Drakman

A quick call out to the brains trust here,

Is there any measurable improvement (HP, Torque or drivability) obtainable by moving the fuel injector location from the cylinder head to the ITB's with Jenvey ITB's in a Duratec 2 liter? 

 As an aside is there any difference in using extended injector tip injectors.  I currently have Bosch green giant injectors located in the cylinder head, i have been thinking about going to ITB located injectors so i have to change the injectors to a shorter version to clear the air filter and the Bosch 380 cc high impedance, 12 Ohm extended tip version has been recommended.

Is there any information/data, dyno results either way on this?

Cheers

Dave

I guess this is what i would call ceramic coating?  I built a Norton 850 engine 20? years ago now and went a little over the top with ceramic coating things, Piston crowns, valves, combustion chambers, exhaust ports and exhausts, valve spring seats and inlet ports.  I expected the ceramic coating would peel off and blow out the exhaust but it is still going to this day.

My other vice/money pit is Mini Mokes.  I rebuilt a 1275 engine for my daily about 3 years ago and i had the pistons ceramic coated along with a lubricity (is that a word?) coating on the skirts and an anti heat coating under the crown of the pistons.  The exhaust extractors were done in a satin black and the inlet manifold in gloss black.  I am currently building another 1275 for my second Moke and it is getting the same treatment so i guess that means i vote yes for the specialist coatings.

Cheers

Dave

Thank you ducatidentist.  I wonder why they don't make one for the SV.

Are the Brooklands screens for a S3 or an SV?

I recently changed from a rear exit to side exit exhaust on my 2014 Roadsport and i used a 500R silencer which is rebuildable/repackable.  I was really surprised that it isn't excessively noisy.  I found the silencer in the USA, brand new for less than $400, just a thought.

I wasn't joking about how expensive these batteries are.

https://en.liteblox.de/shop/lite_blox-pr40xx-lightweight-battery-for-oem-industry/

Has anyone here used one of these batteries?

Very light weight but very expensive!

https://en.liteblox.de/shop/

Could also be the clutch throwout bearing and or mount. perhaps the clutch fork, if your car has one.  Input shaft bearing?  What gear box oil are you using, is it at the correct level?

What spring rates are you using, the camber change looks a bit excessive, perhaps the spring rate is a bit soft.  What is the toe, too much toe, in or out will wear the inside tyre as will excessive camber.

This might be of interest as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuI0hH2TuxQ

This is a good view of what happens with out of alignment tail shafts and velocity.

Hi Luke,  Just let me know a price for post to Queensland 4575.

Thanks 
Dave.

Hi Luke,

Could i ask you get a postage  cost to ship to me in Queensland Australia?  I understand completely if you don't wish to post O/S.

The trouble with postage costs these days is it make things way to dear through some of the major companies.  Maybe Royal Mail via the local Post Office.

Cheers

Dave

I am a cheapskate, i made my own using an oil filled gauge.  0 to 35 PSI for the Caterham and i have one for my off road race buggy 0 to 10 PSI.  I couldn't see the need to go higher than 35 PSI for the Caterham and the lower the gauge scale the easier it is to read.  I run mostly 18 - 20 PSI for the Caterham.

Thanks Shaun, I do have the Bosch green giants but they won't fit if i move the injectors to the ITB's.  It looks like i might need another fuel rail as well.

Can someone please let me know the part numbers for ITB mounted fuel injectors and fuel rail for use with the flat back air filter.  I'm guessing either 250cc or 330cc injectors.

Is there an advantage to placing the injectors in the ITB's over the standard head location?

I think you're right there 7 wonders and the problem was exacerbated by the carbon plates wearing so fast that the Belleville washers had to go way over centre to apply pressure to what was left of the friction clutch plates which makes them crack then break up.

The O. S. Giken Diff.

https://www.difflab.com.au/pages/os-giken-superlock-technology

I would be very interested in others thoughts on this diff for a Caterham.

I got some quotes to rebuild the Titan here, labour alone was $1500 - $2000 if all went well.  I wanted to supply the parts but was told they wouldn't guarantee the work unless they supplied the parts.  The decider for me was that no one here knows what a Caterham is, yes they can rebuild a diff but i wanted someone that knew the quirks of the Caterham.  I did a lot of reading about the different options for my car and after several emails and phone calls with Ollie at RRT i went with the Drexler.  

Another diff i was really interested in was the O.S Giken made in Japan i think.  This would have been my first choice but the OS Giken dealer here just wasn't interested in me at all, too busy with racing cars apparently.  I did get on to a company that sells the  O.S Giken in Italy of all places and the manager there was so helpful, he contacted the factory for me and was told they had made diff centres for the BMW 168? case in the past but none were available at that time but they were looking into making more in the future.

The O.S. Giken diff from memory uses coil springs as well, not Belleville washers.  I think Belleville washers are a weak link so coil springs are appealing to me.  My other car is a Leyland Moke and they use a large Belleville washer as a clutch spring and are a pain to set up properly to get them dead flat.

Cheers

Dave

https://www.difflab.com.au/products/bmw-168k-168lw-lsd-os-giken-superlock?_pos=11&_sid=fbcfc421f&_ss=r

Personally the reason i went with the Drexler is because i don't want to be pulling the diff out every couple of years for a rebuild.  Ollie at RRT believes they are the strongest longest lasting option for me.  I also considered the Wavetrac for the same reason, low/no maintenance other than oil changes.  I am considering sending my RS Titan LSD back to the UK for a rebuild by either Tracsport or RRT and that will be based solely on cost because it will be a spare that can be put back in when/if i sell this Caterham and get another.

I hope this comes out ok, It should be an explanation of the Wavetrac and why it seems like the best of the ATB diff centers.

Doc, that price included sending the diff to me in Australia, postage is not cheap!

The old saying "don't let my wife sell my toys for what i told her they cost" applies here.  The Drexler cost close to $7,000 which works out to roughly 3,500 pound. 

I think the Wavetrac would make a great option as a fit and forget diff, no plates to wear and it has a locking action the Quaife lacks.

I think everyone with a failed Titan LSD has agonised over this topic and read the over 30 pages, 600 posts here about them.

My thoughts were initially to go with the "Wavetrac" diff but in the end after "consulting" with Ollie at RRT I opted for the Drexler, set up by Ollie to his specs for a Caterham.  The Drexlers are used in BMW endurance racers and the like and have a reputation for being the strongest almost fit and forget diff out there.  I expect with yearly oil changes and the way i use my Caterham the Drexler will last a lifetime for me.

If i purchased another Caterham the Drexler would be a must have for me.

The only downside is the price.  I am in Australia so i couldn't just replace the diff centre, i needed the case and cradle/mount as well.

I do have a very low mile BMW Titan LSD with no pre load that i might be persuaded to part with, for the right price of course.   I bet there are a lot of people  here that can say the same thing.  I wonder if it might be worth while sending it over to RRT for a sintered plate rebuild.

Dave