chisel86

Thanks Dave, some great shots. 

Will PM you with my car description to see if you have any more. 

Dave

Thanks for the comments all. 

I’ll get in touch with Shaun and try and get it turned into a guide. 

I was messaged by Rob Ismay asking for some info on how I mounted my charge socket, so I thought I would post some instructions, images and links to the items I bought in case its helpful to anyone else as well. I can't seem to get the orientation rights on some of the images so you'll have to turn your heads for some of them

Front of charge socket, with integrate on/off switch to isolate it when parked up, dual 5V 4.2A USB sockets and cigarette lighter for plugging in the trickle charger in the garage.

I removed the ring connectors and the in-line 10A fuse from the harness and added male bullet connectors so I can unplug or replace the unit in future if required.

I spent some time placing the charge unit in different places under the dash before deciding it best fit as far forward on the transmission tunnel, next to the main harness and up against the heater cowling. In order to house the charge unit and give it a bit of dust protection I bought a plastic box (link below) of a suitable size from Homebase. 

I cut the back off the box using a rotary tool cutting disc (although a hacksaw would also work) so I could stick it to the front face with double sided tape to reinforce the mounting surface and fill the gap caused by the facia of the charge unit being slight too large to sit neatly between the upper and lower lips of the box. I marked out the socket locations on the plastic box and using a drill and rotary tool sanding disc (although a file would also do the job) I cut out holes for the sockets and test fitted the charge unit in it's new housing.

Cutting the housing to size - Using the depth of the sockets as a guide I cut down the depth of the housing (removing the charge unit first), then offered it up to the tunnel under the dash. After some marking and cutting, and more marking and cutting, the housing now fitted snuggly into its intended location. I drilled a hole either side of the housing to take a bungee cord, then masking off the outside of the housing I sprayed a few thin coats of black paint on the inside of the housing. I bought some 25cm bungee cords from homebase (link below). I had to unwind the thick metal wire wrapped around the doubled-over end of the bungee cord, which was holding it into the bungee hook, so I could thread it through the holes I drilled into either side of the housing. Once I did this I reinserted the bungee cord into the hook and re-wrapped the wire around the bungee cord to restore it to its original condition.

Then I installed the charge unit into the finished housing.

Installing the wiring (all electrical items purchased from Halfords and links below) - from inside the car, using a long screwdriver I pulled the rubber gasket around the main harness located at the front of the transmission tunnel to one side so I could thread the cables through. I kept threading them until they eventually appeared from around the transmission under the car, then threaded them up into the engine bay to the battery. Using the in-line fuse I cut off earlier I connected it to the end of the positive cable using a butt connector. I also added a ring connector to the negative cable. Ensuring enough slack in the positive cable to be able to replace the inline fuse if required I cable tied the cables to the existing cables so they ran neatly to/from the transmission tunnel. Giving myself some extra cable length in the cabin for any future requirements I cut the cables and put female bullet connectors on them.

Finally I plugged the charge unit into the cables, positioned the unit at the front of the tunnel and using the hooks on the bungee cord clipped it to the tunnel top cover.

I've since gone back and added some rubber gasket to the end of the housing next to the main harness just to make sure there's no rubbing. There's some things I'd do differently a second time, like removing less material from the housing for the main harness clearance, and making a cardboard template before cutting the top of the housing to make it more accurate, but I'm fairly happy with the results and hope it gives some guidance or inspiration for anyone tackling a similar project.

David

Links

USB/lighter charge socket http://https://www.amazon.co.uk/SONRU-Cigarette-Voltmeter-Independent-Motorcycle/dp/B07GRKB7SC/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_img_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JKPHCYET06FHNG1CFVBQ

Plastic box https://www.homebase.co.uk/tactix-a6-storage-box-with-lid_p375010

Bungee cords https://www.homebase.co.uk/master-lock-mini-bungee-25cm-pack-of-4_p105333

Black 17amp cable https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/fuses-electricals-fixings/halfords-17-amp-cable-black-hef732

Red 17amp cable https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/fuses-electricals-fixings/halfords-17-amp-cable-red-hef731

Bullet connectors (male) https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/fuses-electricals-fixings/halfords-bullet-connectors-hef503-15-amp-male (female) https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/fuses-electricals-fixings/halfords-bullet-connectors-hef502-15-amp-female

Ring connectors https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/fuses-electricals-fixings/halfords-ring-connectors-30-amp-insulated

Butt connectors https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/fuses-electricals-fixings/halfords-butt-connectors-hef522-15-amp

Thanks for the advice.

I haven't got a battery master switch and intend to use the cigarette lighter to plug in my trickle charger so the lack of isolation is desired.

Hi All

I'm hoping to get your learned advice on installing a USB charger socket panel in my car? I've trawled through all the previous posts on this subject so have researched it as much as I can but being mainly electrically illiterate I've still got a few open questions.

I've bought this charge socket panel https://www.amazon.co.uk/SONRU-Cigarette-Voltmeter-Independent-Motorcycle/dp/B07GRKB7SC/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_img_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JKPHCYET06FHNG1CFVBQ

I've fabricated a bracket to hold it at the front of the transmission tunnel under the dash. Regarding the wiring side of it:

1) it has an in-built on/off switch and inline 10A fuse, so I'm intending to connect the positive wire directly to the battery. I understand this to be quite sensible and safe, is there any reason I shouldn't?

2) previous posts suggest either wiring the negative directly to the battery as well, or to an earth point on the car. Is either of these options better or worse? Where is the closest earth point under the dash? I think someone mentioned the windscreen wiper motor is an earth point, can I just attach it to any bolt on the wiper motor?

3) I'll need to extend the positive wire to get it to reach the battery, what wire do I need to buy to be safe? Halfords has a range of 5Amp, 17Amp, 27Amp wires, do I just buy the 17Amp wire as this will be enough to cover the 10A inline fuse? (the wires on the unit I've bought are 18AWG 600V).

4) The two options to run the cable to the battery seem to be to thread it through the existing wiring loom hole in the tunnel or drill a hole through the bulkhead. Is this just a matter of preference and visibility of wires etc? Is the only risk of drilling a hole through the bulkhead creating a water leak path?

Thanks in advance for any help.

David

Thanks

I've been reading this thread with interest, can anyone recommend somewhere near Warwick that could do the full flat floor and bumper steer/handling set-up specially for a caterham?

Thanks

David

Hi Bil

YHM

Hi Jonathan

I'd take one canister and one black roll, UK delivery.

Thanks

David

Thanks Stridey

Hi Stridey, was the kit you bought fairly easy to fit? I already have a buzzer, do you think it would be an easy swap?

Hi, sorry for delayed response, not been on blatchat for a while. Is your bag still available or have I missed the boat?

If anyone is looking to sell a boot bag for an S3 chassis, preferably from Oxted Trimming Company but would also consider SBFS, please drop me a message.

Thanks

David

I'm still looking for a boot bag if anyone has one they're looking to sell?

Hi Martyn

PM sent again, looks to have got through this time. 

David

Hi Martyn

I messaged you but it said it wasn't delivered as your inbox was full. All good on helmet size so I'll definitely take it, and I'll have the race suit as well if it's still available?

My details are in the message if it gets through to you, if not let me know and clear some space and I'll send again.

Thanks

David

If anyone is looking to sell a boot bag for an S3 chassis, preferably from Oxted Trimming Company but would also consider SBFS, please drop me a message.

Thanks

David

Hi

Can I have first dibs on the helmet, pending getting home later and measuring the size of my head?

Thanks

Dave

Thanks Dave, really nice to have some memories of the day, greatly appreciate you spending your time taking these. 

My thoughts eco those above. A massive thanks to James and Dave for organising the day and ensuring it ran like clockwork and to schedule, no easy feat. Also thanks to all the instructors for their pearls of wisdom, and to the other participants for ensuring it was a friendly and welcoming environment in which to enjoy my first track day.

Have just received my Low Flying magazine and the enclosed Cadwell Park application... oh the deliberation...

David

(Dark Blue Roadsport with Silver Stripe)

PM sent

L7 FST, any idea how regular the drips were? I've had the rubber mats out since the weekend and just checked now and there's no sign of any more dampness... so fingers crossed it's not a drip

Thanks for all the comments and advice. I know it was given a corrosion coating by the guy I bought it from last year but not sure what type.

I'll be sure to keep an eye on it and make sure add some sealant in the spring when I can get the car up on its axle stands!

Hi

I was vacuuming out the inside of my car today, when I took the mats out of the footwells I found there was a lot of moistures between the mats and the floor, not enough to puddle but a lot more than just damp.

I couldn't notice any 'smell' from the fluid but there was definitely some oily residue/colour in the passenger side footwell but not in the drivers side.

Maybe it's just some water that got into the cabin last time I washed it (about 3 months ago before putting it away for the winter) and the mats have stopped it evaporating, but I was wondering if there are any known issues or possible fluid line damage I should be aware of or check?

Its a 2003 1.8 K-series roadsport if that makes any difference. 

Thanks

David

Dave, I'm going to go with the Pitking mirrors but thanks anyway