DaveMorris

JB, I've run a S/sprint type spec x-flow for last 20 years or so - have had a 74 degree stat fitted throughout (which the Academy boys from whom I purchased the car also had fitted ) and all has been fine.

Engine is now 1700cc with quite a bit of porting, valve mods, roller rockers, injected, and still retains the 74degree stat., and no issues (apart from  the longevity (or not) of the Radtec Alu radiators)),

D

Tom,

you wrote "I'd like to get the definitive instruction on oil filling level as advice seems to vary according to manufacturer. "

I have same (Pace) tank and have always been advised to have oil level just below the first visible plate (the one with the large holes in it) when engine is running at tickover.

This ensures good de-aeration of the oil in the DS tank.

Has worked fine for me and my x-flow for last 10+ years,

Dave.

Spotted by a friend of mine a few days after I flew back to the UK.

I don't see many Se7ens in Portugal - well, not down south.

Might take mine down there next year at some point in the Autumn when it's cooled down a bit.

D

Nick, didn't get round to searching tonight (stopped as soon as I found the Vx d/s tank lid), but will hopefully get/make time tomorrow for a search in "loft 2" (which I think is where I put all the old tonneau stuff that I decided to keep after my last sort-out), Dave

Graham, after an evening spent searching various of my stashes of Caterham stuff I think that I might have found a small box of unobtainium in one of the lofts. Can you PM some contact details so that I don't have to do battle with uploading a picture to here. Dave

Nick, quite possible I'll have a spare one somewhere. Do you need one with pockets for headrests ?

D

If it is a long time since the car has been run and/or the heater matrix has got wet due to ingress of rain (etc) then when the engine (water) gets warm it will cause the matrix to dry off - a possible reason for the fumes you are seeing.

I have seen similar coming from the main radiator on my car before now.

As others have stated above - there are other potential causes.

D

Rupert, not wanting to jump in ahead of Andrew, but I have full system (manifold, 4-1 collector and silencer) available if you need it.

I'm not on here much these days - so if addition to any reply on here I would advise a p.m. also,

Dave

Graham. Yes, you should be worried. Assuming standard wet sujmp set-up then you do need additional baffling in teh sump to prevent too much oil "slosh" when cornering hard. For o/p to read zero on gauge it is highly likely that you are going to do damage to bearings. What is your normal o/p - cold @startup and warm/hot at both tickover and also at ~3000rpm.

Knowing these may give me, or others (as I don't get on here as much as I used to)  an idea if your pressures are normal or whether you may have already have done some damage.

Dave.

Graham, not sure this has been asked (didn't spot it) . . but where are you located, perhaps there are a few 16v Vx's in the area that you could take a closer look at.

Dave.

Stu - am I correct in thinking that is Micks car (on Mallorca) ? Or is another picture that you found of a nice shiny Caterham. D

Ralph, you obviously focus on the more important things in life - like the 7, rather than the more mundane things like shopping and doing the washing up :-)

Stu, putting that picture up is not really being fair on Felix. 

From what I remember that 7 is not skinned with Bruces standard grade Aluminium, and a whole heap of money was spent on the build. (I think from talking to the owner that his brakes cost more than the complete re-build of my car !!).

It's still gorgeous though and I'd love to go back and visit him one day - to see the beast up close.

Dave

I realise that these are not necessarily the favoured option, and that many people converted to remote D/S tank (with I believe a different sump pan) . .. but it's the set-up that I have and my sump pan has definitely seen better days (and I think is showing signs of a hairline crack).

Do any of you who have converted to the larger external tank have one of these taking up space in the garage/loft/shed ?

Dave.

I used the same type of thing on my interior + then a light wipe with WD40. (I have also used the green pan cleaners . . . use them on some old metal first to "take the edge" off them and then wipe across the Alu surface in nice straight lines.

In the engine bay a more liberal dosing of WD40 could be made.

Dave

I can't resisit any longer . . what are "Eccles Mirror Mounts". ??

Dave, what would be a reasonable offer for the Vx DS pump shaft (assuming of course that it is actually going up for sale), Dave M

a/. Will check inbox.

b/. Clive - if your colleague is used to running a Skyline I can imagine that a Pulsar would seem pretty small, and probably underpowered.

Dave

Rog, can you give me a call tomorrow evening . . I think I might just have what you're looking for in one of the "spares areas". Your call will spur me on to get out there and look (if I haven't already made time). 

(think they're silver, though I think I have a full set of black "Alley-Cats" aswell).  Dave.

Nissan Pulsar Gti-R (1991)

Japanese import in 1998.

Garaged/unused between 2001 and 2015.

Full mechanical strip down 2015 thru 2016, up to and including rear sub-frame.

Many parts replaced/overhauled including fuel/brake lines, brake calipers, pads, discs etc.

Engine stripped and rebuilt at “Torque of the South” w/ forged pistons, ACL bearings, Cosworth Head Gasket. So slightly better than original spec to ensure longevity, but not aimed at enabling super high power outputs.  Car running standard air filter (sourced from Japan).

Also running standard (refurbished) rims.

Non-standard springs/shocks fitted (BC coilover as a number of people recommended on Gti-R Motorsport Forum) as o/e items were beyond saving.

Flat floored and 4 wheel alignment at local specialist.  

Front wings and valence replaced and front end re-painted. Valence professionally wrapped in PPF.

Paintwork on rest of body showing its age with minor supermarket dings on doors, but no rust in evidence. In an ideal world it would have a full re-spray.  

The original umbrella is still there.

Alarm and immobiliser fitted. Two keys and fobs for alarm.

Odo currently showing 114,000.

Severe lack of use (see MOT history), need for space in the garage and money for impending Kitchen upgrade (you’ve heard that before I know) are main reasons for the sale.

Bad points – paintwork (as mentioned above) and minor synchro weakness between 2nd>3rd  or 4th>3rd. But something that I happily drive around. Longer term will need a gearbox overhaul.  

A number of spares are also available which will go with the car.

Looking for £7250, but as always willing to take sensible offers.

Pictures available.

I've gone mad and have CF Millwoods protectors WITH PPF ON TOP of the CF.

The PPF extends about 50mm above the top edge of the CF wing protector.

David, I can probably mail you some PPF . . slightly thicker than that which Dave and others now use . . but something which you could practice with.

You just need two solutions that you can spray onto the PPF and the surface that you're applying it to.

One is a 5-10% solution if IPA. (the "sticker" ).The other is a1-2% solution of liquid soap.  Then you need some type of applicator . . but some sort of rubberised squee-jee generally works. 

I have somewhere some brief instructions that I got from Dave W at PPG in a kit that he sent me some time ago. The good thing about PPF is that if it's looking bad or going wrong as you're applying it then you can just remove it, and bin the waste. Unfortunately good quality PPF is not cheap stuff to buy.

(To be honest - when I had my whole car done recently I paid Dave to do it. Simple bits I'm, sort of, OK at but complex curves are not for the faint hearted.)

Let me know via PM if you want some sending to Spain.

Dave

David, where are you based in Spain ?

Dave (Oswestry, Shropshire,  . . . .. occasionally in Bilbao and Sant Celoni).

Confirm. Mine's a 40105 . . .40 on one side of the mounting hole, 105 on the other. D

That's good enough for me. Thanks Roger.

Can now go and refit rocker cover so she's all boxed up for the night.

Ahh - further research shows that the small plate is probably the SBD mod for "high revving wet sumped engines"

Link http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Info_sheets/Oil_systems/VX%202L%20SBD%20Cam%20cover%20breathing%20modification.pdf

But still don't know what is best to use on a D/S engine.

D.