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Start my car today, help over coolant ratio


CtrMint

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I replaced the 10A reverse/brake fuse and pressed only the brake pedal, the lights worked and the fuse didn't blow.  Reverse light remained disconnected.

So it seems its related to the reverse circuit.

Weirdly the brake light brilliance is inverted to the rear lights, the one which was dimmer has a brighter brake light.

Wrt the fan, I believe its the green 30A in the earlier photo and yes it's fine, tested it with a multimeter.

 

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Assuming you have standard bulbs and not led rear lights, the brake/side light is one bulb with two filaments, one contact for each filament. It sounds like one of the bulbs has its brake filament contact touching the side light post, so if you take the bulb out, and turn it around so that the contacts reverse it should correct the problem.
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You were correct over what was wrong, although I couldn't see how to solve the issue on the light as you describe.  

I pulled the light out from the car, disconnecting the Econoseal plug.  I removed the yellow insert and swapped the Red and Green/Purple wires over in the plug.  This solved the issue.   

The rear brake lights are now equal on both sides and the most bright, using the same filament, the foremost I think.

The rear normal lights, sorry not sure on their official term are also now equal and using the same filament.

Thanks for that.....

Just need to sort the reverse light fusing issue and rad fan now.

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I took a picture, of the connections at the time, but didn't photograph how I connected.

If I recall it was the black connection at the back.  I thought it was the only plug that was compatible with the loom to be honest.

The tunnel top is pretty tight, do you know if you need to remove the seats, to get the tunnel top up?

reverseswitch.jpg.79748df333078b753a76fd6af9422278.jpg

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Why not open up the casings of the number plate and reverse lights and check the integrity of these units with your meter as a first step?  It would be interesting to clarify if you have fixed the differing intensity of the tail light / brake lights.  The number plate light will take its feed from one of these.

2 other things to consider.  From memory there is a small earth that has to be fixed to the fasteners of the RH rear wing below the boot floor. Also have you confirmed that the rear fog is working.

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Scratching off the powder coat around the screw hole receiving the eyelet fixed this.

The screws holding the bracket also had a good earth and powered the light too.
 

Jim,

I don't believe the intensity issue was a grounding issue, as I could see different filaments being used when the lights where on and the brake pedal pressed.

For example, the brake light on the left used one filament, whilst the brake on the right used the other, hence the differing intensity.   Swapping them around fixed so they used the same filament on both sides.  Now I know I'm far from knowledgeable, but surely that one is fixed??

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Quick status summary of the issues.

  • Radiator fan... still not working, been up to 107c according to OBDII coolant level.
  • Reverse light - blows fuse as soon as reverse is engaged, reverse light currently disconnected.
  • Rear light intensity - fixed, the incorrect filament in use on one light, brake and rear light transposed.
  • Number plate light - fixed, grounding issue on the bracket, powder coat removed. ( https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/led-rear-number-plate-light-not-working )

I'd like to get the reverse sorted now, will separate to another thread, 

Thanks again for all the support.

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