wiltsathome

great choice of van and you are offering it at a sharp price. Great deal for someone 

Indeed, up from South Devon for a few days. Heading for the joys of Exmoor although it's a bit drafty today. 

I went from 260 to 280 on my 420R, way nicer on the road (particularly over bumpy surface, although I keep promising myself to sort my bump steer to improve that aspect as well!)and not a problem on track. My car is in Devon most of the time but Hampshire fairly regularly. If you are around those locations you are welcome to try it. It's removable of course. 

Heading out of Newton Abbot to wards Totnes, red / orange newish S3 weds eve. Thumbs up from white 911

Green with Yellow nose band heading West past Dounreay on NC500 route yesterday mid afternoon (9/6/22)

I'd agree with the info that you have been given for sure

Hi, Im interested in your tyres please. Where are you located?

Regards. Tony

What is the view on the Toyos compared to Avon ZZS on a 420R please?

Apologies, I haven't been on the forum recently. However, a few photos are attached​  

The first photo shows the dimmer switch knob under the dash and easily found whilst driving and strapped in. I may put a rubber or plastic knob on it to make it easier with gloves but as I rarely wear them I probably won't get around to it. The dimmer switch sits on the top side of the aluminium plate that is under the dash and contains the large rubber grommet that gives access to the diagnostic / management plug. It's not visible as it hides behind the radius of the bottom edge of the dash

second photo shows normal full illumination and the reflection in the side screen, whilst the third shows the lighting dimmed to such that the digits renaming readable and there is effectively no reflections in the side screens. The last photo shows them dimmed such that just the needles show. They can of course be dimmed to no light at all

as for wiring, it's simple. Cut the red and white feed wire into the tacho and Speedo and from the loom end connect them together along with the feed into the dimmer. I do this with solder and heat shrink, tidy and way more reliable than connectors. Pick the earth up on the side of the main light switch and solder the dimmer earth onto the small spade end that connects it. Then cut the feed into the other three instruments, seal the loom ends with a double layer of heat shrink to terminat and then bridge the feed wire from the dimmer into each of the instrument plugs. If I could have got a wiring diagram and find the feed at the fuse or relay box I'd have done it that way, but I couldn't find the wire without major dismantling that didn't warrant the effort in my view. 
 

hope this helps 
 

The instruments lights are fed by red and white wires into the bottom right of the wire block as looking from the instrument face. I took the feed to the dimmer from the wire into the RevC and Speedo, then picked up each instrument feed from the dimmer output. I located the dimmer under the dash on the top side of the panel that has a grommet in it for accessing the diagnostic plug, simply drilled a hole for the dimmer spindle to poke thru so it is above you right knee and easily found pretty much directly below the main  switch. 
happy to chat directly if you want more details. 
cheers

The Stack dimmer works well on the standard instruments from full bright to fully off. What is really useful is that the red needles are the last to go out as you decrease the light so you still see where the needles are without the background. An ideal mod for safer night driving
I tried to post a video but this site rejects the format. 

After a little surfing I have found a purpose made Stack dimmer that appears to be suitable and is packaged for instillation, a little dearer than stuff on line but those options are not so well packaged for easy car installation. factor in the club discount and we will see  will report back after I have tried it

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/search/shop-by/q/Stack%20dimmer/

That would be most handy Jonathan, if it for a 420r would it be possible to email on wiltsathome@hotmail.com please?

Cheers guys, the problem is the white light background lighting to the instruments that on my 2016 car are like Blackpool, dazzling forward vision and reflecting so badly in the side screens that the mirrors are useless. Happily, my high beam light isn't too bad (better than my previous 2006 car)

The easy solution is to put a switch into the red/white feed off the back of the light switch, the snag with this is that you cut all illumination to both instruments and the switch indicators. Next option is to take each feed to each instrument into one switch and leave the switch illumination intact. But the ideal fix is to find a way of dimming the lights to switches and instruments with something like an old fashioned rheostat but I know some LEDs won't work with a normal voltage reducing rheostat.  
I'm therefore looking to see if anyone has found a good way of achieving the latter solution 

Has anyone with a late model Caterham with LED illuminated instruments found a way of dimming them using a PWM rheostat or potentiometer? 
I find the brightness of the instruments blinding at night and would prefer to dim them rather than simply putting an on/off switch into the circuit
Look forward to your possible solutions

Many thanks guys, your information is much appreciated. 

Can anyone tell me what this is please? It's behind the dash on my 2016 420R and I came across it whilst hunting for the indicator beeper. 
it gets hot and the car seems to function normally with it disconnected, although I only started it for a moment  

Hi John,

The sidelights simply plug into the existing sidelight holder, they are polarity sensitive and work one way but not the other, but don't suffer damage if you get it wrong. They are bright and light the headlight bowl very well in daylight, I'd say to similar levels of brightness to the Xenon DRL lights on my BM but without the silly styling effects manufactures build into stuff these days

cheers. Tony  

Just got mine from Dave Gemzoe, excellent result and great service, ordered Wednesday in the car this eve. Fitted in less than 20mins and the sidelights are great for daytime running too

Top job

I use this outfit for my rivets, not the cheapest but the best quality and with the advantage of being fully sealed, so no pip falling out and waterproof

Light Aero Spares; www.lasaero.com

Great service and used them for years

Ian, 

I have messaged Stu recently to confirm that I will take it. Happy to let you know how I find it relative to the options I have tried so far. 

Cheers. Tony

Hi Stu, 

Could well be interested in the 290mm if you still have it?

best. Tony

My old 7 had a 280 wheel and was great for road miles, the 260 makes the car feel less delicate. I had a Motolita wheel off an old race car that I had lying around but at 310mm it is a tad too big but the car felt great, more like my Elan, so the 280 seems the place to be. Additionally the round section and leather quality of the Motolita felt significantly better than the lumpy profile of the Momo so that will figure in what I eventually get

Looking for a 280mm steering wheel please. 
thanks. Tony

James, thanks for that and understand your point. What I have learnt is this diff uses ball bearings that obviously can't be preloaded, instead of the more conventional taper rollers, and from my own experience of CWP life in racing Hewland boxes, once you lose pre-load you are on your way to CWP and / or casing failure, So accepting that this isn't the root cause of my current failure, I'm not a fan of living with flawed principles, but that's my engineering background irritating me I guess

Cheers. Tony