Brian27

Hi Steve. I had a similar problem, but my car has the older Triumph brakes. I ordered and fitted pad anti rattle springs which I obtained from Rimmer Bros. Cured the problem.

Brian

Dave try LFP Motorsport near Tamworth. Speak to Aaron 07834 835772. They take them off race cars. I collected some for guys in the Mid Staffs and they were like new.

Brian

Hi Dave

I have the same engine in my red 40 years of Caterham car (you will know me from Longdon meet). I use Bosch HR8MCV+ plugs in mine.

Brian

I found the centre tube in an axle stand was the ideal diameter to hammer the steel ring in place without damaging the rubber. Having also damaged a new one trying other methods.

Glad it has been identified. I had exactly the same problem, with an annoying buzzing noise from it at certain revs.  

Mine failed just the same when the car was about 2 years old. Mine was worse in hot weather. I did the earth mod as John suggested, but had to order a new sensor from Caterham which fixed it.

Hi

If you say the batteries are marked up at 10v then you need to check the voltage rating of the motors. With the batteries connected in series (as they appear) you would get 20v total. My guess is that the motors are 10v rated therefore the batteries should be connected in parallel giving 10v output. A 12v charger would be correct for charging both batteries but again connected in parallel.

+ on battery 1 to + on battery 2 to + on charger

- on battery 1 to - on battery 2 to - on charger.

Hope this helps.

Forgot to say part number was GBK5914

Hi Andy

I had exactly this problem with my 2014 Sigma which had less than 2,000mls from new. It is fitted with Girling Type 14 Spitfire/Herald front disk brakes. At slow speeds the pads on one wheel were lifting every revolution of the wheel, as the disk was not quite true.

The cure was to fit a brake pad retaining kit (spring steel plate). These are available from Rimmer Bros www.rimmerbros.co.uk . Cost me £16 including delivery. Problem cured.

Brian    

John

I had the same problem and had to clean up the switch contacts, however; I found that the switch adjustment had been set too fine against brake pedal travel. This meant that the contacts were not fully opening with no pedal travel. Switching a DC current will always produce an arc across the contacts and cause them to burn up. By adjusting the mounting nuts on the switch so that it needs a little more brake pedal travel before the contacts make, cured the problem.

Brian