Many thanks to a team sparing partner of old for responding to my article in this months LF for help with the remote gearshift.

For those who have contacted me with requests for help here's what he said below:

"I also run a  type 2 gearbox and a trick I picked up from ex-hillclimb champion (in a 7 with this gearbox type) was to:

• Drill two holes in the flat metal linkages, about equidistant
• Install two long bolts (the same size as the existing bolts is ideal) with three nuts - one on the left hand link inner and one each on the right hand link (one inside and one outside)
• Nylocs are ideal as they don't come undone!
• You then have a mechanism whereby you can exactly gap the two links and also add rigidity.
• The links have plastic washers with steel sleeve inners, so replace those at the same time. Also check the rest of the linkage is doing what it should be!
• Use a rigid gearlever knob (I think the existing one looks OK but ali is better! I used to have one with a rubber insert and the gearchange was awful.
• Make sure the gearbox mounts are sound. Otherwise you're moving the gearbox rather than the mechanisms.
• While doing that check the reverse stop hasn't moved. This is on the chassis and stops the lever going over into reverse gear territory accidentally."