David Mirylees

Haven't used the lower nosecone fasteners for about 40 years. They are always a pain to use and it is guaranteed that you'll be on your knees when it's filthy and raining.
I removed the fasteners from the nosecone and bent the chassis tabs such that one 'hooks' the nosecone under the tabs and rotates it into it's correct location for fixing the upper fasteners. 
The nosecone will not be going anywhere plus the bonnet gives it extra security (obviously you can adjust the tabs to make it as tight as you like if you wish to).
Doddle to remove and replace 👌  

Appreciate that you don't need one - I didn't when I did mine but as someone mentioned this particular tool I assumed that it would be helpful information.

The Halfords ball joint separator currently (April 2024) is £40.99 
I purchased the same thing ten years ago for £11.99 and today doing an ebay search "Ball Joint Separator Splitter 20-50mm" results in a great number of these splitters from £12.99

Just as an aside: Having used this unit on many top ball joints and TR ends very successfully, I found years ago that by reversing the pivot point the tool can be used to push back caliper pistons on single piston brakes (in my case Volvo 940).

david

Ah, thanks Stu, that does make sense!

I haven't looked at the switches yet, I was just deciding if I could use some different switch units and was investigating before creating a disaster (old man with old car...)

:-)

Just looking at the post 1987 wiring diagram - in particular the rocker switches - and am at a loss to understand what the highlighted 'termination' means?

Can anybody shed some light on it please?

Many thanks

david

I couldn't immediately see the model of Protex over-centre lockable latch (they are appx. 40 years old!) but a search on Google and a look at the images threw up a number of possibilities and these looked about right but I didn't see any size mentioned.
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/grayston-over-centre-panel-clips-243649/?sku=GRYGE65&istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=6fbc4b04-fd28-4ce1-8513-835c8f118690&istItemId=wptwlxamr&istBid=t&gclid=Cj0KCQjwusunBhCYARIsAFBsUP8h-r-PJfgpiRt9QRwgq9PYZiIznBAEt12Zrlq_F6ck1FfDX_7Owl0aAnGmEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

david

I have been using the lockable over-centre latches on my S3 since the early 80's. They don't come undone so playtime can be enjoyed without worry.   (I went through many adventures particularly with the rear latches become undone).
I obtained my latches from a company called Protex - I assume they still exist as they were/are a large supplier to the engineering industry.  They also fit the original mounting holes (well, at least mine did!)
I just use 'R' pins to secure them.

David

I have a long time friend and owner of a Caterham who has been running Evans waterless coolant for the last four or five years with no problems.

David

Cheers ECR,

Someone else had a 1991 rad but with the number S7358  but probably the same unit.  I think it was called a 'High Capacity' radiator which would make sense.

Thank you all for your help.

david

Thank you chaps.  General consensus is that it is indeed a CovRad item, The redacted sticker on the underside is almost unreadable (as obviously intended!) but I can just make out the part number "ACE 5...."  Further investigation now to update my listings  

David

Can anyone help me with information on where the radiator was sourced from in a 1988 Seven?

Cheers, David

 I have heard from Derek Howlett  (Caterham Tech)

"When we built these cars the standard spring rates were 105 Ibs front and 75 Ibs rear, we did do an upgrade which I have been informed was a better set up and that is 240 Ibs front 96 Ibs rear"

That makes sense to me as Mick at Redline sold me the (probably!) upgraded fronts in 1993 which would explain my running an 8 coil front spring!

It also makes sense that Redline are supplying 104 lbs rears which look pretty close.

Cheers,

David

Stephen - Good idea, sometimes the obvious is easily overlooked  

I have pretty much the same problem and am scratching everything trying to ensure I buy the correct springs. My chassis is a 1988  with everything bog-standard (eg. small anti-roll bar and cruciform top link)  
I need to replace the springs front and rear due to high mileage and wear but can't find the info on the rates anywhere (except maybe here!!) 
My car is a live axled (Ford) short cockpit and is a crossflow.

Any further info to the above would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Spoke to Burton today and they reckon that: As they don't have such an item for the Zetec, then they don't believe that one is required.

TBH there are no gaps - at least when using the Raceline sump.

dsm

Is the 'Dirt Plate' required (the thin metal plate that sits between the engine block and the bell housing)?

I had one on my crossflow but have never used one when I went Zetec. 

Just wondering as I've just remembered about it.

david

Still waiting...

Thanks Ian,

That's why I took everything back out straight away - didn't fancy b%%%%%%ing up the new motor etc when everything may have locked up!

Cheers, JP,

Box came out as soon as I confirmed to myself that it was box related. I wasn't sure as I'd just fitted a brand new Omex Zetec and the box had appeared to be OK prior to the new fit. The noise could have been there before but with carpet fitted and the usual spirited driving it would have been well disguised. (I recorded with carpet out but found with carpet fitted it wasn't so obvious)

david

Hi JV,

Yes, box was with Road and Race first thing on Wednesday am.  Unfortunately, at first sight, Phil couldn't see anything amiss but will be stripping it for a thorough examination,
Fingers crossed...

david

Ford Type 9 gearbox in Lotus 7 - Strange noise in third gear.
Sound recording here: https://youtu.be/KfmhOXpYKBA
(Ignore the video, I just laid the sound byte over it!  :-) )
Start off, 1st 2nd then 3rd - odd sound.
Beeping is indicator whilst turning.
Up shallow hill in 2nd then 3rd - odd sound again until recorder switched off.
Noise only appears in 3rd when under load.
Any idea as to what may be causing the noise?
(Volume needs to be UP to hear it)

https://youtu.be/KfmhOXpYKBA

Cheers

Solved:

After a thorough inspection by Road & Race it was discovered that the 3rd gear selector was bent and there were signs of contact with the 4th gear. A replacement selector and cleaning up of the possible high spots on the 4th gear have meant that the box is now silent! Top marks to Phil at Road & Race 'cos it wasn't at all obvious at first sight.  .

Ed. You could use the standard Zetec one. I had a Dunnell lightened (Zetec) unit which I used on the new motor.

Specialists on the Zetecs are Raceline and Dunnell.

david

Johnny, I didn't want to mess about so it just helps offset this Omex straight swap !!****$""£4$$4

david

Silvertop Ford Zetec 2.0L engine Whiting/Dunnell
Twin 45 Webers
Twin Throttle Linkage
K&N Filters
Dunnell Inlet Manifold
Dunnell Alloy Sump
Dunnell ECU & Software
Dunnell Wiring Harness
BHP 153 
Alternator
Engine Complete less clutch, flywheel and exhaust manifold (parts retained for new injected engine)
Engine removed to be replaced with a new Omex injected Zetec. 
Silvertop was performing like a train and now after 2 months of pain and wishing that I had never started the damned swap, I have got the Omex to fit in my 1988 chassis and is at least running.
Silvertop has been running in my Seven using the basic ECU setup ie. Coil, TPS, Crank Position. However the harness has all the wiring present for full use of the ECU.
Simple 3-wire connection to the Seven (Ignition/Tacho/Earth)
I was going to keep the Silvertop as a JIC spare but additional costs incurred with the Omex swap means that it isn't a practical option.
So this (almost) complete engine is up for grabs at a no-nonsense £1200
Collection from West Dorset.
David Mirylees 01305 266418
dmirylees@gmail.com