David M Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Hi, I have standard adjustable blistiens and have just moved back from 13inch to 15inch CR500 (it was a winter tyre and money thing) anyway I think I need to adjust the ride height as I imagine when Caterham fitted my 13inch wheels they would have adjusted them as the fronts have a lower profile than the rears. What is the standard method of measuring ride height, and is adjustment as simple as turning the collars on the blistiens eg. two turns on each side...... just need to know how they work as I have not adjusted them before and don't want to do anything stupid...... Cheers David GF04RCE.... every day is a Caterham day!!!! He heee!!... pictures here. Problem is every day seems to be a GT4 day too...!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinWoodham Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Best advice would be to get the car flat floored - ie adjust the ride height according to the four corner weights. Adjusting by counting turns on the shocks is ok but it's different front to rear - the rear shocks are near vertical whilst the fronts are inclined, so 1 turn at the back adjusts more than 1 turn at the front. Ride height is usually measured from the chassis rail behind the wishbone mounting at the front of the car, excluding any rivets etc. 130mm is low, 110mm is racecar low. Either are a bit low on the road if you've got a wet sump.....Rear is then adjusted according to how you like the car to handle - 10-15mm more than the front is common, makes the car pointy at the front without being too loose at the back. Net is that you stand a risk of b*ggering up the balance if you try to do it without corner scales though.... Martin Roadsports B with upgradeitis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbutnotslow Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 And of course we know about that when we tried it with scales the first time on my car dont we Martin Grant Taylor OBNS Motorsport 😬 183 BHP of Black and 'Stone Chip' excitement. 😬 here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinWoodham Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 and we were trying it with thescales...should have been easy....! Martin Roadsports B with upgradeitis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinWoodham Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Grant, nice photos....is your ecu a supersport one by any chance...? (and if so is it still for sale?!) Martin Roadsports B with upgradeitis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon.Rogers1 Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Don't waste your money on flat flooring if your not really kean and trackday or sprint the car. Simple to do yourself and you will if your carefull get VERY close to the scales anyway. On the road I doubt you would be able to tell any difference. Get someone of a similar weight to you to sit in the car (drivers side) or if you predominantly go 2 up sit them in the in both the seats. You need to simulate the rear end weight. Then so long as you have a "flat garage floor" measure down from the change in the lower chassis rail (square to round) this is set on my track day sprint car to around 110mm depends on the track. So set it to what your compfortable with. Lets say 130mm for arguments sake. (By the way I have a dry sump) (you get to choose the height) To do this you either undo or compress the front shocks until the same height is acheived. You will have to jack up the car each time to do this. Then once down bounce the car on its shocks a few times to get it to settle. Then as previously stated set the rear ride height approximately 10 -15 mm higher (remember - with someone in the car) The measuring point for the rear is just in front of the rear wing at the chassis rail. Its fun and also teaches you a great deal about how the car reacts to suspension changes. I have twice been on flat floors after setting up this way and each time have been within 5% on the weights. Which I am told is close enough. If you want to chat email me your number. Giving it some more Welly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sootysevener Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 ☹️David I agree with Simon with the following other comments 1. it'll take a while so I loaded the drivers seat with weight similar to my own - then its a one person job 2. make sure all your shocks are on the right settings side to side - back them right off and then count the clicks back on 3. Select your ride height - remember sump clearance is probably the defining factor - I adjusted mine to 75mm sump clearance then adjusted the ride height to that 4. make up a couple of templates - i used aluminium as card will not be reuseable unless you store it carefully for future checking. rake from back to front should be about 15mm 5. Make marks on the chassis rails at the front of the rear wheel arch and on the front rail close to the rear leg of the bottom wishbone - same position both sides. 6. Spanner away until its done Dont do what I did and go out afterwards to test it and get caught speeding! ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David M Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 Cheers guys.... I think I'll have a go myself....... I have to do something as its just not right at the moment....... David ps I'll especially try and avoid the speeding bit.....well getting caught anyway....!!!! GF04RCE.... every day is a Caterham day!!!! He heee!!... pictures here. Problem is every day seems to be a GT4 day too...!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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