revilla Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 I am just about to replace the head gasket on my K 1.8 VVC. Assuming the liner heights all measure up nicely when I get it apart I intend to use the genuine Payen BW5750 MLS gasket. Can anyone tell me how important it is to use the replacement uprated oil rail with this gasket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 I had a conversation with the engineer responsible for the oil rail. Over the course of the conversation he mentioned that the best of the old type were as good as the worst of the new , so the difference in stiffness imported to the block was minimal. He said that there was a much greater improvement in block stability when the chamfers were deleted from the bottom of the bolt holes. The idea was to package the MLS gasket with a re-engineered oil rail as a bolt in solution for gasket failure to appease Ford who were not best pleased at the HG failure rate in Freelanders. I would say that for a cooking engine it isn't necessary. I have a substantial number of 200BHP+ engines with stock oil rails, including one at over 280BHP owned by an ex power train engineer, he didn't believe it necessary either. That said, it won't do any harm, if you are running a dry sump you may experience some clearance problems that necessitate some fettling of the inside of the sump where it blanks off the oil pickup and where the studs/nuts protrude from the rail. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 Oily, Thanks so much for that - to be honest when I posted the question I was rather hoping you would come in at some point! My engine is seeping water, especially when warm, from both corners of the head block joint on the exhaust side. I've checked very carefully and it isn't coming from the water rail gasket, flange or anywhere along the rail (which are all absolutely clean and dry and tissue paper wrapped around them remains clean and dry as the water oozes out onto the top of the block) and there's no sign of leakage around the water pump at the front, so I'm pretty sure it's a gasket failure between the waterways and the outside edge. There are no signs of oil in the water or water in the oil, no pressurising of the water and no sign of overheating, so I'm hoping I've caught it early and a simple gasket change will be all it needs. It's a pretty much stock VVC 160, so I think I will leave the bottom end alone. Thanks for the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mucus72 Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 Read your posts Andrew. If you want a spanner hand to help then for the price of a cup of tea, I'm your man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 Thanks Marcus! Did you have a good holiday? Yeah while you were gone my car has been taken poorly, keeps weeing on the garage floor, looks like the dreaded HGF has claimed me for its next victim! I think I'll be doing it in bits and pieces as time is rarely my own with the kids, but if there are bits where I get stuck or need a spare pair of hands (or some extra brute force) I'll give you a shout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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