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Question about bleeding the clutch


prisoner7

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I'm building a 420 SV, 5 speed Mazda transition.

How do I know when the clutch is property bled?
I removed the battery, engine ECM and disconnected the wiring loom to gain better access to the valve
Removed the nipple, turns the bleed valve 1/2 a turn, hooked up hoses etc. I’m using a Sealy pump (holds 10 bar pressure well, no leaks).
I filled up the reservoir and engaged the pump, then slowed pushed the clutch in and out. Fluid drained, but it was not a constant air-bubble-free flow. I let the clutch out and then sealed the valve. See the pic to get a sense of how much fluid drained.
image.png.69d4cc5a7720e4b1a5c7b485556d4145.png
Should I pump fluid until its a solid stream?
My other question is this; when the system is under pressure (10 bar), the fluid drains to the bottom of the reservoir.

image.thumb.jpeg.5e9fce9af8eb1cf0d07ba5cbe2da7bc0.jpeg
But when I release the pressure and remove the Sealy, the fluid flows back and fills up the reservoir

image.thumb.jpeg.f32d39216a66d589fc336fad4e1365c6.jpegIs this normal? Am I doing this wrong?

Edited by prisoner7
forgot the pictures
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10 bar is rather a high pressure on the reservoir for bleeding, I normally use 1 bar. The technique sounds right, but the fluid flowing back into the reservoir is probably due to the high bleed pressure. The stream out the bleed nipple should be bubble free. If you are pressing the clutch during bleeding, I wouldn’t release it with the bleed nipple open, as air can be sucked in around the bleed nipple thread (same goes for when bleeding the brakes).

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20psi or 1.3 bar is more than enough to bleed both brakes & clutch. Using 10 bar or 145psi I am surprised that there was no system damage !! 

With such a small hydraulic system bleeding the clutch is best done (IMO) using the manual method & an assistant.  Should only take a few strokes of the pedal & one maybe two top ups of the reservoir.

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