Silver Machine

One of the recommended solutions is drilling the thermostat. Before I drilled the thermostat my 1997 k series I regularly had air locks when changing coolant. Since I drilled the stat refilling is far easier and I don't seem to get any air locks. 

Update on replacement. Joints removed and replaced using aerodods method. This method allowed me to replace in situe rather than removing the wishbone. Passed MOT yesterday. So thanks again for advice on supply and fitting. During the work I noticed a very slight amount of coolant had leaked from the weld on my less than 12 month old Radtec radiator . So the work continues for this home mechanic.

Meant to say all sorted now except for one circlip as Caterham only had one in stock. By the way I tried to contact Redline yesterday with no success. 

Thank you SamC. All sorted no. Caterham are out of circlips so will try another source.

Bit of play on lower front bearing. Caterham have this part available. However a previous post suggested trying Nigel at Strand Bearings. Nigel who seems to be a very personable chap says he can help but would need some form of part number. Can you folks help with this. Many thanks.

Rimmer Brothers have been able to supply me with metal impeller and evaporation  chamber water pumps in the past. Ring them up to make sure they don't send you a plastic impeller version as they stock both.

In case I damaged the original caps I ordered two new ones from Caterham. Can't comment on the originals as they now have self tapped threads but the new ones definitely have no thread in the hole. Perhaps in the past the caps had a thread already tapped. Thanks again for all advice/guidance.

If buying a new jack check that its profile is low enough when you have a flat. 

Thank you both for your advice. Used a combination of self tapped screw and tapping with a hammer and screwdriver. Bearings now regreased and all back in place.

Thank you all for your guidance. Bearings now regreased and all back in place. 

Jonathan you are a star.  Used a self tapping into steel screw and it worked a treat. M

any thanks

Looking for some advice/guidance in removing the dust caps from the front wheel bearings. Car is a 1997 super sport. When I saw it done at a GTKY7 session the dust cap seemed to be compliant in removal. Mine has not been removed for a few years and seems reluctant to come away. New replacement dust caps should be arriving today so removing originals undamaged is not an issue. All advice gratefully appreciated.

Looking for some advice/guidance in removing the dust caps from the front wheel bearings. Car is a 1997 super sport. When I saw it done at a GTKY7 session the dust cap seemed to be compliant in removal. Mine has not been removed for a few years and seems reluctant to come away. New replacement dust caps should be arriving today so removing originals undamaged is not an issue. All advice gratefully appreciated.

Ed. The mechanical set up is a pipe that connects to a mechanical gauge. Pipe connects to where old sender was connected. So you need a new gauge connectors and some pipe. 

When I did mine most UK supplies of stretchy CV boots were to believed to have originated at or through Quinton Hazell This may or may not be the case now. It meant at the time I fitted mine they were all the same boot but branded accordingly.  

When replacing the boots on my 1997 Super sport several years ago I got in touch with Redline. They recommended the FCB5008 Duraboot. They are the stretchy ones that go over a cone to fit. Have done 10000 miles over several years and they still seem to be ok.

The Chaps at Redline said that with some suspension setups you can experience the failure as in post 4. At the time they said they had fitted the Duraboot to several Caterhams with no reported issues.

Once drive shafts are out it is a straight forward job. First side took me about 3 hours the second side just over an hour. Used the Alcester Racing guide to remove half shafts (not undoing hub nuts). I replaced all 4 boots while the shafts were out.

Endorse 2 to 5. I have a similar aged car and have gone to mechanical gauge. Symptoms you describe mirror the failure of my last electrical sender as it slowly died. Fitting a mechanical system is not a big job. 

I had similar damage to a 6 speed about 12 years ago. SP components of Redditch repaired the casing and 'refreshed' in innards. Mine went in what sounds a similar situation. Diagnoses was that the lay shaft had moved from where it should have been and made a bid to escape the casing.

No need to bleed. Gives immediate response even with the air in the tube.

Think your V5 document gives the permissible emission figures etc. If visual test then there will be nothing printed in this section of the V5. Think it is on page 2. 

I downloaded each of the guides several years ago. My down loaded version from 2012 is the same as you describe in that it concludes after the distributor advice. Nothing about CV boots etc. Think current form is how it has always been.

American review of gasket sealants so actual brands may not be relevant. Explains different types and how to use/apply. Thought it might be of interest.

https://www.thedrive.com/reviews/31242/best-gasket-sealer

Have used PRO SEAL instant gasket. OK up to 260 degrees C. Comes in 85g tubes in various colours. Says it can be used to replace original cork, felt,paper,rubber and composite gaskets. I have never used it on the sump but it has fixed similar problems to yours in other locations.

!0 year old Halfords bike computer fitted to car. Still working. Current Halfords Bike computer fitted to road bike looks a bit different but I suspect has the same innards. Relitively cheap as well. Trust that all it needs to do is tell you what speed you are travelling at. My 1997 supersport has the old traditional Caterham Speedo., so it can be a bit of gueas how fast I am going.

Classic silicone hoses are worth looking at.