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Acb10 camber / toe settings?


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Would anyone be kind enough to advise me what would be the best camber & toe setting on the front of the car (R400)for max grip/turn in on Acb10 for sprints, not too worried about it being horrible on the road!
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really comes down to what focus you want for your car


if it is mainly road driving with the odd track day as you say then a radial setup would be sensible, but you have to accept that you will get uneven wear on your x-plys, if you are getting cheapo second hand xply slicks / acb's then this won't cost you much, however if they are from new then it will be rather expensive. also for trackdays wher the last 1/10th is not that important you may be happy to switch from side to side in an attempt to get better life...


if it is mainly track driving with some road miles then vice-versa but again you will not get even wear on your radials...


Of course it is well known that cr500's (radials) will work quite well on a typical acb (xply) setup , and I have this setup on my car


cr500's for raod and wet trackdays/sprints

cheapo 2nd hand slicks for dry trackdays

sprint compound acb10's for sprints/hillclimbs



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Thank you David, having looked at this site why dont we sprinters use the A15 compound which it says is the tyre of choice for hillclimbs in very lightweight carsI wonder?
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are they road legal 🤔


maybe they are too soft *confused* remember even the most svelte caterham is lardy compared to some of the bike engined single seaters


also may only last 1 day so quite expensive


Edited by - robmar on 20 May 2005 09:53:10

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I enquired about softer compounds than A24 , I think Brodie uses the softest avaialble in 10 or 11 " width *eek*


I was told by Avon that as a result of the acb having a tread pattern the tyre would very quickly overheat with any compound softer than A24 on our cars . A slick made from softer compound would be Ok as the tread block wouldnt move around . I guess it would be like trying to use rain tyres in the dry *smile*


Doesnt matter anyway ........... Stunners are the future 😬 *thumbup* *thumbup*



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I have a slightly different view on set up - It is the circuit where you push to limit - not the road. I set up the car with 0 camber for crossplies at the front and I have shaved my ears to create PLUS .25 degree at the rear (I still get uneven wear on the inside of the slick / ACB 10) . I run Yoko 48s with this set up on the road and it works perfectly with no sign of uneven wear - but of course Im only running at 5/10ths on the road. However, at Cadwell 2 weeks ago I ran the 48s on track with the "upright" set up - effectively using them as intermediates as the rain was on and off. The car still performed fantastically - especially in the last dry session where I was giving Blackbird man a hard time - and he had slicks on!.


So in summary - set up for the track where you will push hard with crossply tyres, and compromise on the road with radials using the crossply setup .


I do agree about toe in on the road and toe out on the track though - its worth spending 2 minutes to make that change.




Zeeeeeeetec . . . . . .

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If anybody is interested,Im actually running 7"fronts and 8"rears! This is the main reason why I have been struggling to better last year's times so far this season.Dave must be oblivious to my "less than ACB 10" grip and more than normal slip-angles!Suppose I'd better spend the £1000 quid on radials and get wider rims to suit or accept the consequences?
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