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JohnCh

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Posts posted by JohnCh

  1. Jim,

     

    I am running the Ford viscous coupling unit from the Sierra. I believe some people are using these in Caterhams (I have a Westfield) but for a new car you are probably looking at either a plate-type LSD from the factory or a Quaife. Consequently I am not sure how much relevance my observations have with respect to noise and clunking. That said though, the only time I am aware that I made the change is when I accelerate out of a corner...or do donuts ;-)

     

    -John

     

    Throttle Steer

  2. Jim,

     

    This summer I upgraded my car from a 120hp crossflow to a 190hp Duratec. I never really missed having an LSD with the crossflow, but traction became a huge issue with the Duratec, so I installed one at the end of the year. The LSD was a great addition and has made the car a lot more fun to drive. Highly recommended!

     

    -John

     

    Throttle Steer

  3. I just replaced my A032Rs with Toyo T1-S in preparation for USA2005. They're quite light (although I don't believe they are quite as light as the CR500) and early impressions are very favorable. Size & weight data is available here.

     

    -John

  4. I have never felt the need for a self cancelling feature when I drive the car, but it seems that none of the other people who drive it can ever remember to do it manually. Since one of those people is my wife and she doesn't like me telling her how to drive ("honey, The turn signal is still on") I think it will come in handy :) I really bought this unit for two reasons, the first of which is pretty stupid:

     

    1) for some inexplicable reason I wanted steering wheel mounted turn signal buttons and the only ones I could find that I liked were momentary style which won't work with the standard setup. I tried to find a circuit that would enable a momentary button to act as an alternate action switch, but I couldn't find anything without the self cancelling feature that wasn't really bulky or obscenely expensive.

     

    2) I liked the brake light feature. At first I thought the strobe-light effect would annoy those behind me, but then I realized that I would rather annoy the guy in the SUV behind me who has one hand on his cell phone and the other on his latte (oh the joys of living in Seattle) than have him rear end me while approaching an intersection.

     

    BTW I went home at lunch to take care of puppy duty and discovered that if the right signal is on and I push the left button, then it will switch to a left signal rather than turn on the hazards as I guessed earlier.

     

    -John

     

    Throttle Steer

  5. I just performed this conversion a couple of days ago. I looked at the unit from Signal Dynamics, but I didn’t like the fact that you need to remember to hold down the button for different lengths of time depending on how long you want the signals to operate before canceling. I finally came across a brilliant little unit manufactured here in the States but typically not sold to the public (he prefers an OEM model, but quite frankly I don’t think he is pushing this item at all). The signals self cancel after 15 seconds, but the countdown clock doesn’t begin until after the brake pedal is released. You can also cancel the signals at any time by pressing the button again and pressing both buttons at the same time will operate the hazards. Lastly it has a very interesting safety feature that flashes the brake lights 3 times upon initial application to alert the person behind you that you are actually on the binders. I opted to hook up the last feature just to my roll bar mounted brake light, but you could just as easily set it up to work on all the brake lights.

     

    When I mentioned to the owner that there was a small, but untapped opportunity with the Se7ens and Cobra kit car market, he asked me if I would like to become a dealer. If the unit lives up to my expectations, I may take him up his proposal and offer a group buy to BlatChat and WSCC. Pricing would most likely be around $65 although I may ask if he can modify the unit to add some user adjustability (length of time before the unit cancels, adjustable audio output, etc) which would affect the end pricing. Is this something that would appeal to folks?

     

    Thanks,

    John

     

    Throttle Steer

  6. Here are the dimensions for the Golf rad I am using. The matrix is 430 x 325 and the matrix with header tanks is 525 x 325. Add 7mm to the width for the fan switch bump out located about 150mm up from the bottom, and add 5mm to the height where the header tanks join the matrix. let me know if this doesn't make sense.

     

    Cheers,

    John

     

    Throttle Steer

  7. I am running the rad from an '85 1.3L Golf in my Westfield (VW part no. 171121253CJ). It is the same external dimensions as the Polo rad, and shares the same header tanks, but is a dual core so it offers additional cooling. Mine weighed in at only 1.755kg, which is 5.735kg lighter than the boat anchor that came with the car!

     

    -John

  8. Does anyone know the flow rate of the stock injectors for a 2.0L Duratec? I am switching to higher flow units and need to know the flow of my originals so I can update my Emerald map without having to start the tuning process from scratch.

     

    Thanks,

    John

  9. Make that 5 posts *biggrin* I opted for the 2.0L since the power & torque potential seemed more than enough for me, and I felt it would be a little more rev happy with the shorter stroke. BTW the car returned this weekend from the shop that built the roll over bar and exhaust manifold. A few photos are located here

     

    -John

     

    Throttle Steer

  10. I haven`t had the key way mods done at the moment.

     

    When I ordered my bits from Raceline, I asked Chris about the necessity of the key way mod. He told me not to worry about it while I am still running the stock cams, however, once I upgrade to the 220hp spec (next winter?), then it's mandatory.

     

    John

     

    Throttle Steer

  11. I recently applied epoxy paint to my garage floor (you can see it a bit in this photo) and did a lot of research first on how to achieve a tough, long lasting finish. I learned that the 2-part epoxies are regarded as best, but preparation is considered the key to a surface that won't lift over time. Based on positive feedback, I bought Rustoleum's Garage Floor Paint kit at Home Depot, which includes 1 gallon of 2-part epoxy, colored paint chips to give the floor a terrazzo look, and a citric acid based etching compound to prep the floor. Note: I opted to use muriatic acid rather than the citric acid supplied with the kit, since the former is reportedly more aggressive.

     

    I started off cleaning the floor with a concrete stain remover to eliminate the grease/oil spots, and then followed with muriatic acid to etch the concrete and give the paint a grippy bonding surface. After using a big squeegee to remove the excess water, I let the floor dry for a day before applying the paint and paint chips. The whole process took the better part of the weekend and cost about $200 to prep & cover my 675 sq/ft floor. The downside is that you need to keep cars off the floor for 1 week (you can walk on it after 1 day and begin to put heavier items on it after 2-3 days), but the results were worth the effort.

     

    -John

     

    Throttle Steer

     

    Edited by - JohnCh on 14 Oct 2003 15:26:49

  12. Thanks for that......have you installed yours yet?

     

    Kind of *wink* The engine is blocked in place, but I am still waiting for the proper engine mounts and exhaust manifold to arrive from Raceline. I spoke with Chris this morning and he thinks they will ship later this week. 😬

     

    -John

     

    Throttle Steer

  13. The flywheel on my 2.0L Duratec weighed in at 12.270 kg versus the replacement Raceline piece (not their ultra light version) at 4.705 kg. The stock pressure plate and clutch, however, were a bit lighter than the replacement AP pieces at 3.330 kg vs. 4.290 kg and 0.924 vs. 1.180 respectively. I have listed the weights of a few more Duratec and Raceline pieces here

     

    -John

     

    Throttle Steer

  14. I am trying determine the actual spacing of the 4 bolts that attach the adjustable seat runners to the floor of a Caterham. I am planning to buy MOG seats (which use that same spacing) for my Westy and I want to make sure that the new holes I must drill will line up with the car's existing floor reinforcements.

     

    Thanks,

    John

     

    Throttle Steer

  15. Where did you obtain your 2.0L duratec?

    I went through Gerry Dedonis (dedonis@kans.com) at Kansas Racing Products. He was great to deal with and I wouldn't hesitate to buy an engine from him again. If you contact Gerry, tell him I sent you and also please let him know that it looks like the motor will finally go in next month (I bought the thing in November 😳).

     

    -John

     

     

     

    Throttle Steer

     

    Edited by - JohnCh on 14 Apr 2003 02:23:26

  16. Chris,

     

    A couple things to keep in mind as you decide between the Euro 2.0 and 2.3 engine from the Ranger. If you don't plan to change the internals, then the smaller engine has some advantages: the cams are more aggressive (the truck engine is designed for low-end torque, not high-end power) and it has a higher compression ratio (10.8:1 vs 9.7:1). Because of these differences, and because it seems to me that with the shorter stroke the 2.0 will be smoother and rev better, that's the version currently sitting in my garage awaiting transplant into the Westfield. Hopefully Raceline will ship my conversion parts next week 😬

     

    -John

    Seattle, USA

     

    Throttle Steer

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