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4 Speed Ford Escort gearbox - front oil seal replacement


Ralph Morgan

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I've searched the Forum but can only find reference to changing the rear (propshaft) seal on this gearbox so does anyone have any advice on how to change the front seal? The 'box is out of the car, of course, but I can't even work out how to get the thrust bearing off the fork to have a look! There seems to be a cover plate behind that, held in place by 4 small hex head bolts, so it may be as simple as removing this (once the thrust bearing is out of the way of course) replacing the seal then refitting the cover plate but experience suggests that it's not going to be so simple*curse*

All advice greatfully received!

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Hi Ralph, yes the thrust bearing can be difficult to remove. 

Two thin strips of metal pushed down firmly between the fork and the bearing, whilst trying to wriggle it free has worked for me, several times in the past few months, there is a knack to it which can only be achieved by experience. 

The oil seal is in the clutch release bearing carrier (the tube the bearing slides on) the 4 screws are removed, invert the housing, remove old seal, clean the cavity of old sealant if there is any, install the new seal, I generally give the peripheral surface a ge-grease, and a smear of sealant, push the seal into place (open side towards gearbox) put a thin film of grease in the "V" of the seal, use a new gasket between the 'box and bearing carrier, and a smear of sealant, refit the carrier, making sure the oil return cavity is at the bottom (there may be a hole in the tube, this should be at the lower side,) fit the bolts, tighten evenly to 10lbs/ft. 

Have fun, regards,  Nigel. 

 

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Thanks Nigel, you've confirmed my thoughts and given me some good advice on the job.  Doesn't look too bad as long as I can get the thrust bearing off!  I'm OK on engines, but a bit of a "numpty" when it comes to gearboxes - my only experience of taking one apart is a off Morris 1100 about 35 years ago!

As well as the obvious oil leak, I notice that I can "waggle" the input shaft by a few mm either way, which doesn't seem right, and suggests that the input bearing is shot too.  Am I correct or is it normal for there to be some slack at the splined end?  It is of course supported in the flywheel bush when assembled, but I'm surprised that it's not completely rigid when off the engine. If I do need to replace the bearing, is that held by the same release bearing carrier that contains the oil seal, or is it fitted/removed from inside the 'box? If so, that would be a different scale of job altogether and something I probably wouldn't tackle myself.

Again, advice appreciated.  

Thanks, Ralph

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There always seems to be slack on the end of an unsupported input shaft. Although the movement at the shaft end is noticeable the wear/movement at the gearbox end is minimal. I wouldn't worry as long as the bearing in the box feels and sounds OK.

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Ralph, don't worry too much about the lateral shaft movement, the forward end is supported by the spigot bearing, in the flywheel, then the input shaft bearing and the "inner" needle roller, on the end of the mainshaft. 

If you need to replace the mainshaft needle bearing it will entail dismantling the gearbox, as the layshaft has to be "dropped"  or lowered out of the way, to allow the input shaft to be removed through the front of the gearbox.

Regards, Nigel. 

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Thanks again, Nigel.  There's been a noticeable "ticking" from the 'box at low steady speed in 1st (e.g. driving along our lane to the main road at the end) for some while that makes me think that a needle bearing is on the way out somewhere inside.  This could be the mainshaft bearing you refer to in you last post, perhaps?  Might that explain the slack in the  input shaft?  I think I need to get the front carrier tube off, and perhaps remove the top cover as well, to investigate.  Could then be a job for a specialist such as Steve Perks at SPC, who rebuilt the gearbox some 12 years ago while I was installing the Zetec to replace the old Crossflow.

Cheers,

Ralph

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