150SV Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 Considering refurbing my watts linkage to try and eliminate knocking type noises. Don’t want to pay Caterham prices, so looking at alternatives. Rod ends seem easy enough, but what about the bushes and bell crank bush ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 It's the rod end bearings that rattle. I removed my Watts linkage and fitted radius arms in the end. Much more comfortable. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted May 28 Leadership Team Share Posted May 28 Likewise, I replaced the rod end bearings then next time I swapped to radius arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
150SV Posted May 28 Author Share Posted May 28 I don’t begin to even know what the differences are tbh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 McGill for spherical joints, avaialble in various grades Linky here 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnifeySpoony Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Those that changed back to radius arms, do you track the car, and what handling differences did you notice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 I run adjustable radius arms with sphericals joints both ends on the track, they may be a benefit to the watts linkage on bumpy tracks though I doubt it will be the 2 seconds a lap I saw quoted in another post - perhaps thats more for the CC PR team There are benefits form both set up and driver preference plays a significant part too, as doesset yp of the rest of the chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
150SV Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 Ok, so please explian about the radius arm thing - hiw it affects the car and the drive, what parts Id need, as it sounds like a better solution for me.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 The watts linkage has a radius arm mounted at the front of the rear wing and another mounted at the rear. They meet at a bell crank on the deDion tube, attached by rose bearings. These are what wear quickly and rattle. Conventional radius arms mount at the front only and fit to the same place on the deDion tube. You'll be abe to buy all the bits from Redline Components, email sales@redlinecomponents.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
150SV Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 Thanks. What affect does it have on the car tho ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 It was described to me by John the former mechanic at Redline as the 'comfort setting'. Perfect for our road touring. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watt's_linkage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Has anyone experimented with the two radius arm positions (R & S)? Any thoughts on the pros and cons? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 1 minute ago, StevehS3 said: Has anyone experimented with the two radius arm positions (R & S)? Any thoughts on the pros and cons? There’s some discussion in the archives. I’ll dig it out after tonight’s rehearsal. Jonathan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 2 hours ago, StevehS3 said: Has anyone experimented with the two radius arm positions (R & S)? Any thoughts on the pros and cons? Jonathan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Brilliant. Thank you Jonathan. I will have a good read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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