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Posts posted by nickhi
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Great, thanks Andrew.
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Hi,
Does anyone know the Thread size for the top mounting for the Inertia Reel Seat Belt ? I can't find this in the manual.
Thanks
Nick.
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Looking to get some of the NS2R tyres myself. On the Nankang website they indicate 23 to 27 psi Hot pressure setting for vehicle less than 800kg .
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I have the same spec car and had similar issue a year or so ago. The Tps voltage is set to 0.38 v for site 0.0. It shouldn't vary at idle maybe the TPS is loose. I found mine was a little loose and when applying throttle the TPS sensor would move slightly resulting in a momentary lower voltage reading and hence non linear input to the ECU which I think caused mine to stutter. I first set the idle then adjusted the TPS to give site 0.0. It was a bit of an iterative process. Been rock solid ever since.
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Hi, I would like the Fuel gauge please if still available.
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Hi,
Thanks for the info. Car has done just over 14,000 miles. I checked at full open throttle and the site read just on 15.2 so I guess I have the full range ok, but as mentioned maybe just a little tweak at the low end to settle things and hopefully stop the 'dithering'. Thanks for the note about not overdoing the TPS screws.
I can't see any splits in the hose, but will probably replace as it's an easy maintenance job. Any recommended source of pipe?
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I am trying to diagnose/check my Throttle Position Sensor, I have searched Blatchat but can't quite seem to find the info that I think I need relating to a Sigma 125 2013 vintage, standard single Throttle Body. I have a little problem when the engine is idling, applying the throttle pedal the car seems to stutter and kangaroo momentarily resulting a bit of a jerky moment. Once the pedal is pushed a little further it seems to be fine.
So I have been looking at the TPS using Easimap and monitoring the Throttle Site and Throttle Angle and trying to figure out if these are correct. I am no expert in this so apologise for my potential numpty questions. As I understand it the TPS is basically a variable Resistor and the ECU measures the voltage at the wiper which essentially gives the Throttle position (I believe this is the Throttle Angle in Easimap). This is then related to a Throttle Site. So using Easimap with ignition on but car not running I seem to have a Throttle Angle that seems to flicker between 0.4 and 0.39 (occasionally 0.41). This then seems to result in a Throttle Site flickering between 0.1, 0.5 and 1.0. I have also noticed that the Throttle Site can flicker between 0.5 and 1.0 without the Throttle Angle voltage changing. I have also managed to get to Throttle Site 0.0 (Throttle Angle indicated 0.39) momentarily.My question is, are any of these numbers/readings correct. If not does anyone know what they should be so that I can possibly adjust the TPS so that I am in the right area. I suspect that the TPS needs replacing so any setup info would be most helpful.
Many thanks.
Nick -
Hi Peter
I recently had the ultralight flywheel and clutch from Premier Power fitted in my 2013 Sigma 125bhp. Makes the car much more responsive when accelerating, feels like more power even though I know its the same. Gear shift for me is also a lot smoother. Stuart at Premier also a real pleasure to deal with. Happy to answer any questions.
Cheers Nick.
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I had a similar problem. Stuck it back together with superglue and clamped it for a few hours. Still holding several months later.
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Shame to hear you're selling Roger.
Great Spec car for someone.
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I also fitted the same bulbs as Frosty linked, again in 5 3/4" bowls. I find them a huge improvement over the standard bulbs, would imagine you'd also see the improvement with 7" lights.
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I would think to swap from Sigma to Duratec would probably head over 6-7k, depending on where you source the engine and how much of the work is DIY. Could always recoup some from the sale of current engine. Maybe look at the price comparison between your car and a similar spec R400 of the same vintage. I'm guessing the difference may be some of the way there already, if so the price of sentiment seems a bargain.
Interested to know if anyone has done this swap
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I had a similar issue (Roadsport 125 3 years old). The Battery didn't seem to hold charge for more than a few days and failed to start a couple of times. Luckily I also have one of the small phone sized Lithium Batteries (I always carry it in the 7 just in case). I recently replaced the Battery and now starts bang on every time.
It may be worth checking the parasitic Battery Drain just in case there is an issue somewhere. Mine's just on 25mA.
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I removed the wooden base in the boot (four screws I remember) and used an engine hoist to lift it up into place. This made it easy to get underneath to position it without the jack etc in the way.
Nick
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I had the same problem with the sticky pads. Plate fell off a couple of times and always felt wobbly especially on hot days. I got some heavy duty Velcro, it now feels very secure.
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Hi, BM sent.
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At the recent Throckmorton club event Caterham had a Supersport R as a static display. This had a different H pattern and I got the impression from one of the guys that it was the Mazda box. So I guess they must be some way down the line of marrying it all up. It wasn't clear if it was going to be an option or a replacement.
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I have standard ones and noticed a big difference when 'bent' further out, however I do find they flap about a bit, tried crunching up the hinges a bit but not really solved it. Any ideas.
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I currently have a Roadsport 125 with a Motolita 11" Steering wheel. I've been offered a MOMO Steering wheel and want to give it a try. I'm guessing I will need to change the Boss. However, there seems to be a large range of Boss kits, does anyone know what the specification is for attaching to the Caterham Steering top shaft or is there a Caterham part Number. I've seen and adapter to convert between Momo and Motilita wheels but would rather just fit a new Boss.
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I fitted Nylon during my build last year. Went through IVA with no problems. Not sure if it's something that gets checked or effects the IVA though.
I did find the job a bit fiddly and awkward and managed to strip/break a few of the Nylon bolts so possibly make sure you have some spare.
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Built mine last year and like Grubbster didn't cross the cables behind pulley. So far it's passed PBC, IVA and Service no one has mentioned it so far. Handbrake works fine so am now curious as to why the cables should cross and what is the benefit?
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Can I take first dibs on the pair of wind deflectors please. Will send mail.
Nick
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Reported the leak to CC as I was also having trouble with gear shift into 2nd. I dropped the car in and couple of days later I now have a new gearbox and smooth gear shift and a nice clean garage floor.
Great service form CC, really pleased with the result.
Drilling for poppers for Half Doors
in TechTalk
Posted
If you don't have the half doors yet, I would get those first before drilling. I recently got some new half doors and they're about an inch short of the studs on the scuttle, despite my old doors and tonneau fitting nicely.