Simon420R

3M Dual Lock is great stuff. I've used it for my numberplates for the last year. As has been said above you can move the car with the 'plates once in place. 

That clear coat is fantastic stuff. That's what I used for my carbon bow protector. As you say, a professional mask and skin covering is definitely need as it's carcinogenic. 

I repaired a damaged carbon bow protector a few months ago. The lacquer had cracked and chipped in transit. After a few YouTube tutorials I wet sanded the clear coat right back (make sure you don't go in too heavy or you'll hit the fibres), then reduced the grade of paper and did it a couple more times, eventually ending up with 2000 grit. Once sanded right back I wiped away any excess dust and applied 2k clear coat. Ensure you wear a mask and protect your skin. It's carcinogenic and you have to be careful. Again, YouTube helped me here on how best to apply it. The 2k will give a professional body shop quality gloss finish. The bow protector looked great when finished and it saved me buying a new one. 

If I ever need to repair a carbon wing I'd use exactly the same technique. It would only take an hour to prepare and it will be as good as now. 

The best product I've found for water marks is Koch Chemie FSE. It has a gentle limescale remover in it, which is perfect for removing water spots (it also acts as a great quick detailing spray as well). Spray it on, leave for about ten seconds and then buff off with a decent microfibre cloth. If the spots have been on for a while or are more ingrained into the clear coat you could try a decent polishing compound like Meguiars ultra finishing polish, either applied by hand or a dual action polisher, if you have one. 

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When I bought my Seven I had to hurriedly buy a phone mount from a service station. I got lucky with this one. It's very small so doesn't block the screen too much and has survived about 500 miles so far without coming loose. 
 

https://gadjetuk.com/product/suction-phone-holder/

I love a lightweight flywheel but in London traffic I never allow the engine to do my braking. The deacceleration is phenomenal but I tend to dip the clutch and use the brakes instead (LEDs all round, including a pair of lights mounted on my roll bar). It avoids rear-end shunts from tailgaters who aren't paying attention. Out on the twisties the engine braking is fantastic though. 

Likewise. Annoyingly A-Plan were fantastic to deal with when setting up insurance for my car but I'll not use them again if they stay with Markerstudy. Their reviews are horrendous. 

I remember digging out some lab studies on this subject a few years ago. Unfortunately I don't have the references anymore but there was some evidence of a slight increase in throttle response but no significant difference in over-all power output. I still use V Power simply for the cleaning additives though. 

Yep, they sound like good recommendations to me. 

I've used that for years in previous cars and figured it would be a good option for the Seven. Glad to hear you're using it with no problems. 

Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned that the vast majority of driving will be spirited road use with the occasional track day. 

I've been reading the discussions on oil temperature issues on the 420R with interest. I'm getting my new (to me) 2018 420R serviced soon and I was wondering if there's a general consensus on the best engine oil to use. I've usually favoured Millers and was thinking of going with their CFS 5w40 NT+. Any thoughts? If the oil is failing to reach the desired temperature would people suggest going for a lower viscosity?

Having read this thread with interest, as a new 420R owner myself, is there a general consensus on which engine oil grade is best for these engines? In my previous cars I've always preferred Millers CFS 5w40 NT+ and was thinking of using it in the Seven, once out of hibernation. 
 

If the oil struggles to get up to temperature are there better/safer alternatives?

Thanks for letting me know. Luckily a Seven owner has just got in touch and sold me a spare set he had. 

They're out of stock, as is everybody. Carbon bolt-ons seem to be in very short supply at the moment. 

I'm after a pair of carbon fibre bow protectors, please. They're for the standard chassis, although I believe they're all the same size. 

Can you make me some carbon bow protectors now?! Caterham have no idea when, or if, they're getting any more! What happened to carbon fibre products?

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Apologies for possibly derailing this thread but I'm new to Seven ownership and was wondering about main dealers vs independents vs 'back street' garages. I've owned Porsches in the past and there's such snobbery about having the correct stamps in the service book. It would be seen as the kiss of death to have a non-specialist stamp in the book, best of all to have the official dealership one in there.
 

I've always used independents on my past cars as I prefer a more personal service, but I was wondering if the same service stamp snobbery applies on the Seven. 

I've read about this happening too. I put a private plate on my 420R not long after I bought it and tentatively checked the ULEZ checker online. I was lucky but others have been caught out. 

The thing I've found rather disconcerting about driving a car with a lightweight flywheel is the level of deacceleration when lifting off the throttle too fast in traffic. I live in London and often the more aggressive drivers will be inches away from your rear bumper. I'm extremely cautious about lifting off too quickly as I know they won't be paying enough attention behind me to notice the rapid loss of speed. I've fitted a pair of high level LED brake lights to help the situation but obviously these don't go on when lifting off the throttle. 

I was wondering that myself but as a newbie didn't like to ask!