dodgedavidson

Hiya, did you sell? One of my buddies is looking to get a Caterham and yours looks like a great spec.

Cheers, Roger

Ooh, good spot. Some of those requirements must be new. Previously I've seen all sorts of weird and wonderful vehicles on TF sessions.

Thanks Oily, these look to be mechanical then?

Thanks Oily. Is there an easy way to tell if the lifters are mechanical or hydraulic without removing the cams? 

Thanks for the link, didn't find that. Interesting it comes up as a mechanical cam, it's been fitted to a K1600 with hydraulic followers. Not sure what effect that has, hmmm??

I've been helping a mate with his K1600, he doesn’t really know the provenance.

We had the cam cover off and discovered a couple of things that I hope folks might be able to help with.

The cams have been upgraded with Pipers, ground from Piper blanks. I measured them at 9.23mm lift (39.13 – 29.90) and are stamped with part numbers between cylinders 1&2, both have the same part number LGC206250N 13. 

I couldn’t find anything on the Piper website, any ideas what these would be? Supersport? 

I’m sure the head has been ported. I know most tuners mark the heads, I found "CK81" stamped on the rear exhaust side, anyone recognise this?

Cheers,

Roger

There are loads of exhaust manufacturers, weird 4-1 collector connection though with that bolt on flange, maybe for a swappable cat section? Any shots of the primaries under the bonnet?

What is it you need to do, repack the silencer? 

Any paperwork from the previous owner?

I would say the welding's not as good as on my Powerspeed :-)

Cheers,

Roger

There are some available online, VGK have one: https://www.vgkracing.com/k%20engine%20EU3.pdf

Otherwise Haynes Rover 25 / MGZR manual covers them.

Roger

Hi Andrew,

Hope you're feeling a lot better now.

I've got a good VVC Exhaust pulley, no cracks in the rubber, from a second VVC engine I've acquired.

Cheers,

Roger

Andrew,

I'm making a hopeful assumption, that once I've converted to non VVC the standard front cover (without the VVC bulge) will fit, is that the case?

Thanks Andrew, I hadn't seen that, you are very generous sir, I've bought it.

Like you say very difficult to find but I've only been looking for a couple of weeks. I cleaned up mine yesterday and thought I might be able to put a plate on the back across the crack (at the top 12 oclock) but then realised it was also cracked but not broken yet at the 3 o'clock position, very wobbly and the pulleys have scored the backplate.

Next idea was modifying a non VVC one, the screw holes look to be in the same place but I wasn't sure if the cross section profile was the same.

Should I not use it for any reason I will pass it to you for the same price.

Cheers,

Roger

I'm looking for a VVC timing belt cover, the inner part that goes up against the block. Mine has split and is rubbing against the pulleys. Rover part number is LJR104760.

Anyone have one lurking around?

Did you see this one?

https://www.facebook.com/groups/341703863245260/permalink/908192819929692/?sale_post_id=908192819929692

Not easy to find at sensible price. I picked up a PRG Tracsporter about 5 years ago from a guy as his new rally car, Metro 6R4, wouldn't fit! It's been fantastic, served as a garage for a while too. I did see Neil Henderson, who's local to me and was racing in the Academy in 2019, has a canvas covered Brian James Minno for sale, £2500, on the Caterham Motorsport Marketplace Facebook Group. https://www.facebook.com/groups/2264076790494403/permalink/2926964327538976

Hi all,

Bernard Scouse told me this morning he's sold the moulds and design rights to Eliseparts a couple of months ago and they will be in production with the full range of airboxes in the next week or two.

They are making the Caterham boxes, R400/500 and Jenvey body flavour.

Bernard's working closely with them and the first parts out of the moulds are of excellent quality.

Their email is sales@Eliseparts.com, contact there is Geary, the owner.

Cheers,

Roger

Ha ha, she would love one but needs a Volvo XC60......... to tow the trailer for my Caterham :-)

Snap :-) I've got a C63 Coupe as my daily driver and a Caterham, a 1.6K that's been DVA'd to 185bhp. Love them both. Good luck with the sale.

While you're at it I'd recommend fitting an LMA Oil Pressure Remote T Piece to remove the Oil Pressure sender from the engine vibrations and extend it's life.

Wow Andrew, that's one humongous effort! Mightlily impessive.

Cheers,

Roger

Hi George,

Do you still have these for sale?  I've clattered two of mine, don't think they can be repaired. 

Cheers,

Roger 

Steve, I was up at Emerald on Monday (one long wet drive that was) and John their mapper works at Vara Technik near Heathrow at the weekends if that helps.

Cheers,

Roger

Welcome.

The steering alignment can make things really twitchy if you have toe out. You want it on track but it gets very lively on the road. The manual recommends a bit of toe in for road use.

The other thing is check the dates on those tyres, if it's not been used for that long the tyres will be old and quite hard. When I got mine it had nearly 12 year old tyres on it, changed them for new Yoko AD08R, night and day difference to grip levels.

I've had a series of K-Series upgrades (like many others) but check out Dave Andrews site http://www.dvapower.com/ it's the bible for K Series tuning.

If you're going to use it for more main road work rather than track, check the diff ratio, you'll want a 3.62 with a 6 speed box.

Let us know where you are, there will be plenty of help available from your local club members too.

Cheers,

Roger

My preference is Mintex M1155 especially as I use it for trackdays. Work really well and about £44.

Well done, all I managed to do was split mine. First the ring went out of round, then the boot split when I'd almost got it on. Hey ho, I put the old one back on with a bit of black gaffer wrapped round it. 6 months and several trackdays later, all in one piece and not leaking any grease :-)

If I need to fix it I've decided it's not worth the time and hassle for less than £20 extra to replace the complete rod end.

Roger