griffchris

I know there's lots of threads on this but I'd like to try and clarify where to position the poppers in the half doors:

New to me factory-build 620R with chassis/skin poppers in situ.  I've bought some CC half doors which require you to position and fit the door poppers - the distance between the pre-fitted front scuttle and rear arch poppers is almost the same as the length of the half door, so it would be impossible to position the door popper through the metal strip at the top of the door, the poppers will have to go through the very extreme edges of the fabric, or possibly the fabric seam.  Is this Ok?  Otherwise I'd have to install a new rear arch popper a couple of centimetres further forward than the existing popper.

My old 420R had the half doors factory fitted, from memory I think the poppers probably did just go through the fabric edges, but old threads on here have suggested the poppers go through the metal strip?

Cheers

Chris

Price reduced to £750 per set

I can't recall exactly sorry, obviously the difference in hot and cold pressures will be greater for track than road use, maybe try 30 to 32 psi cold for road and recheck when warm.

I raced in the Academy in 2020 and we aimed for circa 34 psi hot.  Do not run them at 18 psi, it has a much taller sidewall than other Caterham tyres and will feel horrendous (if it actually stays on the rim).......

Listing edited to include info on posting/courier delivery

Thanks Steve, replied

Chris

NOW SOLD

For sale as I've sold my 310R and moving to a 620 with 8" rears.

Both sets bought new in 2020

Set 1 are 4 x Silver 13 x 6" Apollo wheels mounted with brand new unused Yokohama AO48 competition tyres (bought new mid 2022), these are non road legal, ideal for track days, mid-way between ZZS and ZZR in characteristics.  There are cosmetic marks to a couple of the wheel faces but they are structurally sound, see pics

Set 2 are 4 x Black diamond cut 13 x 6 Apollo wheels with lightly used Yokohama AO48 Competition tyres (bought new mid 2022).  Cosmetically the wheels are in good condition (see pics).  Tread depths are between 3.9mm and 4.2mm ( new tyre tread depth is 4.9mm).

I'm looking for £750 per set. I'm near Shrewsbury SY4 but might be able to discuss dropping off/meet half way depending on location.

Thanks

Chris

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Update:  the new Academy tyres and Caterham toolbox have sold.  The used Academy tyres are available for free for collection.  Open to offers on the other items.

Chris 

Received and replied

Replied to your DM

Update:  the new Academy tyres and Caterham toolbox have sold.  The used Academy tyres are available for free for collection.  Open to offers on the other items

I'm having a clear out of many unused or lightly used parts from my 2020 Academy car.  Prices are negotiable, particularly for "bulk buy" and local collection (Shrewsbury SY4), I would prefer not to post but will do so as a last resort, at cost.  I will see if I can work out how to add photos, otherwise I'm happy to DM them.

1. 4 x Brand new unused Academy 2020 tyres 185/70 R13 (6.6mm tread depth).  Due to reg changes they are no longer eligible for Academy racing but would be fine for road, trackday or testing use.  I will also throw in a set of part worn Academy 2020 tyres (3.5mm tread depth) for free (not for posting though).  £200

2. Full hood with zip-out rear window Academy S3, brand new, removed from the vehicle on day of delivery, never used again.  I believe this is meant for cars with a cage, see ref: 30V289A on caterham parts website.  £400

3. 2 x full doors/sidescreens, with mirrors - used but in reasonable condition.  £250

4. Red and orange narrow track front anti-roll bars, with brackets and "balls". £40 each

5. Caterham branded blue Draper tool box (no tools!), few scratches on lid otherwise very good condition £70 

Chris

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Thanks for the offer but they have to be Apollos I'm afraid.

Chris

As above, looking for 4, black or silver centres, preferably without tyres.

Thanks

Chris

A brief update: I tried Tom's spare oil pressure sender to no avail, so I've decided to trailer it to Kenricks to let them have a look, it needs it's 1st MOT soon anyway so will kill 2 birds with one stone.

Tom

PM received and replied, thanks

Chris

I appreciate 'flow' and 'pressure' are two different things, but the fact that a 'normal' amount of oil could be seen returning to the top of the dry sump tower has reassurred me!! - there is certainly oil circulating around the engine, but the absence of even a flicker on the dial (other than on switching on the ignition) has made me think the sender is the most likely culprit, I am assuming there would have to be some pressure generated to create the flow I have seen?.

Thanks, I have the standard R400/420R non-stack dash, the existing oil pressure sender is this one, If I replace I think I'd rather stick with a standard OEM part: 

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/senders/3896-oil-pressure-sender-including-sub-loom-s3sv-and-csr.html

Before I fork out £85 for a new one:

 - is there a way to confirm whether the existing sender is faulty? - I have a multimeter (but not much knowledge!)

 - How do I fit the new one? - is it just a case of draining the oil, unscrewing the existing one and screwing in the new one?  Do I need any sealant or PTFE tape etc?

Thanks again

Chris

Evening all.

I have a 420R (Duratec) with dry sump.  I haven't driven the car for a month or so, but all was well last time I did.  I'm in the midst of winter servicing, and today changed the oil and filter.  I thought I'd start the engine following the oil change to get the new oil circulated, it started fine and idled normally, but after a few seconds I noticed the oil pressure gauge was still reading zero.  A quick check revealed plenty of oil coming back into the top of the dry sump tank suggesting oil is circulating normally.  No wires obviously loose.  If I switch the ignition off and on, the needle on the dial flicks around (as do all the other dials) indicating there is power to the gauge.

To complicate matters a little further, I returned to the car a couple of hours later to find the battery flat.  I thought therefore that the gauge issue might have been one of those odd symptoms of a failing battery, but having charged the battery this afternoon (13.8v, 14.2v with alternator running) the oil gauge issue persists.

Am I right in thinking that the oil return to the dry sump tank means the zero oil pressure reading is definitely wrong?  Could this be an earthing issue (that might also explain the battery going flat) or should I be looking for something else?

Thanks very much

Chris 

Ditto, I have a Varley Li5 still going strong after 2 years in my 420R. Cut off switch used when not in use, always struggles to start when the battery and engine are cold, but once the battery has got some heat into it, after 3 or 4 goes at turning the engine over, it will start.

I've no hesitation in recommending one!

I've opted for the (very) early start option rather than camping.  Will be camping at Cadwell though!:)

I seem to recall a previous post asking about camping at the circuit, but can't find it now - is anyone camping? 

Any plans for a meal the night before? - I presume food won't be available at the circuit the night before if camping?

Thanks

Chris

Hi Mark, I'll take it off your hands for £70, I'm at Silverstone on Monday and will pay you then if that's OK?

Cheers

Chris (orange 420R)

I have been running a Lithium Varley Li5 for the last 18 months on a 420R and am very happy with it, it always starts (though not 1st time when cold!).  1.1kg vs 8kg for the Banner.  You will need a master cut-off switch as the immobiliser will drain it in around a week.

I commented on the other thread in Tech Talk, but for clarity:

"Interested!"

Chris

Interested

Chris