compromised by over inflated tyres. They should be adjusted to the load being carried. That calculator you have found seems a good source to use. The worst trailer I have is an ifor williams with low profile tyres (to reduce the loading height), and even though it has suspension, it has a high load capacity, so the tyre pressures are high, and when towed with no load on it jars and bounces over every lump in the road.

Alastair

No problem, had mine off last year to change cam belt. Still hoping I might make the f&c run, work allowing.

Alastair

Top pipe (of the two big ones) on Apollo connected to filter housing connection nearest block on mine. R300k

 

 

Alastair

"As an aside, I've sourced the following ear defenders, +90db or whatever the exhaust is for the trip down, the chippy run and the trip home I suspect won't do my long term hearing any favours. "

 

Too late now but I have bluetooth stihl ones for work and they are excellent, and would also be able to be used with phones as a makeshift intercom.

Did the tensioner fail or loosen do you think? Probably difficult to tell exactly what happened.

 

Alastair

We waved... on our way to Dursley for Gloucestershire U9's rugby festival. We also waved to Millwood on our way past!

Yes, the outside wears significantly more on the front tyres on trackdays, and usually one side more than the other depending on the circuit. Rears wear more evenly.

Alastair

Straight on to the nose. Sounds like you must have a more streamlined process than over here, we have to submit the paperwork from the IVA at a different location (or we did when I registered mine in 2002!!)

Linky

is this what you are looking for? Shows compatability with some Peugeot models. Alastair

I would run through this with CC on the phone before you get too disheartened, they may have some ideas that we don't.

Great work Chris C, and feel for you Ctr. You would have thought it would have to be some pretty obvious damage to be giving such a consistent earth with no water about.

No that's not right. Can you take the lens cover off the light, take the bulb out and check the two again.

I think my money is going to be on faulty led unit in the reverse light. Assuming it is led.

If you have more spare fuses it may be worth trying leaving the short bodge wire in and disconnecting the reverse light see if the fuse still blows. (May narrow down the section of loom to look at).

It's not the switch at fault then. Before you completely rule it out, check that there is no way that the piece of wire you used could have touched ground by mistake, otherwise you could be going on a wild goose chase. Now you are going to have to do as Chris C suggested and disconnect the brake lights and check the loom sections for ground.

Ok this may not be the done thing, but is what I would do to rule out the switch. Assuming you can spare another fuse, get a short length of wire and bodge a connection between the two pins on the loom where it would connect to the switch, thus bypassing the switch and see if the reverse light works. Just remember to reconnect the loom to light connection first. If it works ok then it is definitely the switch.

In the absence of a wiring diagram you need to work out were the supply is coming from. If as Ian has said it is going first to the light and then to the switch it gives you an idea of where to start looking for problems. Now you have all the connectors disconnected, can you turn the ignition on and test all the loom connectors to find out where the 12v supply comes from.

Alastair

Does this thread help?

https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/mazda-5-speed-connections

I don't know the answer to that I'm afraid. Hopefully someone who does, will be along shortly to tell you if the black one is correct.

If as Jim says there are two connectors at the gearbox end, I think you need to check that it is connected to the right one. (Easier said than done probably)!

Usually just remove two screws holding the lens on and then you can take the bulb out. As above it will be the side that dims when you brake that needs turning. Yes brake light is brighter.

Assuming you have standard bulbs and not led rear lights, the brake/side light is one bulb with two filaments, one contact for each filament. It sounds like one of the bulbs has its brake filament contact touching the side light post, so if you take the bulb out, and turn it around so that the contacts reverse it should correct the problem.

Re the reverse fusing, in post #48 you say that you disconnected the econoseal plug to the reverse switch, tried the brakes and then put it in reverse and the fuse blew. Had you reconnected the econoseal when you did this?

Sounds like one of the brake/side bulbs in the rear light unit may be the wrong way around, the one that dims on braking just needs turning 180 degrees in the bulb holder.

 

Alastair

Anthony, I replaced the starter on my jeep last year, a pig to get to. When I went to start it, the fuse blew for the ignition. Supplying company were little help, so out it came again. In this instance it was the terminal they added to make the jeep ignition feed plug and play, this was shorting against the terminal next to it. I had to remove The one from the old starter and all was well. Sounds like yours may not be that simple, but might be worth a look all the same, if your live is feeding back to the solenoid.

Alastair