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High Oil Pressure - DS VX


finmac

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Well the monster lives and breathes again!

 

After 4 months off the road including many and varied jobs, biggest being engine out to repair oil leak, my car finally hit the road again this afternoon!!

 

Pleased that she seems to be running fine apart from Oil Pressure reading high - around 6 Bar on guage when cold, issue being it didnt drop as I would have expected when I had warmed the car up. Hot engine still reading 4 bar ish on idle,rising to 5+ at high revs.

 

Car has an electronic VDO guage.

 

Guess I am concerned that I have done something! Work done includes:

 

Engine out, removed sump, relaced internal O rings, replaced Guaze DS filter elements, refitted both DS pick up pipes, oil change/new filter, new crank oil seal, refilled with 4.5litres Mobil 1.

 

Or is it likely a sender issue?

 

Thoughts appreciated please?

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Could be a stuck pressure relief valve, they're known for it.

 

Re your other post about a mech guage it's a fairly easy intall, you'' nee to buy an adapter to take you from the block (M14) to the pipe for the gauge, Think will albe able to help you

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Could well be the oil pressure gauge but if it is not erratic it could also be the oil pressure relief valve. As you sit in the car it is on the left lower side of the oil pump, just above the sump line. V large nut going in towards the crank.

 

Undo the nut and remove carefully, there is a spring behind it and a plunger at the end of the hole. Remove spring and plunger and check for scoring/ bures and clean up with some WD-40 and 1500 grit wet and dry. Once nice and smooth and clean re-install. This can be a pain as you need to compress the spring and do the nut up. Don't go mad with the wet and dry, you don't want to reduce the size, or chnge the shape just clean the surface up. Won't hurt and will knock one item of the list of possible causes.

 

Guy

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Quoting Mavic82: 
Could well be the oil pressure gauge but if it is not erratic it could also be the oil pressure relief valve. As you sit in the car it is on the left lower side of the oil pump, just above the sump line. V large nut going in towards the crank.

 

Undo the nut and remove carefully, there is a spring behind it and a plunger at the end of the hole. Remove spring and plunger and check for scoring/ bures and clean up with some WD-40 and 1500 grit wet and dry. Once nice and smooth and clean re-install. This can be a pain as you need to compress the spring and do the nut up. Don't go mad with the wet and dry, you don't want to reduce the size, or chnge the shape just clean the surface up. Won't hurt and will knock one item of the list of possible causes.

 

Guy

 

Quite a lot of oil will come out when you do this *idea* *smile*

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Yes had wondered about the relief, maybe disturbed etc when removing/refitting engine?

 

Dont want to lose the fresh Mobil 1 in the car when I take it out though!,Any suggestions aside from getting someone to stick their finger in the hole?

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Quoting Mavic82: 
Could well be the oil pressure gauge but if it is not erratic it could also be the oil pressure relief valve. As you sit in the car it is on the left lower side of the oil pump, just above the sump line. V large nut going in towards the crank.

 

Undo the nut and remove carefully, there is a spring behind it and a plunger at the end of the hole. Remove spring and plunger and check for scoring/ bures and clean up with some WD-40 and 1500 grit wet and dry. Once nice and smooth and clean re-install. This can be a pain as you need to compress the spring and do the nut up. Don't go mad with the wet and dry, you don't want to reduce the size, or chnge the shape just clean the surface up. Won't hurt and will knock one item of the list of possible causes.

 

Guy

 

Guy, thanks for the write up, is it best to whip the alternator off to do the job?

 

Roger

 

"The whole engine won't drain down, you'll just loose a cupfull" ....

 

Thanks - very reassuring.

 

 

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No need to take the alternator out, once you have done it once it is easy. Just jack the front up and support and you can get at it from underneath. As Roger says not much oil will come out. Tip for putting it back in is to put some wadding in the bottom of the socket to hold the cap near the top of the socket hex. This means you can push on the socket to compress the spring and turn it at the same time to start the thread.

 

Did it 6 times in an hour on the rolling road to tune my oil pressure (packing the spring with washers to raise the pressure a tad). That got a bit repetative..

 

However for the oil pressure to stay high most of the time would suggest, if it is the releif valve, that it is sticking quite a bit. You may need to put your finger in the hole to retrive the plunger (resembles the shape of an open bean can about 15mm long 10mm in diameter.

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