RedCat7

Has anyone dealt with this problem?  Any pitfalls to avoid when replacing the gasket?

Looks like a simple job. 

Caterham part is ~£60, as is the Ford part using the reference number 1141575.

Other brands are more like ~£10.  Any recommendations?

Jim

A 420 would be my recommendation, with the roller barrel upgrade for the noise and throttle response.  I have an older sigma 150 which has similar performance to a 310 and sounds even better due to having throttle bodies.  The engine is the best thing about the car - revvy and noisy with lightning throttle response.  However you do have to work the engine hard to make progress.  I don't mind that but have never had a torquey car in the past.  On track, instructors have mentioned I could do with more power and it is frustrating to be slow on the straights and not having the torque to steer using the throttle.  I once drove a 420 on the road and was surprised by how much quicker it was.

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/gearlevers/90-gearlever.html?search_query=Gearlever&results=7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/aSPjQRQkKjENR5vf9

Currently set to standard throw but I can reasmble to quickshift if requested.   It's simply a case of dismantling (circlips), shuffling things around to change the leverage and then re-assembling.

Bought it from Caterham as a quickshift upgrade, only to find out that it was the same as the standard (2011) lever.

£60 including delivery.

Measured:

14" Minator with ZV3 13.1 kg.

14" Minator with R888R 14.3kg.

Researched:

13" Apollo 4.16/4.76 kg.

13" ZZS 7.65/8.80 kg.

13" CR500 6.05/7.03 kg.

Forum removed my carriage returns :(

Yeah, in the past I thought the exhaust was rattling but it turned out to be the seat runner handle on the chassis rail.  Which I cured with a strip of sticky backed foam.

In this case though it's a silent buzz felt through the steering wheel.

Yep.  The vibration is engine speed related.  At say 60mph I'd feel a buzz in 3rd but not 5th. 

Any tips for doing this on a 2011 Sigma SV 5-Speed?

Engine mounts appear straightforward using a trolley jack for engine gearbox support.  Tacking care not to lift the engine more than a few mm so that the exhaust doesn't clash with the side skin.

What about the gearbox?

One at a time while the rest remain tight or loosen them all off, replace and then tighten up in one go as though doing an engine install?

The reason for replacement is that I had an engine vibration through the steering wheel at higher revs.  Had it for years but it's got worse and the engine mounts appear a little perished.  Nothing is touching the chassis or steering column than shouldn't be.

Jim

This works great for my short Dad

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-accessories/car-seat-covers-cushions/halfords-padded-seat-cushion-back-support

Ah ok sorry, I through that was a link to the same thread and my post hadn't worked!

Thanks for the other response and yes I am experienced, including Anglesey in 2016.

Hi James.  Is there a half day option?  I'm only able to make it in the afternoon.

Jim

My Adrian Flux policy is up for renewal so I asked to be re-quoted with the club discount applied and the free track day cover.

The response was that I already had the car club discount applied.  Fair enough, I thought that might be the case.

The track day cover added £90 (25%) to the quote, so it's not free but still good value.  Recently I have found separate cover from Moris has got expensive - about £200 a day!

Jim

Has anyone successfully used the vibra-technics mounts to reduce vibrations through the steering wheel? 

Also, does anyone understand why they are listed as imperial chassis?  On the Caterham parts website there is only one type and no mention of imperial/metric.

https://www.vibra-technics.co.uk/kit_car/caterham

​My 2011 Sigma SV 150 suffers from vibration through the steering wheel at 4K RPM+.  Always has.  Neither I nor Kendrick Motors have been able to find out why.

Jim

See Aerobod's solution here https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/any-way-recalibrate-fuel-gauge?page=1

I bodged in the resistors between the gauge terminals to see if it works 18 months ago.  It did and has ever since.

Interesting and good to hear that they are more comfy.  One of the positives of my old ZV3s was the softer ride when compared to the the R888Rs that I replaced them with.  I considered the Nankangs but assumed the XL rating would make them ride very harshly.

Worth noting that Angelsey don't normally hire out helmets.  

I was told to email their driving school (annette.freeman@angleseycircuit.com) to see I could use one of theirs.  A guy called Alf responded saying I could so I suggest anyone else who needs a helmet checks that there are enough available.

Jim

Reducing the tyre pressures should help.  Generally people seem to suggest around 17/18 psi.

I found the lower the better and settled on 17 psi (Avon ZV3 then Toyo R888R).

Mine does that.  The old plastic tanked radiator has the extra nipple for self bleeding.

Shame they didn't keep that feature for the newer alloy tanked radiator as it has caused me and others problems with air locks in the radiator.  http://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/150-sigma-expansion-tank

Last year I got a replacement for the Danfoss sensor from Caterham Parts for my Sigma 150.

Rather than Danfoss it is a Variohm EuroSensor EPT2100.

Came in a pack labeled CAERBONT PTTR2300-10KIT which included a redundant sub-loom which I assume is for another engine type.

Small one is 5/16 (8mm)

Large one is 5/8 (16mm)