patibbitts Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 Just wondering if the use of sump foam is recommended in K Series & how it's fitted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 It can last between oil changes ... or it has been known to get brittle and break up very rapidly. Many of us have removed it and punched a couple of extra oil drain holes in the big shelf on the sump gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 This photo shows the two extra holes in the sump gasket to allow oil to return to the sump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patibbitts Posted June 29, 2019 Author Share Posted June 29, 2019 Many thanks for the reply. Great picture! If I were going to install the foam, where is it positioned and how is it held in place, pls? Help much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 It goes above the aluminium plate held against the underside of the block. Our resident k-series guru, Dave Andrews, of DVA Power, would advise it is best removed. I removed mine when I bought the car 12 years ago ... original engine now happily on 99,600 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patibbitts Posted June 29, 2019 Author Share Posted June 29, 2019 Thanks for sticking with me on this one! - Is it just sandwiched/clamped between the plate and bottom of the oil ladder- effectively held with the 2nd. X 8mm bolts that bolt through the ladder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 It is just sandwiched above the plate. You are keen to fit it aren't you ? Try a search of this site for threads about sump foam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 Another voice here saying don't do it! Nobody has ever quite satisfactorily explained why the foam fails, sometimes it lasts for years, sometimes it breaks up in less than a year. And when it does it blocks the oil pickup and you lose your engine. Ian's (SM25T) engine is approaching 100K miles without it and no issues. Mine 43K likewise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 And another. I agree with posts #5 and #8 entirely.Comments (and gasket photo) here.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 Just to put it another way ..."Shall I bang this nail through my foot?""Don't bang a nail through your foot it will hurt!""Yes but if I did, where should I bang it?""No, don't do it.""Yes, but what kind of hammer should I use?"Thanks to Andrew for the inspiration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tazio Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 Pat, if you haven't quite got it 'DO NOT DO IT, LEAVE IT OUT' hope that helps to make it clear.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patibbitts Posted June 30, 2019 Author Share Posted June 30, 2019 Many thanks folks, seems I purchased the new foam in vain! Just to confirm, is anybody there able to supply any details regards the accurate positioning and size of the holes, to be made in the sump gasket? Is it ok to reuse the sump gasket? What are the torque settings for the sump bolts when reusing the sump gasket? (Unfortunately I don't have a 'user manual' for my K Series) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john milner Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 I removed mine and drilled the holes in the gasket. I had changed the foam a few times and it never had any sign of breaking up so keeping it is not certain of disaster. However I decided that it would be only a matter of time before my engine had the problem so I removed it.If you do change the foam it is not a difficult job and the only awkward part is trying to hold everything together while bolting up.http://www.alcester-racing-sevens.com/sump_removal.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 ...is anybody there able to supply any details regards the accurate positioning and size of the holes, to be made in the sump gasket?See post #7 in this thread. Holes are 10mm.Is it ok to reuse the sump gasket?Yes, unless it's damaged in any way. But do check that the mating surfaces are really clean.What are the torque settings for the sump bolts...10Nm for the vertical bolts (in other words, just nip them up). 25Nm for the two horizontal bolts into the rear of the sump.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patibbitts Posted June 30, 2019 Author Share Posted June 30, 2019 Thanks for the replies gents, very much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 John, I've always gone wit the torques the Rover specified for their aluminium sump which were 25Nm for the shorter bolts and 30Nm for the longer ones.10Nm or just a nip sounds very loose for M8 high tensile to me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 That's interesting, Andrew. You could well be right.I was quoting from the Haynes Rover 214/414 manual (for a steel sump, I imagine):When I had my K, I was always wary of over-tightening bolts in a relatively short hole in aluminium. Mind you, my K was an EU2. Is the EU3 different?JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 A thought....Does the Rover alloy sump use a gasket or sealant? AFAIK, the steel sump always uses a gasket. The CC alloy sump seems to be a bit of a hybrid as it uses a gasket too.And another one...IIRC, the standard Rover sump bolts (M6 on earlier engines, else M8) are Patchloks, so would they require a lower torque?JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 I don't think EU2 and EU3 differ. And yes if they were o my M6 then I wouldn't go much over 10Nm. I've never had a problem going to 25Nm and I'm sure the casting can take it if Rover recommend that with an alloy sump. Never had anything strip and not seen damage to the gasket. I don't think I've actually seen a recommendation from Caterham for the hybrid alloy sump / gasket as you say, but the gasket is after all rubberised steel rather than a soft rubber afair. PS: Considering how nervous it makes me torqueing a 14mm spark plug thread to 25Nm I can see why you would worry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpy the 7th Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 Just DON'T fit the foam! and you never have to take the sump off again,........63k miles and counting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted July 3, 2019 Share Posted July 3, 2019 Erhm...I've had mine off a few times in spite of having no foam installed.Stripped thread in drain plug after some 100 oil changes etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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