K Click (again)

[Chris__]

Hiya, had a lot of trouble with the dreaded click at Donington yesterday, got embarrassing rocking the car back and forth in gear 😬 So I've taken the starter off today and had a look, and it confirms that I have the starter not engaging with the flywheel correctly type of K click, so far as I can tell. See what you think, I've got some pics:

 

See here the indentations on flywheel teeth...

 

And similar here, on the starter gear teeth.

 

here is the starter mounting plate sort of in situ. My current thinking is that if I shave this down a little where the starter sits, and get the starter wheel to sit closer to the flywheel, it will engage fully with the flywheel, rather than doing what it's doing now, which appears to be catching with the first millimetre or so of the fly and getting caught.

 

Thoughts, laughter, derision, chaps, chappesses?

 

Thanks,

 

Chris.

 

Edited by - Chris__ on 19 Mar 2006 20:01:47

[mav]

Not sure about the starter positioning, but there seems to be a lot of oil around that I would not expect to find in that area...

[Chris__]

Er, yeah, did notice that! Think it might be the top plate where the dry sump tower meets the flywheel area leaking oil... Will come back with conclusions...

 

Edit- been and had a quick look. Yep, oil is weeping from the plate at the top. Looks worse than it is, just needs a bit of instant gasket in one particular place by the looks of it..

 

 

 

Edited by - Chris__ on 19 Mar 2006 20:36:11

[Myles]

I can't see much wrong with the starter teeth in that pic - maybe it isn't too clear. ISTR that both my std. starter and my Brise have slight angled faces at the end of the teeth. It's kind of what you'd expect - the teeth need a little help to engage...

 

ISWYM about the flyhwheel though.

 

Is that damage from the starter in normal operation - or have you been bouncing the starter off the flywheel with the engine running though?

 

 

 

 

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[tom7]

Chris,

I had this after re-fitting the engine and box last year. As there is a little bit of 'wiggle' (2-3mm) possible, just try re-fitting the starter pushing it as close to the engine block as you can.

Worked for me

[Chris__]

Ah. Understand re the angled teeth on the starter. It's never as clear cut as you want it to be is it!Doesn't explain the flywheel teeth only looking like that in the one place the starter gear engages though... think it signifies I've got the problem Angus and Tessa's 7 had from looking at the archives.. trouble is, they solved it by taking the engine out and replacing the flywheel ☹️

 

No bouncing the starter when it's running from me!

 

Edited by - Chris__ on 19 Mar 2006 20:55:37

[Chris__]

When you say "try re-fitting the starter pushing it as close to the engine block as you can" It's held in place by three bolts, so short of moving it towards the back of the car by shaving the plate off a little as I said, I don't think I can move it in any other plane Tom?

 

 

Edited by - Chris__ on 19 Mar 2006 20:58:14

[old captain slow]

Just had the engine out and changed in Will's car. It always had the K click. Found a really bad battery negative connection to the crankcase. Been cranking it for two days on and off trying to get the new engine started. No click and put it down to the bad connection now fixed. You might have a look at the negative battery lead connection.

 

Still haven't solved the starting problem though!

 

C7 CDW

[SLR No.77]

Chris - your 3rd image shows the starter spacing plate, as you describe it "sort of in situ". How sort of? If you fit it that way round you're going to definately have issue over the mating of the 2 gears. The raised locating rib on the spacer should be facing the bellhousing, not the starter I hope this is purely an error when doing the pictures?

 

Assuming it was originally fitted the correct way round, check that the block has been ground away to give enough clearance behind the starter - any pressure against the starter will pivot the starter cog towards the flywheel causing a tight engagement, possibly resulting in the wear you are experiencing. The oil issue does need attention though

 

Stu.

[Chris__]

😬 Error when doing the pics! Just bunged it on to give people an idea of what I wanted to do. Very good point about the block machining - it was a bugger to get the mounting plate out of there with the primary nearest to the starter still in place..

 

David - I don't think it's a connection problem, as wobbling it about in gear for a while always sorts it. Hoping it's something nicely simple and mechanical like this too - as I've not entered the world of vehicle electricals yet...

 

I will endeavour to sort the oil issue! Hope it is just weeping above the bellhousing in a couple of places..

 

Thanks as ever guys

 

Edited by - Chris__ on 19 Mar 2006 21:51:19

[tom7]

Chris,

 

Even though it is engaged on 3 bolts, there is still some 'wiggle' available.

Try almost doing the bolts up then shake the starter if you want to see how much it can be moved. As I said, I had exactly your problem last year.

[Normans_Ghost]

Have you checked the voltage at the solonoid. Anything less than 12v may indicate the problem is a cooked solonoid wire. I've seen several cars with <9v (one was 6v) at the solonoid and the wire inside the insulation so burnt it crumbled away when insulation cut away.

 

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