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Posts posted by GulfSeven
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Is it not bolted to the existing holes for the petty strut?
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I had the service done today, and as the coolant was being drained anyway I had the hose replaced with the OEM Caterham part I linked above. I totally forgot to ask about coolant type, so it's back full of factory-standard OAT. The new hose has a Caterham-branded matte wrap. Perhaps the original Caterham Motorsport one isn't available anymore? I certainly can't find any alternatives to the new one on the Caterham parts website.
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Odd, is the SV different to the S3? I have the Caterham Half Hood for my 310R and the straps didn't stop the roof sticks sitting flush and fitting under the boot cover.
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Moot point isn't it now that Avon has shut? I thought Toyo R888R were the new go to?
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Any further info on OAT damaging hoses? The silicone bottom hose on my 4-year old 310R has become porous and will need changing in the spring...
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On 30/12/2023 at 11:15, StevehS3 said:
Williams might want to keep to CC’s factory standard but either way please let us know their opinion. 👍
They might, but they recommended changing the LSD oil to RRT last year which is what they use on their race cars so maybe not.
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It's going for MOT and service as soon as it's back on the road in the spring anyway so I'll ask Williams what they recommend and get it sorted at the same time. They run their own race team too so should be able to advise.
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Hmmm. That hose is branded Caterham Motorsport in white... so perhaps it's already silicone?
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Conclusive proof that the hose is porous:
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Does this imply that the Sigma and Duratec bottom hose is identical?
https://caterhamparts.co.uk/hoses/7487-bottom-rad-hose-sigma-06.html
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Thanks Jonathan.
I don't see any hoses for sigma cars though.
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Is there a silicone hose kit for a 310R?
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I noticed a drop of coolant under my car since taking it off the road this year. It dripped from the bottom (large) hose going to the radiator.
There were quite a few tiny beads of coolant on it in various places, so I cleaned them off, tightened the top hose to the expansion bottle (which was directly above) and left it. A day later, there's no drip on the floor, but again a few tiny beads of coolant in various places on the hose. I've now moved the expansion bottle to one side to rule that out, but there's nothing leaking from it.
Could the bottom hose going to the radiator have gone porous and developed pinholes in it? It's a 2020 car...
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On 23/12/2023 at 19:04, BigCol said:
I fitted a connector for my CTEK in the cockpit - so no need to remove the bonnet to access - which goes direct to the battery:
edited to add, if I was to do this again, I’d use the adaptor @MattB references above.
I had this setup on my Elise (albeit under the bonnet). With the Caterham I just use the FIA cut-off key which means it starts on the button in the spring with no need to charge all winter.
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I wouldn't be without it on an early morning spring drive to a trackday!
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Yep - it's quite a stretch with a standard knob...
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It's standard. The policy wording is out of date then they'll confirm they do in fact cover most of the usual providers if you ask.
I always get it in writing though, just in case...
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I've booked the two Castle Combe days - May 13th and July 22nd
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I think its annoying more than anything else.
Motorbikes don't suffer this problem so why do Caterhams?
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4 hours ago, Piers300 said:
TADTS
This.
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Looks like a great first track day 👍
In addition to what Drumster recommended about the harness, I'd also recommend having your visor down. Leave a small gap at the bottom for ventilation, but you really don't want anything off the car in front coming over the windscreen and hitting you in the face. Often the marshals will insist on that before they let you out on track.
I've never driven Blyton Park, but can recommend Donnington, Brands Hatch and Goodwood. My local circuit is Castle Combe - not as iconic as those, but also very good in a Seven. Enjoy!
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On 05/11/2023 at 14:01, GulfSeven said:
I'll check the torque again this winter. My 310R is 4 years old now and has done 7,000 miles / 8 track days. Last winter when I checked it was still 42 lb.ft though (the same as when it was new).
I'll report back...
Okay, update time...
Two things have changed since last year - firstly the diff is now full of RRT oil, and secondly I have a new (calibrated) torque wrench. Anyway, today's test showed a breakout torque of 38 lb.ft. Has it actually dropped by 4 lb.ft? I'm not sure. It could equally be the oil or it could be the torque wrench. Next year's test will be with the same oil and torque wrench so we'll have to wait and see. Either way, 38 lb.ft is fine for now.
LED headlight recommendations
in TechTalk
Posted
£23 each is insane! JAL and Sevens and Classics charge £380 for their top of the range ones*. £120-£180 for their cheaper ones. What's the catch?
* We'll ignore Caterham's prices (nearly twice the JAL price for the exact same unit).