Iamscotticus

Has anyone drilled through the pivot pin hole and and installed an adjustable height pivot bolt?

I've heard of this but forgot what problem it was a solution for.

It does have the benefit of not ejecting.

There are alloy crush washers.  Those don't need to be bottomed out to work.  They help seal between two uneven surfaces.  On those, have the hard side under the bolt head, hand tight to stop then a quarter turn with wrench.

There are other options.  A Dowdy seal of the proper size.  Any rubber seal will be hand tight, meaning as tight as you can with a palm wratchet, not an extended handle.

Whatever you do, watch the seal afterwards and have a wrench with you to snug it down if needed.

Tighter isn't always better. Try a different seal.  Save the threads.

11 hours ago, David_Stamp said:

Insurance?? [Most insurance companies would expect both an immobiliser and steering lock nowadays]

Ahh, good point. 

What part of a 7 not being an automobile do they not understand?

It's an airframe on wheels. 

If fitting a removable steering wheel, why would anyone care to retain the steering lock?

That's the thing about mechavs electronic timing.  Electronic timing often does last longer than points, but when it goes foul, it goes quick.  Points will eventually need replacing but they rarely fail suddenly.  Electronic timing has the convenience of set and forget, while the points dizzy will need gaping and maintenance to maintain top form.

I doubt the majority of electronic dizzy users will have the acumen to convert to points on the roadside.  It's something worth learning how, a personal goal of mine as my only experience wirh dizzys, besides the few cars I've owned, is the Lucas Aldon on the Cat.

Anyone know the OEM, vehicle or part numbers for black rubber Crossflow hoses? 

I found the bolts on my 95 imperial LC LA to be 7/16 - 20.

I have an FIA on my car.

Two bolts used. One on the shock tower plate, and one on the upper seat back square tube.

The shock bolt and rubber discs holds the center.

7 hours ago, Midas said:

If you contact the CC Archivist - Martin Phipps and give him your chassis number, 

Thanks,

Apologies,  my OP was not clear.  Now edited.

My lump was purchased separately from a gent who took it out of another Cat.  It could be years older or newer than my chassis build.  I bought the chassis in 2006.

The head stamp is SAMCOR RAK1192

Hello

I have a Sprint Spec 1600 Crossflow (engine olny) I bought used.  Its an AX block but I don't know when it was built for CC.  I understand early Sprints had A2 cams and later had GT cams.  My 1996 build manual states the spec then was GT cam in 1996, but I suspect the engine may be older.

Does the CC historian have build numbers to ID my engine?

Otherwise I may have to pull the timing apart to see the cam stamp.

Another question is why would CC downgrade to a GT?  Is it a downgrade?  Were the A2 durations too long to play nice?

Thanks for the advice,

After going out to the wipers, I realized had confused the 7 wipers with some other wipers I had tried.  The 7 release tabs are too small to get a finger on, and there is some play on the spindle.

I will be alright when I get the right tool in there.  

Yuck yuck 

Shall I drill a hole on top to apply a Solvent through?  I'm hoping to not damage the spindles.

..

Wiper arms are stuck to the Spindles.

What does it take to remove them? 

On 10/02/2024 at 13:01, Gridgway said:

If it's possible to get dimensions of the oval cutout, the distance down from the top and the distance from the front that would be great.

I can help with this tomorrow

One thing I have seen many times is the substitution of the radiator bobbin for the exhaust bobbin, which has a tapered center.

Is it better to have a softer mount for anything plumbed?

I know you've made up your mind, but there are some speedos that can use a sensor near a rotating surface like a crank pulley.

I emailed Disc. MG Rover Spares about the cap.

Response was it is a low Bar, about 14 Psi.

Since we're on the Rover cap topic,

does anyone know the pressure rating for that one?  Its one of the few caps that doesn't have the pressure rating on the top.

5 hours ago, Mechanical Moz said:

Beware the cheap aftermarket caps do not have a great reputation.  Many reports across different applications of them leaking/not holding pressure.

https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/expansion-tank-cap-rover-200-400-600-25-45-zr-zs-premium-quality-oem-available

Very true.  RB offers OEM but not in stock.  It may be worth asking CC parts if the cap they sell is OEM.

Saw it on Rimmer Bros.  https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-PCD100160P

Engine doesn't matter. Cap goes with bottle. CC used whatever fit the car and the pressure is within range.

CC also used the Rover 600 tank https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-PCF010103

uses same cap.

Im fairly sure its a Rover 600 bottle.  on Rimmer Bros.

Thanks.

The Rover 25 bottle is very close. It might be the same bottle with the mounting brackets being higher.  Probably a good thing.  My intention is mount to the scuttle as high as possible.

I don't really care for a spherical bottle on the scuttle.  No other reason than I want a tank close to the pannel with it's own brackets.  The Freelander works well on the frame cruciform.

Several good aluminum tanks, I know.  I want a plastic bottle to see the coolant condition in regularly.

10 hours ago, Benton said:

 

Not sure if you were looking for a cheaper source for the tank other than direct from Lotus.  

No, not searching for price.  However,  prices for these from Lotus dealers vary widely.

Hello,

Is there an OEM part number, vehicle, other than Lotus for this coolant tank?

It is used on the Elise and Exige K Engined cars as A111K6004F and has been used on various Caterhams.

I want to make a wider search for this tank.

Mixing coolants...