7SW

I had the same issue.

Using Superglue did fix but for a few time.

I did the repair again with bi-component blue epoxy and reinforced the result with ultra-violet resin.

Since, non trouble.

I was using Sony WF-1000XM4, very good noice cancelling and ear protection.

Now I'm using the new XM5, more comfortable and same protection.

I can follow the navigation instruction, listen music (but I usually do not) and communicate with friends along the trip: tested on roads and highways without doors: friends can listen clearly my voice.

For communication, I'm using the Midland BTTalk application with friends.

Hi Andrew,

As always, an amazing work, thanks a lot.

Now I'll spend some time to analyze my modified maps following to these new information.

Can't imagine the needed time for these king of research.

Why shouldn't use the Mazda FL22 coolant specified for Mx-5 fitted with Duratec engine?

As Jonathan Kay writes, Some manufacturers are using Evans like coolants: Mazda is using a long life coolant, able to stand 200.000 km or 11 years for the MX5 NC (FL22 engine). This coolant can't be mixed with another one (like Evans).

Hello, here are two pics:

I did change on 2 years basis the foam for several years, nevers seen any issue with it, clear and flexible.

However I began a little bit concerned with the pan fixing threads, afraid of threads degradation.

I so decided to remove the foam and replace it with a Baffle Hellier (with a modified gasket).

Since, I did several long trips like Grandes Alpes, Morvan, ... I never had any issue with: no trouble with the oil pressure, nothing.

Hi Andrew,

Thanks for this information.

If I have well understood, if injectors are changed from black to blue, the Injector Flow Rate table has to be updated accordingly?

This is also my next schedule: creation of a fuel thank protection. I already made the plans and a template but without taking into account the diffuser part.

Some parts will have to be 3D printed for fixing the plate onto the chassis.

I'll check for the diffuser aspect.

I forgot:

Change from 15' wheel to 13*6/*8 wheels with ZZS

Wheel nut changed to aly ones.

I forgot:

Change from 15' wheel to 13*6/*8 wheels with ZZS

Wheel nut changed to aly ones.

Hello,

As Wrightpayne, not sure that all where little things...

Initially a 1.6K RoadSport.

- Installation of SuperSport kit

- 4.2.1 VHPD exhaust

- Replace plastic inlet manifold by the VVC one + TB 52mm aly.

- New Protech shock absorbers+spring.

- The most expansive rear brearings: during Grandes Alpes tour, one rear bearing failed.

   - Once removed, I discovered that there was a big ball in the middle of the car, I decided to unmount it for installing an ATB Quaife LSD.

   - Then found something near the middle; I remove it for changing the gearbox ratio (BGH  E8), the gearbox case has been replaced by an aly one

   - Then, as the engine an geearbox were out; change the flywheel for the lighwheited one.

- All lights converted into led.

- Installation of DRL with switchback led (front turn lights are both for DRL and turn lights)

- Installation of an oil cooler.

- Relocation on calorstat.

- Radtech cooler

- Installation of shiftlight into the dashboard for a better integration.

- Development and installation of an automatic switch light

- New brakes provided by Hispec: a nightmare: rear calipers were not plug and play. Rear disk were changed to GT6 ones.

- As handbrake system from Hispec is everything but efficient, I manufactured an hydraulic hand brake (just finished right now).

- Modification of ECU for passing to a dual maps feature with the help of Revila (great thanks for that).

- And the most important add-on was Muttley (Wacky Races), a 3D printed logo:

Next project: Passing to a full led rear light plate as from Justaddlightness.

All of these mods were made all along the 15 years I own my toy.

Thanks for your reply.

Strange, I can't see any self adjuster as it seems that the handbrake assembly is independant from the rest.

Hello,

I currently have troubles with the handbrake of the rear Hi-Spec calipers.

During the installation of these calipers, I could manage to keep the original Caterham handbrake cables:

This allowed me to keep the plastic tightening knob.

The handbrake pads are squeaking a lot, especially at low speed (people knows that I'm arriving...)

I did adjust the handbrakes according to the Hi-Spec instructions without avoiding the squeaks.

Furthermore, the efficiency  is very low: for getting the same behavior as the original handbrakes, I have to  firmly tighten the cable for getting the handbrake to work (pad then are touching a lot the disks).

For avoiding squeaks, I have to loosen the cable and so the handbrake is not functional.

Do you have any suggestion for fixing this issue?

Thanks for your help.

Fred.

Hi Andrew,

You already have my strange 1.6 EU3 SuperSport Map whihch is, in fact not a one.

Hope this could help you in your exotic maps findings ;)

KR,

Fred.

Hi,

I did switch from 15'' to 13'' (S3, 1600K). I had to review the ride height on all corners.

Following to this, I also did again a corner weight setup for being sure that everything was fine and then went to the garage for reviewing the geometry as some values were changed.

Hello,

The oil leaking generally come from the radial oil seal.

After having removed the drive flange you can extract the seal (little bit dificult to remove)

I did fix the same situation in march:

Here is the assembly of the diff:

29: locking nut

28: drive flange

27: oil seal.

Speakers into Cat are useless. As Writhpayne mention, intra BT speakers will help you in protect your hears and listen to music or navigation notification.

I currently use Jabra Acitive Elite 65T (next ones will be certainly Sony WH-1000xm4)

Globally speaking, audio systems into cabs are useless, we also have a Miata NC3 with Bose Sound system. I'm still asking why as above 90 mk/h nothing car be listen correctly. 

Hello Revilla,

Did you check ground connections from the engine? I did have this kind on behavior in the past, the ground connection located close to the rear exhaust camshaft seal was badly made.

Maybe a temp sender with erratic return of information or air leak somewhere on the intake manifold?

AS I can understand, You are planning to use an OBD Eleven dongle (VAG cars). Not sure that it will work.

Please check Revilla's posts about MEMS3 ECU mapping, the proposed dongle is working very well (I did use it) and its cost is about 10 pounds.

Hi,

Try first to check with an endoscope if the bell housing is contaminated with oil.

You can also make a little hole at the bottom of the bell housing for letting the oil leak through as described there:

http://clefde7.free.fr/Troucloche.htm

But, as SM25T wrote, oil make come from another place.

Rear camshaft seal may also leak; in this case oil is running along letting thinking that oil is coming from bell housing.

Hello,

Is it already available?

How to order?

Thanks,

Fred.

Hi Revilla,

Yes I did use it for discovering the MEMs features but no time for now to go deeper.

I did send you several maps issuing from continental ECUs.

Hello,

I did the swap last year; from the standard flywheel to a light weighted one. I went from 6.94Kg to 3.10Kg.

After swap, at the beginning, on road, the engine did stall very often at cross lights or little stops in towns. I did resolve this by increasing the engine idle speed to 1000 rpm by using the fantastic tool made by Revilla.

Since, I have no trouble; acceleration are very fast and idle speed is stable.

Hello,

Thanks for your help, I have sent the provided information to my friend; let's see.

Regarding the photos, I'll ask him to visit us on the Blat for making a presentation.