Grandmaster Flatcap

I plan to bodge up replacing the K-Series ageing rubber hoses with silcon ones over the winter. Whilst it's drained I though I'd replace the thermostat, which led me down a rabbit hole to Seven and Classics Remote Thermostat Kit.

Anyone used one? Any good? A pointless upgrade?

Thanks!

I'm convinced my immobiliser is stuffed and would happy bin it,but don't know how messed up the ECU would be. 

I've posted on a thread on usa7s.net that is sharing a "how to remove an immobiliser" doc, but they're reluctant as my account on there is new. 

Morning all.

A quick question for the folks who know thier way around ECU's. I've an Emerald with a custom written map. Threads here on blatchat are thin on the ground but from what I can see there is just a tick box in the Emerald software that says use immobiliser yes/no. Is that correct? And if so, if the Emerald is set to not use the immobiliser, does the immobiliser need to be removed or can it just be left under the dash and wired into the loom?

(background is I think the immobiliser is stuffed and is the root cause of the issues I have when turning the FIA key on and some recent refusals to start)

Despite being told not to, the last numpty to balance my wheels stuck the weights on the polished face. The weights have now been removed but have left behind a black foamy gunk backing. What's the easiest way to get rid?

Ta.

Parked at Babbacombe Model Village.

You had the only car that was to scale

@p.mole, have you fitted R888 or R888R?

With much regret I have to say goodbye to my much loved AO21's, as my last set is on the wear line.

Front first and carpet offcuts 

Preston bound on the Penwortham bypass around 1000 this morning. I was in the Silver E91 Beemerin and of you 

Rob, I've a pair that have been bent out using the hot water method to give a better deflection. BM me an offer if you are interested.

I'll take a random punt.

Are you on Windows? If so, have you set the Windows local to UK, and the Windows Keyboard to UK?

A couple of Rehab chaps bored in the 50mph average speed section of the M6 in Cheshire.

(Why is everyone's garages bigger and tidier than mine?  )

I managed it, and I'm an idiot 

 ...take it to a Caterham specialist...

The garage involved IS a Caterham specialist / dealer...

i went to see the car on the ramps on the way home from work. It is all a bit cramped in there, what with the 3&4 primaries, the alt', oil filter, engine mounts, Apollo sandwich plate and plumbing.

The alt' was slackened off and free to move, but there is no way to get the cable plug off the back of the alt'. they also say they can't get to the back bolt on the alt' to remove it. They believe the only way to replace the cable is to remove primary 4 (then heating it with a torch and "scalloping" it with a hammer whilst it is off).

i will phone them this morning with the alt' mod suggestion, and see how they take it.

This from the garage

Mines blue with a bit of green. Just the normal black bits - boot, roll bar. I assume it would be me though..

My first spotted

*** Holy thread resurrection ***

Here, post #30

Anyone who bought a PowerSpeed Exhaust (for a K-Series S3) have the issue that the foremost primary is so close to the alternator that it is melting the wires?

Manchester screwdriver

"if it can't be fixed with a hammer and a screwdriver, then it can't be fixed" - ex Britsh Gas fitter of my acquaintance (from Wigan, not Manchester) 

JK, no joke.

From the very dodgy photo they've texted it is the thick cable.

Car back with the garage today...

Alternator - they believe the problem was caused by the foremost exhaust primary being mm's from the cable exiting the Alt' and that over time the cable has cooked and become brittle. The symptoms as reported are caused by a gap in the cooked cable opening under engine vibration at high RPMs. Plausible?

(their proposed solution is to tw4t the primary with a hammer to dent it away from the the replacement cable...) Any better ideas?

Diff oil leak - No idea as the Diff "facing", seal and half-shaft are pristine. They are putting in a new seal on a hope and prey basis. 

Overcooling - this stopped as the air temp fell back to low/mid 20's. Do stats open varying degrees? Could it be that the stat is only sticking when it opens fully to cool the engine when the ambient air temp is too hot to cool the engine, but when air temp is lower it only needs to open a little and does not stick?

Alternator - no change. As engine approaches 4k revs light starts to flicker. As engine speed increases light becomes constant. The garage that replaced the alternator belt before I set off are going to get the chance to look at this as a warranty item whilst they look at :

Diff Oil Leak - the car was serviced before I set off. The garage was also asked to sort the diff seals as the MOT had reported a weeping seal. The garage have replaced the seals in exchange for a hefty bill, only now it's dropping far more oil than it was before they "fixed" it. I am very, VERY unhappy with them at the moment.