glasgow Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Since I bought the car 5 years ago, one of the cap-head bolts that attaches the bellhousing to the back of the sump casing is sheared off. It never gave me a problem and there is no leak. But I now need to remove the sump casing in order to replace the foam baffle.A) I take it there is no way to remove the sump pan without removing these two bolts, right?B) Is using a drill here not a good idea? any other suggestions to remove this sheared off bolt please?C) after dealing with the bolt, anyone please could provide a part number/web link for a new bolt (I understand the bolt is M10X55mm cap-head with a spring washer)RegardsAhmed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Ahmed, I think you would be best getting the engine and gearbox out of the car as a unit, then remove the gearbox and bell housing, hopefully the broken bolt will not snag on the b/h.You then have good access to the bolt, be sure to use plenty of Plusgas or better Wurth Rostoff, there is probably some dissimilar metal corrosion taken place. Cap head screws are extremely hard, you won't make any impression on it with a regular Cr-Vn drill, we use Cobalt drills at work when needing to remove broken screws. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glasgow Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 I think you would be best getting the engine and gearbox out of the carErrmm, I would like to avoid this Nigel if I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titanium7 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 If it's sheared below the head you may find the sump will come off by sliding it forward when all the othe bolts are removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Second that. If no head, you should be able to slide the sump forwards once all the others are out. May need to tap it on the sides with a soft mallet to unstick the grip to the gasket. Watch out for the oil that will be left on the shelf of the sump gasket ... even when sump drained. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glasgow Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 I think the sump may not be easily slided forward as it will hit in the plate that retain the foam baffle. Here is a pic from Geoff's article on LowFlying: Also, does the hole in the bellhousing has no tread so the bolt will slide though it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 You may be right ... but it wouldn't have to slide far for the bolt to clear the flange in the bell housing. You have to try. On the second point .... there is no thread in the bell housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 It is astonishing that someone managed to shear the head off an M10 cap head bolt, rather than strip the thread in the aluminium sump ?? Have you tried unscrewing the remains of the bolt by tapping the end of it anticlockwise gently with a centrepunch and hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glasgow Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Is there a way of creating a "groove" in the remaining body of the bolt so a flat screw driver can be used. I feel this is now above my skills so I may end up taking the car to a local mechanic but looking for ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 You don't have much to lose (except a bit of oil mess) by draining the oil, undoing all the sump bolts and then seeing what you can do. If it doesn't come out, then you can just put it all back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 How about loosening the other bell housing bolts as well. If you leave them in place and pull the engine away from the bell housing it might just allow enough room to get the sump off.Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Can you try undoing all the bellhousing bolts and shifting the engine forwards enough so that the broken bolt clears the sump? Remove the sump and then it's easier to deal with on the bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_ASH Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 As above its amazing someone managed to shear the head off one of those bolts.All the above are good suggestions, pity it's not able to slide forwards, what about using a Dremel to slot the visible end and then screwdrivering it out or drilling the bolt and using an easy-out, although neither would be easy as the bolt will be hard metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glasgow Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Thank you all. I hope one of the above suggestions will work. Now I need to get a replacement bolt. Anyone please could provide a part number/web link for a new bolt (I think it is M10X55mm cap-head with a spring washer).Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 You're right; the assembly guide says M10x55mm cap head. It doesn't mention a spring washer though, and I don't think mine had them. That doesn't mean that they should have spring washers of course!http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=2300 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Just phone Mick at Redline Components ...... don't worry about a part number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_ASH Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Might be worth replacing both of them once/while you have them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glasgow Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Thank you Mankee for the link... The photo on CC website doesn't look like it is made from hardeneded steel. May be the bolt is intended not to be that way in order not to strip the tread in the aluminium sump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 I would have thought it was longer than 55mm .... but maybe just seems that way from memory ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glasgow Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Just another thought in case it is difficult to take the bolt out.If using a drill and the bolt is rotated clockwise (ie getting screwed more into the sump until it falls off inside the sump pan), what could be damaged while the bolt is travelling into the sump? I can see the oil pick up and the strainer are away from the bolt path. The only thing I can think off being damaged is the tray that holds the foam? Easy replacable item - Am I correct? Any risk of anything else damaged? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 You're right; the assembly guide says M10x55mm cap head. It doesn't mention a spring washer though, and I don't think mine had them. That doesn't mean that they should have spring washers of course!No spring washers (or any other washers) to be used under these cap head bolts, the assembly guide is correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Can you try undoing all the bellhousing bolts and shifting the engine forwards enough so that the broken bolt clears the sump? Remove the sump and then it's easier to deal with on the bench.Good idea Mankee, this is what I'd try, you only need to separate them half an inch - maybe not even fully undo the bellhousing bolts so that they don't fully come apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 No .... it is a blind hole in the sump. You can't screw bolt clockwise into sump pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mechanical Moz Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Even if the sump won't come forward far enough for the bolt to come fully out of the hole in the bell housing it should move far enough to get a hacksaw blade in and cut through it. I'd try just dropping the sump first though. I'd also check the other engine to bell housing bolts, the head could have snapped off through bending rather than twisting if there is movement at the joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 I'd also check the other engine to bell housing boltsGood advice. Could the original snap have been caused by something (like a cat's-eye) clouting the bellhousing? Is there any damage apparent?If you can get the sump pan far enough forward (say, 10-15mm) to get a pair of grips in the gap, you might be able to unscrew the bolt that way.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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