Norman

Thank you all for your suggestions. After buying the Emerald comms cable I've now got the laptop and software hooked up to the ECU successfully, but not sure which setting I need to change to alter the RPM at idle. If anyone who has done this, has any screenshots of their settings, I'd love to see them. 

Also, can someone point me to where I reset the throttle position sensor in the software? I can't see a button or option anywhere which mentions this! 

thanks 

Hi all, 

Recently my 1998 1.6 K series Supersport has started to idle really poorly - the revs are down at around 500, and whether hot or cold, it will basically conk out if I don't give it some throttle, even when pulling up to traffic lights. 

In the 2 years I've had it, it has always idled low on startup, and needed some throttle until it warms up. I thought this was normal, but am told it shouldn't need any throttle. 

I'm aware it could be the ECU, or fuel lines / filter, residue in throttle bodies or timing or air filter blocked... 

I should mention I'm a bit of a newbie with this, and not very engine savvy!

I have an Emerald ECU (serial no. 42148)

I also have a DVA supersport kit with TBs, cam timing etc.  

I've read on other posts that the throttle position sensor can be reset on stardard ECUs by turning ignition on, pushing and releasing throttle 5 times, then ignition off. 

I've tried looking elsewhere if this will work on my Emerald, but not found anything. Will it?

thanks for any help - I need to get her running sweet in time for the Taffia Fish & Chip Run in a few weeks!

Hi Dave, I have a pair of black Willans 4 point harnesses which I recently took off. 

They are 2005 dated, but still in great condition. PM me and I can send pics etc. 

cheers 

Chris 

Hi Andrew, 

I have 2 leather seats which I've just removed from my 1998 S3 imperial seven. Pretty much what you're looking for then!

PM me and I can send you pictures etc. 

cheers 
Chris 

Hi I’m after a pair of rear Proxes R888Rs, 205/60/R13 with GG compound.

Good condition / relatively new if anyone has some spare? 

cheers

Ok thanks, will take a look 

Looking for some CF sill guards. Ideally ones from Classic Carbon as I liked the finish but may consider others. Anyone bought some they never fitted? 
cheers 

Hi Gary, 

looks like you already have this sorted, but I have a good condition one of these that I'm about to remove from my car this weekend. 
Let me see if I can attach an image... 

(I remember it being not a simple process on the forum) 

I could make use of a 3D scanning contact, which seems like a wise idea, as you say given that these badges are no longer available. 

Chris

---

Nope! Can't upload photo direct from phone it seems. 

Can you let me know which items are remaining? thanks

I removed my driver seat last weekend. Also a relative mecha-numpty, so it can be done. 

The seats, as GJT says, are pretty easy to remove with those 6 button head bolts. 
this will take them off the runners. 

If you need to remove the runners that is harder. Socket wrench under the car, and the head of an open spanner on the hex bolt top, as nothing else will really hold the bolt which is recessed inside the runner. 
I thought this bit would be a massive PITA as I thought my bolts had been bent from a few under-car impacts. However the bolts were just knocked a bit sideways from the impacts, and the nuts came out relatively easily despite lots of crap on the threads. 

Good luck! 

That looks like a solid option 

Ok I’ll pass thanks 

I’d be interested in this - though I guess it depends on how easily a temporary tow bar can be fitted to my Caterham?! 

PM’d you 

I have a polished frame and stanchions available  but I guess the anodised ones are more matte than this? 

Hi, I'm also interested in these - are they still available? 

I currently have ReceTech mirrors which don't have the right mount to fit the Eccles mirror mounts. 

Will PM you my email. thanks 

Something else irritating that I've noticed is when an OP posts something for sale, and then someone else responds mentioning some other product which 'works just as well - I have one, here's the link to Amazon', or whatever. 

If you're so keen about this other product, sing the praises of it separately in the appropriate section of the forum.

The OP has made the effort to put something up for sale - don't lead potential buyers astray with some other item - likely sold by some nameless corporation in Chengdu. 

As StevehS3 says this should all be common sense, but apparently to some people it is not! 

OK, rant over. 

Ok thanks - have emailed you. 

Hi James, I have some. Will PM you the details. 

Chris 

Thanks chaps. Got some M4 washers and little nuts and got the job done properly. All sorted! 

Thanks Jonathan. I’m looking to finish this job today - can you elaborate on the issue of getting the nose of the gun into the recess? 

Or is this what you’re talking about Grubbster? 

I have filed down the shoulders of the rivers so they fit fully inside the hole of the popper base if that’s what you are referring to. 

Also I see that with the existing poppers, there is a small washer on the inside of the boot panel which the rivets sit up against. Presumably to add strength against the years of unpopping that will follow? 

I’m going to look for some similar washers so I can do the same on the new ones. 

Thanks 

.

Great, thanks Jonathan. Indeed It’s not exactly what I’m trying to do, but close enough and helpful so see someone arrange the bits to help me be sure I’m doing it the right way! 

Hi guys, I’m trying to add 2x poppers to my existing boot lid. I have the rivet gun, rivets and the little popper fitting kit. Someone mentioned that there was a How To video in the FAQs section on how to do this, but I can’t find it. 

Can someone post a link to it please? I wanna make sure I’m ready with all the right bits in the right places before I get started... 

thanks 

Interested - have PM’d you.