Iain McCallum

Forgot to mention it is a Roadsport 150.

No idea if the attached helps, but it is from my 2010/2011 fixed cam Sigma build

A long time ago, but this is how i connected mine up:

Car                         Caterham RoadSport SV 150BHP (1.6 Ford Sigma) with a standard Caterham fitted Caerbont Automotive Tachometer

Connections       Red in the DRE to Green

                                Green in the DRE to White with Black tracer

                                Blue in the DRE to Black

                                All the connections are in the multi-plug behind the tachometer

Set the DRE to 4 CYLs but with Stall not activated

I use the lead purchased from SBD and the free Easimap software

https://sbdmotorsport.co.uk/product/mbe-map-kit-3-can-basic-can-mapping-kit-for-mbe-can-based-ecus 

The lead is VERY expensive now but there will probably someone local to you who has one you can borrow.

I have a Sigma 150 and recently had cause to replace the radiator for a Radtec and larger fan. I haven't really noticed the symptoms you are getting with the temperature variance on your 140, but with the new larger rad the gauge temp dropped from 80 to 70. 

However when I look at the temps via the ECU (Easimap) I see that the actual running temp is 80 (when gauge says 70) and the fan kicks in at 101 (when gauge is 90). No mods done to the ECU or senders so everything standard.

Might be worth using Easimap to calm everything down!

Iain

What does Easimap say the revs are? That is the 'normal' way we compare readings.

I couldn't find any torque figures when i did mine, so just did them tight! It is a non-stressed part so no issues.

I got the Soft Bits for Sevens Tunnel Bag, which did the trick for me.

it is just the belt tensioner and can be removed easily. Mine was rattling a lot so i just peened over the edges to take up the slack. Easy and cheap! 

Have a look at these for the lower ones from Car Builder Solutions. So much easier to get located.

i have also just bought some spare keys (not from SBFS), but i found that they didn't engage properly due to the 'barrel' being too long. I just filed down the end of the key  (by quite a lot!) and it now fits fine but not as 'free' as the original. Fine as a spare though.

When I changed to 1144 on the front (to stop the rears locking first) they squealed a lot when cold. This has been cured by chamfering the edges and slots. MOT just passed with no problem as well.

hi there,

I have exactly the same headlamps that I am trying to replace. Has anyone found a source for the correct grommet to fit the sidelight holder, or do i have to replace the actual bulb holder?

Cheers Iain

Going back to basics i presume you have checked that the alternator is ok? Battery voltage should increase to around the 14 mark when the engine is running.

Iain

Paul, your mailbox is full!!

I have for sale a Soft Bits for Sevens vinyl half hood for an SV fitted with an FIA (Trackday) bar.

It has only been used in anger about 3 times so in pretty new condition. It also includes the fitting kit for the boot straps and poppers for the side straps.

SV car measurement from front edge of screen to middle of roll bar is 89cm and the height of the roll bar is 38cm.

Cost will be £100 plus postage or pick up from Stockport area.

Hi Dave,

Mine was replaced a bit ago on my Sigma 150. It is a Danfoss MBS 1350 (063G1333)

Cheers Iain

The MBE Easimap software is free, but the connection lead costs about 100 notes, so be prepared! A local owner to you might lend you one though. Where are you based?

Iain

I fitted these to my 2011 Sigma and these are the connections/instructions i used (to the back of the rev counter)

Connections       Red in the DRE to Green

                                Green in the DRE to White with Black tracer

                                Blue in the DRE to Black

                                All the connections are in the multi-plug behind the tachometer

Set the DRE to 4 CYLs but with Stall not activated

Initially I didn’t think it was working correctly because I couldn’t get the revs to display on the DRE (held down the UP button while turning on the ignition) eventhough it displayed 0000 initially it then went blank.

Checked the unit by lowering the first light to come on at 2600 and this proved it was working correctly.

Cheers Iain

Way back in 2011 when I built my 150 Sigma I had the same issue on initial startup. Caterham fixed it at the PBC by balancing the throttle bodies and then setting the TPS to 1.04. They assured me that was all they did! I now do this every year!!

Sorry you are having that problem. 

Iain

I found the information I sent to DRE when i got mine working on my Sigma way back 7 years ago!:

Car                         Caterham RoadSport SV 150BHP (1.6 Ford Sigma) with a standard Caterham fitted Caerbont Automotive Tachometer

Connections       Red in the DRE to Green

                                Green in the DRE to White with Black tracer

                                Blue in the DRE to Black

                                All the connections are in the multi-plug behind the tachometer

Set the DRE to 4 CYLs but with Stall not activated

Initially I didn’t think it was working correctly because I couldn’t get the revs to display on the DRE (held down the UP button while turning on the ignition) eventhough it displayed 0000 initially it then went blank.

Checked the unit by lowering the first light to come on at 2600 and this proved it was working correctly.

Hopefully these will assist!!

Mark didn't have a meter but suggested the sub loom as this nearly mirrored my Sigma oil pressure issue.

Glad it is fixed now Mark!

Cheers Iain

Hi Mark,

I had similar issues with my Sigma oil pressure gauge reading erratically, so i ordered a new sender from Redine (Danfoss 1350) but i found that the connector to the chassis wiring was not making good contact, so i cleaned it, pushed it back together, and covered with insulating tape. Worked perfectly ever since!

You can find it under the inlet throttle bodies just by the oil filter.

Iain

The rerouting of the brake line is together with the replacement diff carrier. On my 2011 Roadsport SV, the brake line (which is just placed wherever you liked in the original build) was about 2 mm from the 'ding' on the dedion caused by the diff carrier bolt head! The new brake line is just bent around where the bolts would hit, although the new carrier would not have the same problem as the bolts are recessed.

If that help!

Iain

Hi Tim, I have a new longnose shower cap and the brackets with the Merlin Motorsport mirrors and everything fits fine. A bit tight on the front edge of the mirror bracket, but fien and dandy! Iain