Wodybode

I’ve got a Soft Bits for Sevens Draught Reducer for a S3 car with standard seats for sale. It’s in excellent condition and has had minimal use. £90 plus £7 postage or can collect in the Peak District. 

I really like my Wera Tool Check Plus. It's pretty compact and beautifully engineered, you just have to shop around as the price seems to vary a lot.

https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/multi-tools/wera-39-piece-tool-check-plus-multi-tool/p/519484

Andy

They do work but.... there is always a but, the rated Ah for them are given at the voltage for the battery inside the unit and importantly this is NOT 12v. So when they say it’s 10Ah that is not 1 amp for 10 hours at 12v it’s probably 1 amp for 10 hours at 3.6v which is very different.  Having said that, they do work and are very small, most have a light on them and you can charge your phone 3-4-5 times. They have inverter circuits that can change the output voltage to suit whatever is required such as 12v for the jump start facility, 5v for the usb, plus various other voltages for the dc out port for laptops etc. If you want a true rating of its power you need to look at its watt hr rating.

Take it in the house and prop it up by a hot radiator for a few hours.

I've used these to secure into ali sheet, they soak up vibration very well too.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-M4-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-RUBBER-RUB-NUT-WELL-NUT-THREADED-BRASS-INSERT-RIVET-NUT-/201499994097

Andy

I'd really consider using ear plugs in both ears. It might not seem loud but it is. Audiofit do a range of custom plugs with a club discount.

Andy

Route Napoleon, Grenoble, Gap fantastic area with great roads. Be careful though there are starting to be average speed cameras like this one at Aspremont.

They also filmed the car chase scenes for Ronin on the roads above Gréolières above Niece.

Drive it like you stole it!

Andy

A few of my work colleagues and myself are planning to drive down to Le Mans (15-16 June) but not having done it before wondered if anyone could give some advice on camp site choices. Also would be open for any other advice or tips on what to do, or not do.

We can get heavily discounted ferry tickets through work so wondered if it's possible to buy tickets direct from the ACO or do we have to go through a travel company?

Cheers

Andy

The photo is the rear anti roll bar which adjusts the er, roll of the car when it goes around a corner. Adjustable spring platforms adjust spring preload which can be used amongst other things to balance the car and driver and fuel etc. This needs to be done by someone who knows what they are doing though.

I’d recommend getting someone to sett the steering geometry (castor, camber, toe), corner weights and ARB all in one go to suit your use of the car and so you know where everything is set and to get the best out of your car.

Boot floor - no idea, sorry.

Cheers Andy

Is there anyone booked that probably won’t be able to make it? There are a couple of people on the reserve list and it would great if we could get a bit of advance notice to allow us to travel down in time to squeeze onto the Snetterton evening the night before.

Thanks

Andy

Hi Ian,

I'll have it off you if it's in good condition - any issues with it?

Andy

My first 7 had the handbrake under the passenger dash, out of reach with a harness on. My current one does get used but probably doesn't actually do much. It's not like we do many handbrake turns like in our first car as a teenager.

Andy

Do you think I could book that depending on if I get onto Hethel the next day. It's not worth traveling down just for the evening at Snetterton if I'm not on the Hethel day.

Andy

I emailed Paul Golding at LoT who said it was full but he'd add me to the reserve list, so there is one - and I'm on it. I guess I need to be ready for a mad dash at the last minute, just in case.

Andy

Fully booked now. 

Wrapping the primaries helped but the biggest help was to duct tape the pedal box cover which was letting a furnace draft into the footwell from the engine bay.

Ian, sounds like a very tricky job, small corroded bolt heads, awkward access, seized threads etc. etc. One of those jobs that requires a bit of touch and feel for whats happening to the bolt. As has already been said, will require penetrating oil, if you can get a clean hit directly onto the head of the bolt this can help break the thread seal, then working the bolt back and forth to get it unscrewed and of course.... lots of patience. I always pick the most awkward one to start with. Make sure whatever socket you can get to fit is on tight and square. If you have to drill out a sheared bolt you will have to be very (very) accurate. I'm not familiar with the kit you mention but the drill should at least be a cobalt one as they will be HT bolts I would have thought.

Good luck.

Hi Jonathan, it has worked surprisingly well actually, it’s survived a 500+ mile trip to the south coast and back to Derbyshire so I’d say it’s pretty permanent. I did pick up a spare from SM25T en route which I’ll fit and keep the repaired one as a spare.

I’ve taken these clearances with lead wire which is easier to measure with a micrometer.

I’ve impatiently glued the chip back in with clear gorilla (super) glue because I couldn’t wait for the morning to get some Crystal Araldite. I hope it’s going to be ok, I’ll see what it’s like in the morning.

Mmmm

That’ll look a bit naff, I just want a blob of the right stuff to plop inside to seal it up.

I was going to use some araldite but I’ve used it all up on something else so wanted to know if there was something I could pick up tomorrow to do a neater job.

Can anyone recommend a glass repair product (that they have used) to back fill this chip and plug the tiny hole through to the front of the lens. It’s only a temporary repair until I can source another lens. 

Thanks Andy

My 7 is an ex academy car which was setup for the track when I got it. When I first drove it I remember thinking "Bloomin heck, it's a bit of a hand full" I found I was having to drop my elbows to wedge them into the tunnel and door side to just keep the thing in a straight line at speed. I had owned a live axle 7 for ten years when I was a 'youth' and I just thought I don't remember it being this intensive to drive. I did a 500 mile round trip and the front tyres were worn out on the inner edge.

I got Dave Gemzoe to set it up for more road use and it transformed the road handling of the car -  it was so much better. 

It's now something like 1.5 deg -ve camber on the front and we left the shims in the de-dion rears as there was no undue tyre wear and from memory they gave about 2 deg -ve camber. Toe in was set to about 30 seconds (I think).

There is no "right" answer as driving styles differ but those figures work for me.

Andy

I also don't think it's necessary to change the oil but you could drain it and examine it for peace of mind and put it back in if you want. 

I'm 5' 7" with an S3 with lowered floors and and standard seats and I find the driving position OK. I have the 7" headlights and they sort of got in the way a bit but I fitted the lowered brackets and it's much better. I did look at raising the seats with some box section but didn't bother in the end.