Rusty Nuts Garage

Thanks, yes, sounds sensible to me...

Thanks, yes, that seems more reasonable!

Thanks - It certainly does, I'll try 19 and take it for a run..

Cheers, will do some searching later today.  For vehicles less than 800kg, Nankang recommend min pressure of 23psi, so I'll use that  as a starting point.

Anyone using these - what pressures are you running at?

cheers

Keith

Both - I went through a huge deep puddle, water everywhere. On inspection, the alternator is corroded inside.  I was thinking of taping the underside of the bonnet vents, above the alternator, maybe six of them. Maybe devise some sort of splash guard also.

Anyone had any experience in protecting the alternator from water ingress? 

It's a pity we don't see videos on how to do stuff. In my other hobby, amateur radio, there are lots of instructional videos available. It would be great if some of the 'Seven' experts could lead the way. I have seen some vids by 'Cheesy' on the track stuff that were very useful.

Yep, changed my oil n filter on my SV at that time.  Usual stuff, smear of oil on the filter seal etc. I had trouble getting the factory fitted filter off, I think they employed a gorilla to put it on! I don't normally jack the car up (too lazy), just a shallow drip tray under the sump and as mentioned, go in underneath with a double extension/socket.  I always change the filter when changing the oil to be honest. Good luck.  

Black & Red.....they then come on with the sidelights

cheers

Keith

Car Builder Solutions £40 or so...

If it is a modern Seven, you can use the spare pair in thw rear offside wheel arch, no need to buy the sub loom. Add a couple of P clips an bingo!

DONE! (the lights are not as bright as it appears in the photo...some flare on the lens)

Thanks - I like the look of those!

2016 310 1.6 Sigma ti-vct

that's what I thought, 12v would be more useful maybe. I've emailed CC, it will be interesting to find out from the horses mouth!

not sure yet...still prototype stage...if not, three per side definitely will, these are very bright, no trouble to drill more holes.

5v between the pair.  voltage was with ignition on (didn't check with it off because i assumed same as my mate's). Not decided about switching independently to be honest, haven't given it much thought, because I'm only using two 9W white leds. (one either side of the seven behind the grill).

Haven't checked the colour, (not in your face red n black though).

cheers 

Keith

I'm looking for 12v to power my led DRLs. At the front of my mate's car, there are a pair near the nose cone, BUT, in my car, the same pair only read 5v for some reason (same with the engine running). Why would they be there, what would need 5v in the engine bay, any ideas?

Are there any more connectors available in the engine bay, or do I run a 12v pair from the fuse box?

Will buy a slack adjustable spanner............this will prepare the nut for the use of the correct tool..........Stilsons. (from Amazon)

Aaaah - ok, mine is also metric, I'll nip around to my local Cromwell Tools in the morning and check an open ended 21mm on it, thanks for that.

Excellent! Thanks a lot.

I want to buy a flared nut spanner to enable me to adjust the headlight position, is the nut 21mm or 22mm?

Well yes, a little bit!