Eriedor

Ah yes I missed that link. Mine is a 2001 so will need to upgrade my speedo it would seem. 

Hub disc bolts sounds like a simple solution. 

Found this guide which suggests blanking the existing sensor on the gearbox is a gearbox out job which is annoying. Interested to understand how I blank it too.

https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/guides/technical-guides/speedometers

Spoke to R&R, sounds like blanking and using a wheel speed sensor makes the most sense, I don't want to keep chasing down this leak.

Has anyone got experience doing that? Can I buy the blanking plate or does it need fabricating? Same for bracket for the wheel speed sensor?

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/senders/6707-rear-wheel-speed-sensor-kit-de-dion-cars.html

Ah yes that rings a bell, I think the previous owner installed powerflex bushes.

Will call them tomorrow, can't find them on their website

Ah that clears it up for me. I never fully under stood the whole 2-2-2, 4-0-0 or 0-4-0 but that now makes sense that it's from the perspective of the rear bush.

Nice find! I think they may be exactly what they are. Thanks

I recently rebuilt my front suspension, beforehand it had a couple extra plastic spacers on, I didn't reuse them as they were a bit crushed and I read that 2-2 washers was an appropriate setup. However, the bushing seems to be longer than the wishbone end so while the bushing is snugly held by the washers the wishbone and whole suspension assembly now moves slightly forward and back.

Should I just replace the plastic spacers, doesn't seem right on suspension. Or put some 19mm shim washers in to fill the gap?

Before (whilst dissassembling)

After (you can see the small gap on each side of the wishbone)

I'd love some notes on changing it, I'm quite the amateur! Irony is it never leaked before the rebuild and was loose, after rebuild the sensor is nice and tight and leaks!

Had my gearbox rebuilt over the summer, just returned to the car after it's sat for 2 months and found a ~8 inch oil stain under the gearbox sensor.

Is this just a matter of putting some silicon or other sealant around the sensor joint? Or something more serious to fix?

You can see a small drop forming, left, 2/3rds down below where the sensor meets the gearbox

I had a new rear panel fitted, so now I need to install the fasteners for the boot cover. I bought a new boot cover from SBFS but their fixings obviously only include the cover not the chassis side.

So what exactly do I need to buy? Is it durable dots? are they press studs? I have no idea about these fixings or how to install them. Caterham parts have these https://caterhamparts.co.uk/fittings/343-durable-dot-fastener-base.html but that looks like only part of what I need, I need something that can be rivitted or pressed to fix it to the rear panel??

It'd be great if I can find something locally or amazon so I don't have to pay £15 to have caterham deliver them to me.

Mine was clean of any sticky residue, however I just read the instructions for Helix plates and it says there is protective material that needs to be cleaned off before installation......s**t!!

Not friction plate, that was brand new too, but I also got a new clutch cover which I didn't clean with a solvent, I just took it from sealed bag and installed. Only just realised after reviewing the rebuild process for snags.

Semi-related question. I just remembered how when installing my new clutch plate I did not clean it with brake/carb cleaner. I just opened the sealed bag and installed with the new clutch plate. Is that likely to be a problem?

Thanks all for the comments. I'm 90% certain it was the thermostat -> block, I've cleaned it out now with a scotchbrite and quite a bit of persistence and it's so much better. Fingers crossed it holds when I refill in the morning. I got the thermostat housing brand new including the thermostat from dmgrs.co.uk so I assume the housing is sealed ok.

Disaster strikes my rebuild, filling with coolant and I discover a persistent leak from thermostat housing to block (k series).

I fit a new thermostat so it's clearly related. The question I have is how much of these black seal remnants should I be cleaning up before fit? (or has a previous person put sealant here??) There's some on the outer edge and inner edge, do I completely clean up both? It's quite hard to get it off so first time round I scrubbed it until it felt smoothish and then installed the new thermostat - to disastrous results....

I've got his one. Works great

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-52329-Clutch-Mate-Alignment/dp/B0001K9UZU

Ah ok, that makes me feel better. Mine has no cracks and the locator pin still has it's screen wash tube so shouldn't rattle.

Now to research CRB preload!

I purchased PGMs uprated clutch fork for dry sumped systems without realising it's designed for systems with the oil tank in the bellhousing where as my oil tower is external so I have a regular bell housing that doesn't fit.

Are there any other options? I just fitted an uprated clutch with a much firmer pressure plate and I worry for my forks longevity.

Hah! Front suspension took so much longer than planned, hoping to start tomorrow after I've done all the fuss of putting liquids back in!

Great discussion here. Mine is a K series and I think I'll do the pressure pre load by cranking with inertia switch off or immobiliser on as it's not a normal lay up, the engine has been drained of oil for the last 3 months and was standing for ~4 months prior to that. I'm not in a rush so would rather take the time to do it properly.

Ah of course. lol

Beagler are you saying don't crank the engine manually or don't just start it up without cranking engine manually?

Great ideas thanks.

Question - How do I see oil pressure "registered"?

In the next couple days I'll be starting my K Series which hasn't been started for 7 months and has been empty of fluids for ~3 months.

Any best practices I should follow before turning the key?

Yeahh the damage is only the chamfered edge on the front and some spots right at the back behind the bearing. Where the bearing sits is absolutely fine.

The photo is with the space sleeve out.

I have a QED bearing and spacer sleeve so hoping it goes in reasonably easy.

So I'm a bit of an amateur as you can see. The spigot bearing on my k series put up a hell of a fight when removing and the aftermath shows I've caused a bit of damage in the process. I'm specifically concerned about the 3 circled areas. If I sand down any burrs am I ok still? or is this a new crank? (lol)

High res link - https://photos.app.goo.gl/TfFAYFNAdt8rpsmm7

Mine is gold so no good?

To clarify, I put the RTV on the outer lip of the back of the seal (in red)?